A bag exhibition comprised of more than 300 items ranging from the 16th century to the modern day has opened at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Bags: Inside Out represents the UK’s most comprehensive exhibition dedicated to the ultimate accessory and explores our longstanding fascination with bags.
The exhibition showcases designs from Mulberry to Karl Lagerfeld, featuring bags carried by Vivien Leigh to Sarah Jessica Parker. It highlights the heritage of Hermès and the streetwear of Off-White, alongside an exclusive look inside the world of the factory and atelier. This event investigates the function, status, and craftsmanship of bags, which often project bold statements to the outside world while concealing our most treasured belongings.
Functionality of Bags
The first section of the exhibition entitled “Function” examines bags as practical objects designed to hold our belongings. From holiday outfits to confidential documents, makeup to money, and even gas masks, the design and materials of our bags reflect their intended purpose. Rare exhibits include a large embroidered purse used to protect the silver matrix of Elizabeth I’s Great Seal of England, a gas mask bag owned by HRH Queen Mary during World War II, Winston Churchill’s red despatch box, and Vivien Leigh’s attaché case.
Status and Identity
The second section, “Status and Identity,” explores the central role of bags in celebrity culture and among the political and societal elite. For instance, a Hermès ‘Kelly’ bag named in honour of Grace Kelly and a ‘Lady Dior’ handbag named after Princess Diana are prominently displayed. This part of the exhibition delves into the influential world of celebrity endorsement, featuring the Fendi ‘Baguette’ bag, made famous by Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City, and the Louis Vuitton ‘Monogram Miroir’ Speedy bag popularized by Paris Hilton and Kim Kardashian.
Symbolism of Power
The wardrobe of Margaret Thatcher served as her suit of armour, with her handbag being central to the image of the ‘Iron Lady.’ Thatcher’s handbag exemplifies the use of bags as symbols of power. This concept is further represented through objects such as an anti-slavery reticule bag from 1825, the ‘I am NOT a Plastic Bag’ tote by Anya Hindmarch, and a ‘My Body My Business’ handbag by artist and activist Michele Pred. These items showcase how bags can act as a public platform for personal statements and political messages.
Design and Craftsmanship
The final section of the exhibition focuses on the “Design and Making” process, illustrating the journey from sketch to sample, sewing to selling. This part of the display allows visitors to get an in-depth look at the ingenuity employed by leading brands. A ‘maker’s table’ will showcase the bag-making processes and materials alongside newly commissioned interviews with designers and makers. An insight into the skilled work of shaping bags will include examples of intricate craftsmanship, such as a 17th-century silver filigree heart-shaped purse, a metal chainmail belt bag by Paco Rabanne, and a 17th-century letter case adorned with exquisite straw embroidery.
Bags: Inside Out runs at the V&A until 12 September 2021. For further information, visit here.