Essential Local Guide to Exploring Egypt

Dancer Yara Saleh on the can’t-miss dancehalls and neighborhoods around Cairo

1 September 2021

The transition from petroleum engineer to professional dancer can’t have been easy, but 28-year-old Yara Saleh is now known for her joyfully uninhibited freestyle moves. As the first teacher and choreographer of Jamaican dancehall in Egypt, she trained in Los Angeles and Jamaica before moving back home to Cairo.

How would you describe Cairo?

It’s a beautiful mess, you know? Cairo is a busy city where you can find your niche regardless of your background. There are many different neighborhoods, catering to those who love noise as well as those seeking quiet or cultural pursuits. Even the beaches aren’t very far away. While certain elements aren’t easy, Cairo is home. It makes me feel alive. I love its rawness; it represents life. The aroma of traditional food, especially koshari, reminds me of Egypt, no matter where I am.

Is there any neighborhood that’s especially dynamic?

The gap between classes is substantial, with many living below the poverty line, leading to very different experiences of Cairo. Emerging neighborhoods like New Cairo and 6th of October City are on the rise. Zamalek remains a vibrant hub because it’s located along the Nile. When it comes to music venues, I love El Sawy Culturewheel in Zamalek and Room in New Cairo – there are numerous cool places to choose from.

What’s one thing you want the world to know about Egyptian youth?

Egyptian youth are driven and resilient. Despite facing numerous challenges, they consistently find ways to adapt and overcome. I studied in Germany, where people would seem frozen when systems broke down. In contrast, Egyptians showcase creativity and resourcefulness, even amidst issues like harassment and poverty. Humor is a prevalent trait; Egyptians often find laughter in difficult situations.

Dance studios aside, what’s your happy place?

Depending on my mood, I might choose one of the few parks in the city when I crave nature. I enjoy strolling, especially when I’m abroad, but it can be unsafe for women to walk freely in Cairo. However, Maadi offers a calmer atmosphere, especially in the early morning. Given my preference for healthy food, I often visit places like Be Good to You and Osana. Both establishments offer vegan options amidst greenery, which enhances my mood. On other days, I may walk along the Nile to reconnect with the essence of Cairo.

What do you miss most about Egypt when you’re abroad?

I miss the vibrant energy. During my time in Europe, everything felt organized but lacked the dynamic action of Cairo. Among all the places I’ve visited, Jamaica felt the most similar to Egypt due to its lively atmosphere.

Is there a local phrase or expression that sums up the personality of Cairo?

Cairo is often described as the city that never sleeps. Before the pandemic, it was common for everything to remain open all the time. This phrase captures the essence of Cairo perfectly; Cairenes are always bustling and cannot remain still.

To an outsider, the country’s dance scene starts and ends with belly-dancing. What do you think about that?

While belly-dancing is indeed the cultural dance of Egypt, it’s essential to recognize the country’s rich folklore. Efforts are underway to revive traditional dances. Several dance genres co-exist, including ballet, salsa, hip-hop, and the increasingly popular Afro styles. There’s a misconception that Egyptians are disconnected from global dance trends. In reality, many travel and bring new styles back home. I introduced dancehall to Egypt, and my learning experience in Jamaica was invaluable.

I’m a tourist with only 24 hours in Cairo. Where should I go?

No visit to Egypt is complete without seeing the pyramids. Their majesty is awe-inspiring. Be sure to sample local dishes such as fuul, koshari, and ta’ameya. Authentic eateries near the pyramids and in Khan el-Khalili offer a glimpse into local life, with opportunities to enjoy shisha while people-watching. Nearby, both the Citadel of Saladin and Al-Azhar Mosque are a must-visit. A felucca ride on the Nile at night promises a memorable experience—you’ll be enchanted by Cairo’s nighttime beauty.

Follow Yara Saleh on Instagram @yaramsaleh