Experience Latvia: Culture, History, and Nature

The last time I was in Latvia, you could just about still hear the swish of the recently dismantled Iron Curtain. In 1994, I was living in St Petersburg. Riga was a 12-hour train journey west. I was on vacation with a bombastic Russian-speaking Ukrainian friend, travelling first to Latvia’s then sleepy capital, then onwards to Jurmala, the country’s most touristy and most Russian-dominated seaside destination. He acted as if he owned the place, in a strict “I’m only here for the beer” sense. This was when Russian speakers referred to this region as Pribaltika—an ideologically charged Soviet term encompassing all the Baltic countries—implying that it was a region and not three separate countries (Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia). Even back then, when I was out and about with my friend, proclaiming loudly in Russian about how cheap everything was, people were wary of us. You could sense this was a place desperate to follow its own path, in the opposite direction of any kind of colonizing influence.

Thirty years on, and well into a new century, I resolved to experience Latvia in its own right—free, wild, self-determining—with my own eyes, open to the place for the first time and without thinking of it as an adjunct to that lost country, “the former Soviet Union.” It turns out what Latvians really want is empathy and a sense of appreciation of their history. Within a few hours of arriving in Riga, half a dozen completely unconnected people spontaneously—and slightly impatiently—asked me: “Have you been to the Museum of Occupation yet?” This is not a usual visitor attraction that would normally top my list. However, I was intrigued. They were right: you cannot understand this country without knowing what happened here within living memory.

The Museum of Occupation tells the story behind the suspicion and exhaustion I saw on people’s faces in 1994. The pain and paralysis of occupation is comprehensively documented: first came the Soviets in the 1940s, then the Nazis, then the Soviets again. Thousands of lovingly curated photographs, letters, and videos depict everything the Latvians did to maintain a sense of autonomy in the face of cultural annihilation. A heartbreaking glass display case shows items buried in the 1940s in a family’s garden and only dug back up again in 2014: a handbag, hand-embroidered mittens, and a rusty colander.

Rich History and Cultural Insights

After I emerged, weeping and reeling somewhat from the Museum of Occupation, I headed for the bourgeois comforts of the Riga Art Nouveau Centre. This remarkable venue houses painstakingly reconstructed furnished rooms from the early 1900s, explaining how the beginning of the 20th century became a false dawn for Latvia’s independence movement. This museum is situated in the city’s most delightful neighborhood, home to some of the finest examples of art nouveau architecture in the world. Nearby, you will find old-fashioned teashops, antique stores, and trendy cocktail lounges.

Zigita Lavrinovicha runs a shop across from the Art Nouveau Centre called Otto Racens, named after her grandfather. The shop is packed with vintage crockery and glassware, beautiful hand-stitched Latvian mittens, and her avant-garde fashion collection. She spent years as a wardrobe mistress at the Latvian National Opera, stating, “I’ve seen it all over the years—Russians, Soviets, War, Peace, War again. I just want to invite people into a corner of the world where you can still find a little beauty.”

This kind of encounter is typical in Latvia. Most people speak English, and they are thrilled to share their excitement about being part of the EU since 2004 and tell you everything they love about their country. To immerse yourself in Latvia is to discover something ancient and profound, long-forgotten elsewhere in Europe. The Gothic Old Town feels reminiscent of Hamburg or Amsterdam. Step out of this quarter and you enter an art nouveau wonderland. Just half an hour outside the capital, you can explore acres of unspoiled forest.

Countryside Adventures

The next day, we head into the countryside to meet Latvia’s most famous actor, Juris Zagars, director of the concert hall at Cesis. This quaint town has cobbled streets, one of the oldest medieval castles in Latvia, and a population of just 15,000. Yet its concert hall is packed every Saturday night. Cesis is typical of rural Latvia: quietly confident and full of pleasant surprises.

Zagars has directed John Malkovich in a theater production here, and the Hollywood star is already planning a return visit, “He loves Latvia because no one bothers him for selfies here,” Zagars says. Latvians are too cultured for that. A few minutes’ walk from Kest—where the five-course tasting menu includes an extraordinary elderflower and rhubarb martini—lies the Global Center for Latvian Art. It displays more than eight decades worth of Latvian diaspora art, featuring works by celebrated Latvian expressionist painters.

Tradition and Community Engagement

Evidence of Latvia’s desire for identity, meaning, and authenticity is everywhere, along with traditional pagan symbols visible on flags, doors, and roofs. Near Cesis, we stop at Maizes Maja—the House of Bread—a traditional farmhouse hosting breadmaking workshops. Today’s class is run by Kristina Sprudža, who, although dressed in traditional costume and bursting into song about Latvian independence, also reveals a love for K-pop.

Their mother talks movingly about historical events, narrating a week in 1944 when her great-grandmother had to abandon her kitchen while soldiers passed through: “The dough was made in German times. And the bread was baked in Russian times.” This sentiment resonates throughout Latvia—an intrinsic connection to land and heritage, with a strong focus on sustainability and community engagement.

Delve into Local Delicacies

Nearby artisan businesses open their doors to passersby, many run by young parents looking for a quieter life. Ervins Labanovskis runs an organic birch-sap business, using traditional family recipes. The birch sap is gaining popularity, along with other local delicacies like rhubarb sparkling wine, featured prominently in local markets.

Conclusion

Whether exploring the vibrant city of Riga with its rich art nouveau heritage or venturing into the serene Latvian countryside filled with artistic traditions and culinary delights, Latvia offers a uniquely profound experience. Visitors are welcome to uncover the fascinating culture while enjoying the stunning landscapes and warm hospitality.

Where to Stay and Eat in Latvia

Dome, Riga

On a side street in Riga’s Old Town, the Dome Hotel offers a unique blend of history and modernity, perfect for travelers seeking both comfort and culture.

Grand Poet Hotel, Riga

Close to the Freedom Monument, the Grand Poet Hotel impresses with its vibrant interiors and top-notch amenities, ideal for visitors wishing to explore Riga.

Tails, Riga

At Tails, enjoy fresh seafood dishes in a strikingly clean setting, with innovative options like the Pleasecake dessert.

Kest, Cesis

In Cesis, Kest offers a tasting menu curated by chef Māris Jansons, featuring unique local ingredients and flavors, surrounded by the charm of the ancient town.