Discover the Charming French Village of Lourmarin: A Rustic Alternative to the Glamorous Riviera with Cozy Cafes and Family Vineyards

It’s one of the loveliest Luberon villages.

Things to Do

Château de Lourmarin shines as the most emblematic attraction. Not only does this Renaissance castle brim with storybook charm, it’s also the place to go for live music in summer. Another seasonal standout, Marché de Lourmarin takes over every Friday. Vendors selling Provençale products — crusty baguettes, creamy cheese, honey, juicy melon, stone fruit, herbs, vegetables, olives, lavender essential oil, and hand-woven baskets — fill the tree-lined promenade and the main square. Because it’s a bit larger than some of the button villages in the area, Lourmarin supplies more artisan shops as well. I bought a beautiful handmade hat at Panama By Ophelia that made me feel très chic while galavanting around Provence.

This French Fairy-tale Village Is a Down-to-earth Alternative to the Glitzy Riviera — With Sidewalk Cafes and Family-run Vineyards

In keeping with its pastoral heritage, agritourism outposts dot the countryside. Framed by grape vines and olive trees, Château Constantin is a family estate with a focus on sustainable growing techniques and organic wine. Oenophiles and casual sippers can tour the 17th-century cellar and swirl terroir-driven red, white, and rosé while admiring the bucolic scenery. Bastide du Laval produces aromatic olive oil. I suggest the self-guided audio tour and free tasting. Truffles are one of Provence’s most prized exports. During the summer, Les Pastras invites visitors to hunt for the elusive “black gold” alongside professional guides on a coveted tour that also includes hors d’oeuvres and bubbly.

Where to Eat and Drink

Patrons crowd the bistro tables of Café Gaby for a mid-day meal of steak tartare or salad and people-watching. Bouchon serves tasty small plates and wine in a cozy space with exposed stone walls. La Calade de Lourmarin is a darling spot for lunch, tea, or dessert (wouldn’t you suggest all three?). To satisfy cravings for something sweet and refreshing, Glaces RAVi scoops decadent ice cream sundaes. For the most part, Lourmarin feels like a turn-in-after-dinner type of place, save La Maison Café, which keeps its doors open and folks coming well into the evening hours with cocktails, music, and a lively atmosphere. Planning a picnic? Les Commissions Du Moulin, the gourmet grocery across from Le Moulin, stocks a curated selection of Provençal staples — including wine, cheese, and pastries.

Travelers who don’t mind a short drive to eat somewhere delicious should head to Le Champ des Lunes. The Michelin-starred restaurant at Domaine de Fontenille impresses diners with dishes like local asparagus with egg yolk, nasturtiums, and caviar as well as a splurge-worthy black truffle supplement. Le Dix’Vin is a family-run restaurant in nearby Cadenet that’s favored for its home-cooked food and panoramic views from the terrace.

Where to Stay

Sun-baked hues, wood, and ceramics create a contemporary countryside aesthetic at Le Moulin, an old mill turned chic hotel opposite Château de Lourmarin. You’ll often see locals and guests drinking coffee or wine on the sidewalk terrace. It also has a splendid restaurant that spills out from the dining room to the garden patio. For a very typical guesthouse experience, La Maison de la Place – Lourmarin sits right in the middle of everything and offers a handful of individually designed rooms. If you’d prefer the privacy and room to roam that comes with choosing a respite outside of town, check into Domaine de Fontenille, a Relais & Châteaux retreat with manicured grounds, a pool, and an emphasis on epicurean delights that’s just 10 minutes away from Lourmarin.