Ken Burns loves to talk. The legendary filmmaker admits he can get long-winded, which makes sense considering that he creates 10-part series lasting 18 hours. However, one topic he has not discussed extensively is his restaurant.
For nearly 18 years, he has co-owned the Restaurant at Burdick’s, an inviting establishment serving French and American cuisine in Walpole, New Hampshire.
As Burns reveals, “Somebody asked me recently ‘Why don’t you just say something?’ and I thought, ‘Who cares?’ I mean, it’s not really a labor of love because the only thing I do is lift my fork.”
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Burns considers himself a silent partner, not involved in daily operations, yet frequenting the restaurant up to six or seven times a week.
In 1979, Burns settled into an 1820s farmhouse in Walpole to achieve the “magnificent isolation” he desired for work. This tranquil setting has supported the creation of all his documentaries with Florentine Films, while also serving as the place where he raised his daughters and opened his French-inspired bistro.
In the mid-1980s, Burns seized an opportunity when a grocery store’s relocation left a vacancy in Walpole’s town center. Teaming up with chocolatier Larry Burdick, famous for L.A. Burdick’s chocolate shop, they opened the restaurant in 2001.
“The whole impetus for me was not to invest in a restaurant, not to own a restaurant, but to do a community service by filling this empty hole,” Burns explains.
Walpole, with a population of under 4,000, is small yet idyllic. The town center is vibrant, featuring a post office, clinic, real estate firm, and a chocolate cafe. Today, the Restaurant at Burdick’s serves as an anchor, regardless of Burns keeping a low profile as a co-owner.
“In the midst of all that Normal Rockwell or Currier and Ives, there exists a legitimate restaurant with complex flavors and wonderful offerings,” Burns comments.
The Restaurant at Burdick’s features a charming, whitewashed antique clapboard design overlooking a main thoroughfare in Walpole. Inside, it boasts a cozy atmosphere accentuated by twinkling lights and local artwork on the walls. As a fine dining option in southern New Hampshire, it offers a seasonal, locally sourced menu with staple dishes such as oven-roasted chicken and seared duck breast. An extensive wine list and a robust event calendar attract both locals and tourists.
“If you go to downtown Walpole, it’s sometimes hard to find parking. This isn’t solely due to the restaurant; it’s what the restaurant has brought into the community,” Burns notes.
In addition to the restaurant, Burns and Burdick opened a specialty market named Walpole Grocery, stocking local meats, cheeses, breads, as well as wine and organic produce.
While serving the community, Walpole Grocery and the Restaurant at Burdick’s also have significance for Ken. During intense editing periods, he often relies on the restaurant’s Ken’s Salad, made of Bibb lettuce, grilled salmon, avocado, shaved parmesan, and lemon vinaigrette, which he personally created. Originally ordered off-menu, it made its way onto the lunch menu and has remained a fan favorite.
“The running joke I have with Ken is, ‘How often do you check your mercury levels?’ Because he loves salmon,” says Tom Goins, partner and general manager at the Restaurant at Burdick’s.
Goins points out Burns’ prudent approach to celebrity. Although he has hosted a few talks at the restaurant and allowed his Emmy awards to be displayed, he has refrained from using his fame to secure perks.
“It’s one of the great pleasures of my life to be involved in this,” Burns states. “If people come in and I’m in town, there’s a strong chance I’ll be there for lunch or dinner.”
Burns elaborates that he has played “a very small part in creating a truly wonderful establishment,” and he hopes patrons will continue to enjoy their meals, connect with friends, and engage in meaningful conversations.
“Where I live is central to who I am as a person,” Burns declares. “At the heart of that is Burdick’s.”