Discovering the Maldives: A Traveler’s Paradise

Some 1800 years ago, Arabic traders gave the Maldives a moniker that remains relevant to this day: the ‘Money Isles’. Back then, the archipelago’s abundant cowrie shells (boli) were a powerful international currency, and these paradisaical islands have evolved into a playground for the rich and even richer.

For many, world-class luxury resorts continue to be a major draw, but there are two sides to every coin or cowrie shell. Combining resort indulgence with a cultural encounter on one of the Maldives’ dozens of inhabited islands can make a trip here all the more enriching.

Appreciating the Maldives’ Natural Riches

Nicknames aside, the etymology of the word ‘Maldives’ refers to the remarkable geography of this scattered archipelago. The ‘garland islands’ are indeed draped like a necklace across the Indian Ocean, hanging below the teardrop-shaped earring of Sri Lanka. This is a treasure crafted from only the finest materials: white-gold sands with a turquoise trim, diamond-clear waters, and sparkling sunsets framed by a curtain of palms. Every second spent here is a pinch-me moment.

The Maldives is the world’s lowest country in terms of elevation and is therefore first in the climate change firing line, which makes its natural wonders seem all the more precious, particularly when you meet the wildlife. Keen spotters, snorkelers, and scuba divers should head to the southernmost atoll, Addu (also known as Seenu), to see spinner dolphins, sea turtles, whale sharks, and white terns – a striking seabird found nowhere else in the Maldives.

Addu is also home to some of the islands’ most novel landmarks – a nine-hole golf course with lagoon views, one of the longest roads in the Maldives (a whole 16km, best traveled by bike), and the nation’s tallest mountain, which looms above Villingili, staggering at five metres high.

A Taste of the Inhabited Islands

While staying at a luxury resort for 24/7 pampering is part of the Maldives experience, spa treatments and five-star dinners are only half of the story. To really get a feel for island life, you need to visit one of the officially designated inhabited islands, where most of the islands’ 345,000 people make their homes. Government restrictions that once required permits to explore and stay on non-resort islands have been lifted, and today, many inhabited islands are open for day trips or even overnight stays. Moreover, 50% of resort staff are required by law to be local, making island culture far more accessible.

After living it up at the Shangri-La Villingili Resort & Spa on the southern atoll of Addu, I joined local guide Azmy for a cycle tour of Addu City – a serene string of inhabited isles just across the lagoon from my blissful bubble. Here, an unhurried island vibe prevails (there’s only so much pace one can gather this close to the equator), but political street art, a multitude of mosques, busy tea shops, and welcoming smiles reveal an unexpected community buzz.

‘We don’t lock our doors here – everyone knows everyone,’ explained Azmy with a smile as we parked our bikes outside his family home. I’d wangled an invitation to try out an undholi, the traditional Maldivian swing seats found in most houses in the atolls. Azmy’s wife and mother-in-law seemed bemused by my enthusiasm for trying out the fancy wooden hammock in their living room but were graciously accommodating. And yes, it was as good as it sounds.

A Wealth of History and Culture

People on Addu generally speak excellent English, as the British ran various military bases on Gan island between the 1940s and 1970s. Azmy’s grandfather worked there as a cook, and his father, a local councillor, hopes to open a military museum one day to tell the story of the base, considered a hardship posting for British airmen because of the remote and secluded location.

But there’s plenty of history to discover even without a museum. As we pedaled, we passed a disused post office blanketed in moss, poppy-strewn memorials, a retro-looking cinema (still in occasional use), and an eerie old quarantine centre for sufferers of ‘elephant foot’, a mosquito-borne malady only officially wiped out in 2016. Consequently, I declined to take a closer look at these last facilities.

These days, the RAF barracks form part of Equator Village, one of many budget resorts springing up across the archipelago, and the airstrip has swapped bombers for commercial planes. Gan Airport received its first international passenger flights from Colombo in late 2016, and tourism is expected to boom in the southern atolls, making this an opportune time to explore before crowds descend.

Make Time for Malé

While island life is what the Maldives is all about, the capital, Malé, remains the central transport hub and is well worth a stopover to see its miniature take on ‘big city’ life. It may only cover 5.8 sq km, but compared to the far-flung isles, this densely populated speck in the ocean is positively cosmopolitan. Residents often juggle two jobs, commuting by moped through traffic-clogged streets overshadowed by high-rise banks and office buildings. Markets bustle as the tarmac sizzles, and the call to prayer cuts through the urban thrum.

If you do one thing in Malé, make time for the Old Friday Mosque. Built from coral stone in 1656, its walls are intricately decorated and rough to the touch, similar to the coral found in the ocean. The graveyard’s time-worn headstones (with pointed tops for men and smooth for women) stand off-kilter, like a crowd of spectators vying for a glimpse of the mosque’s timeless grace. The simple tomb of Abdul Barakat Yoosuf Al Barbary, credited with converting the Maldives from Buddhism to Islam in the 12th century, can be found just across the street.

The Ocean’s Bounty for Food Lovers

Walking the streets in the tropical sun can be hungry work – even spa-goers and sunbathers need to eat. The territory of the Maldives covers 90,000 sq km of ocean, so it should come as no surprise that seafood is the staple here, and tuna is catch of the day, every day. This flavoursome fish appears in mas huni, a breakfast dish combining chili, coconut, onion, and tuna, eaten with roti flatbread. Tuna serves as the key ingredient in a host of spicy ‘short eats’ – popular deep-fried snacks – and in the tuna curry that locals enthusiastically enjoy throughout the day.

Many resorts and tour operators offer fishing trips – a chance to witness the traditional pole-and-line technique still used in the Maldivian fishing industry today and try your hand at casting for big game fish. Alternatively, swing by Malé’s fish and produce markets early to see the catch being hauled in for hungry shoppers and hunt for souvenirs. If fishy crisps, smoked tuna, or tuna paste aren’t to your taste, ‘bounty’, a tasty local snack made of coconut meat, sugar, and honey, offers a sweet alternative.

Emma Sparks traveled to the Maldives with support from Shangri-La Villingili Resort & Spa (shangri-la.com/male/villingiliresort). iBestTravel contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.