Ultimate Guide to Planning Your Limousin, France Adventure

Limousin, France: An Enchanting Destination

Limousin, France, is an utterly enchanting side of France that tourists rarely see.

I arrived in Limousin in a rental car, which felt wrong: it should surely have been a stretch limo. There are several theories as to how a motorized symbol of wealth and luxury came to be named for a rural part of central France that, while beautiful, is almost entirely devoid of opulence. However, each theory has its charm. One suggests that the limousine was named in honor of native son Charles Jeantaud, the late-19th-century inventor of an early form of the motorcar.

Regardless of the origin of the name, it’s amusing to think that what was once the mode of transportation for celebrities and royalty is named for a region best known for crockery and cows.

A couple of years ago, I sensed that Limousin had more to offer beyond exquisite porcelain and delicious meat (Limousin veal is famous throughout France). During a cross-country trip, I briefly stopped in Limoges, the region’s capital. I had heard of its glorious train station and decided to check it out. It was amazing: a palace in pale stone adorned with a giant dome decorated with stained glass by Limousin’s master glass craftsman, Francis Chigot. Beneath that grand dome loomed a quartet of sculpted women, each embodying a region of France. The figure of Le Limousin held a vase representing Limoges’ famous porcelain in one hand and reached toward a canopy of wheat and chestnuts with the other. The station was a unique experience compared to the provincial “norm,” and as I marveled at its splendor, it became clear that there was much more to discover in this hidden gem.

Indeed, many have underestimated Limousin. One could even say that since World War I, when a group of ineffective army leaders were sent to Limoges, someone who has been laid off or fired is now referred to in French as limogé. However, overlooked areas often preserve their unique charms better than those frequented by fashionable Parisians. Furthermore, the intrigue behind my visit was heightened by the fact that Limousin is now officially designated as extinct, annulled in 2016 by French bureaucracy, but still recognized for its contributions.

With no luxurious vehicle at my disposal, I embarked on my exploration of Limousin with my husband, Craig, acting as both chauffeur and photographer. We were met with an untamed wilderness so beautiful that, as I learned, 19th-century painters would risk highway robbery to visit. We discovered an ancient abbey filled with history and heroism, lively food markets, and excellent restaurants featuring local produce that transcends the renowned Limousin veal.

Our journey took us to Domaine des Étangs via Angoulême, a city defined by its picturesque gray-white stone architecture. The Domaine, a 13th-century château surrounded by rich pastures, is owned by the Primat family, who made their fortune in oil. Its recent addition to the Auberge Resorts Collection has breathed new life into this stunning estate.

The 2,500-acre property features ponds (the eponymous étangs), with rowboats available for guests to enjoy. The spa is housed in a beautifully restored water mill, complete with indoor and outdoor pools and a series of thermal baths. Even the lakeside tennis court appears to float above the water, though it presented some challenges when balls sank out of reach. Consequently, we set off to explore the art gallery housed in the converted dairy. Owner Garance Primat is a true art enthusiast, with sculptures adorning the grounds, including Vénus de l’Étang by Chinese artist Wang Keping and Ugo Rondinone’s evocative Sun, crafted from tree branches cast in bronze.

We wandered through the château, sampled dishes featuring local ingredients, and enjoyed the serene ambiance. Our gastronomic adventures continued with a drive through the lush hills, escorted by a picturesque herd of Limousin cows, while tales from the general manager Vincenzo Iaconis colored our experience. His humorous declaration of going vegetarian because of the beauty surrounding us only added to our journey.

As we continued our explorations, we ventured through beautiful landscapes, startlingly picturesque towns, and vibrant markets teeming with local produce. Brive-la-Gaillarde was a highlight, celebrated for both its culinary history and lively atmosphere. The market was alive with vendors presenting a medley of cheeses, truffles, fresh produce, and breads. It was indeed a feast for the senses and will forever remain etched in my memory.

Moreover, the charming restaurant Chez Francis in Brive is a must-visit. Decorated with whimsical hand-drawn cartoons, it boasts a menu rich in market-fresh flavors. The chef’s creations are noteworthy, with dishes showcasing local ingredients and delightful combinations, such as grilled duck with fennel.

After exploring Brive, we found ourselves at the Denoix distillery, a gem that has remained unchanged since it opened in 1839. The owner, Sylvie Denoix-Vieillefosse, warmly welcomed us to stroll through her distillery and learn about her craft, which focuses on flavor extraction from local ingredients. Her passion for her products resonated deeply, reinforcing the connection to the land that defines this region.

In summary, Limousin presents two types of beauty: one that is wild and unkempt, and another that is meticulously manicured. Both forms coalesce to create an extraordinary experience for visitors. During our travels, we became enchanted by the stunning canal carved from sheer rock by Cistercian monks and the awe-inspiring Abbey that has withstood the test of time.

In the town of Aubusson, its rich tapestry tradition dates back six centuries. The extensive collection in the Cité Internationale de la Tapisserie showcases various pieces, offering a deep dive into this artistic craft. This cultural aspect is yet another example of why Limousin offers more than meets the eye.

The journey through Limousin ended on a high note as we visited the Adrien Dubouché National Museum, filled with exquisite porcelain pieces. The experience revealed a broader narrative of Limoges porcelain, encompassing centuries of artistic evolution and craftsmanship.

In conclusion, my travels through Limousin proved to be an enlightening experience—one that far exceeded my initial expectations. This region is rich in culture, heritage, and culinary delights, making it a unique destination for those willing to explore.

Limousin at a Glance

Where to Stay

• Domaine des Étangs – A 2,500-acre resort dotted with cows, lakes, and art. Features include a floating tennis court and spa in a converted water mill. Doubles from $450.
• La Chapelle Saint Martin – A small hotel with a fine-dining restaurant, lakeside dining, and an outdoor pool. Doubles from $273.
• La Creuzette – A restored mansion hosting five bedrooms, each meticulously designed. Doubles from $185.

Where to Eat

• Chez Francis – Enjoy whimsical surroundings with delicious market-fresh dishes. Entrées $32-$43.
• En Cuisine – Cozy and relaxed, serving ambitious dishes without the formality. Prix fixe from $29.
• Le Cantou – A family-owned establishment serving hearty regional dishes. Prix fixe from $24.
• Les Petits Ventres – A delightful bistro in Limoges offering a carnivorous feast. Entrées $21-$31.

What to Do

• Adrien Dubouché National Museum – Largest collection of Limoges porcelain, showcasing its history.
• Aubazine Abbey – Visit this historical landmark featuring remarkable architecture and stained-glass windows.
• Cité Internationale de la Tapisserie, Aubusson – A museum showcasing centuries of tapestry history.
• Denoix Distillery – Discover the art of walnut liqueur making in this historic distillery.
• Limoges Museum of Fine Arts – Features impressive artworks and antiquities, including crafts from famous artists.
• Museum Hôtel Lépinat – A charming museum recounting the history of artists in Painters’ Valley.
• Oradour-sur-Glane – A haunting memorial to the victims of a WWII massacre preserved in memory.

A version of this story first appeared in the September 2023 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “The French Dispatch.”