Adventure in Hesteyri
You need to be a brave and hardy sort to spend much time in Hesteyri, a deserted town on the northern coast of Iceland. Our traveling party was a mix of expedition newcomers and experienced adventurers, landed in the abandoned settlement to explore the ruins of a whaling station. The impromptu stop was one of many in the country’s desolate Westfjords; however, it was undoubtedly the spookiest.
As darkening clouds gathered from the bay, I suggested we return to the comforts of our ship, the Nansen Explorer. My unease intensified when we encountered a lone park ranger who had spent the past week patrolling the 220 square miles of nature reserve surrounding Hesteyri all alone. We admired her fortitude and offered her a gift of freshly baked pastries from the ship before she disappeared into the underbrush. This encounter was just one of many surreal moments I experienced aboard the Explorer in the summer of 2021. Despite Iceland being about the size of Kentucky, it is home to only 375,000 people, and notably, much of the country remains difficult to access, particularly around its jagged perimeter.
The Nansen Explorer Ship
Our expedition ship was designed specifically for the breathtaking landscapes encountered during our journeys. Built in the 1980s, the Explorer was initially a floating casino before serving as a Norwegian government patrol vessel. In late 2020, a group of Scandinavian polar adventurers transformed it into a high-end expedition vessel catering to intrepid travelers who seek adventure without sacrificing comfort.
Once capable of accommodating 60 passengers, the reshaped Explorer now hosts just 12 in seven cabins, ranging from 131 to 229 square feet. A helipad allows for sightseeing flights over icebergs and floes, while the ship is equipped with two Zodiacs, along with kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for exciting excursions. The on-board chef creatively integrates Nordic ingredients into the menu, offering dishes like raw scallops with black lava salt and tender cuts of venison infused with black garlic.
Culinary Delights
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Unforgettable Moments
Another distinctive feature of the Explorer is its exclusive partnership with Eyos Expeditions, known for expertly coordinating trips through remote maritime environments. The Eyos team oversees logistics for itineraries that may include heli-skiing in Greenland, polar-bear encounters in Svalbard, Norway, or iceberg and penguin spotting along the Antarctic coast. Select trips aboard the Explorer can be attended by individuals, allowing broader access to these extraordinary adventures.
Our Iceland itinerary delivered frequent reminders of why these journeys are worthwhile investments. Shortly after leaving Reykjavík, we entered Arnarfjörður, one of the largest fjords in Iceland’s northwestern region. After a tender ride ashore, we hiked through wild landscapes, gathering plump blueberries along our path. Later, we enjoyed kayaking in the bay beneath Dynjandi, a cascade of waterfalls resembling a bridal veil, and indulged in a soak at a natural geothermal pool while toasting the stars with champagne.
One of the most unforgettable moments occurred on our final day. While returning from the remote island of Vigur by Zodiac, we sped past diving arctic terns and bobbing puffins, and suddenly a humpback whale breached before us. Our plans for sundowners back on the ship were quickly abandoned, as we found ourselves sailing alongside this magnificent creature for the next hour.
Many in our party were moved to tears by the whale’s incredible show as it performed a medley of tail slapping, fin waving, and fluking. This breathtaking encounter served as a fitting finale for an adventure rich in natural beauty.
