Exploring the Mekong River: A Journey Through Laos
The Mekong River serves as a vital lifeline of Southeast Asia, and a traditional teak boat is the best way to explore its enchanting landscapes in Laos.
As dusk descended over the Mekong, the crew of the Gypsy prepared dinner on the riverbank. Our guide, Sue Yang, skillfully built a driftwood fire, adding gasoline to ignite the flames. Meanwhile, Singkham Soudachan, our boat captain, emerged from the forest carrying lengths of bamboo, transforming them into skewers for our meal. Once the flames died down, we commenced to cook on the white-hot wood.
On my third day of a four-day river journey with my wife, Charlie; Chris Wise, a photographer; and our dedicated crew aboard a 135-foot teak longboat, we sailed from Luang Prabang in northern Laos to Huay Xai, near Thailand’s western border. The Gypsy, accommodating just four passengers in two elegantly appointed cabins, provides one of the few upscale travel options on the Mekong. With polished dark decks and carefully distressed maps adorning its walls, the vessel envelops passengers in an atmosphere of leisurely exploration.
We began our journey in Luang Prabang before navigating northeast and then westward towards Thailand. The river meandered elegantly beneath mountains lush with teak and tamarind trees. Every evening, we anchored at beaches where our small group could swim before dinner, enjoying cocktails prepared by the crew on the sand.
This expedition through the heart of rural Laos offered a glimpse into village life, highlighted at the close of our last day. Instead of cocktails, we toasted with local rice whiskey, Lao Lao, observed being distilled in plastic barrels downriver. The structured formality of hotel service transformed into a relaxed camaraderie, as both the mechanic and first mate joined us at the beach for a night off.
Culinary delights were certainly a highlight of our journey. Chef Thanvarath Sayasomroth, known as Tee, prepared exquisite dishes such as papaya salad and aromatic stews. On our final evening, he treated us to buffalo steaks over the barbecue alongside local snacks he sourced from a village market earlier that day.
A Glimpse of Luang Prabang
After a couple of days on the river, exploring the charming, peaceful Luang Prabang felt like stepping back in time. Once a royal capital and now Laos’s most-visited city, it is distinctive for its serene, tree-shaded streets dotted with historic monasteries.
One afternoon, I rented a bicycle and began my journey down Khem Kong, the waterfront street beside the Royal Palace, now an architectural standout with its ornate features and golden doors. While modesty characterizes much of Luang Prabang’s architecture, the palace remains an impressive anomaly.
Venturing down narrow lanes lined with charming wooden houses, beautifully restored and framed by vibrant gardens, I felt the essence of the city’s history. Stopping at Wat Xieng Mouane, a tranquil monastery, I observed local life, where time seemed to stand still.
The following morning, we ventured to a local market just before dawn to witness the ancient ritual of alms-giving, where monks collect food donated by locals. Experiencing this moment heightened our appreciation for the local culture.
How to Sail the Mekong
Getting There
Travelers from the U.S. can fly to Luang Prabang via various Asian hubs, with numerous carriers offering flights from Bangkok, Singapore, and Taipei.
Luang Prabang
For a memorable stay in Luang Prabang, the Avani+ hotel boasts a prime location close to markets and temples, offering a fusion of local charm and modern comfort.
The Mekong Experience
For an exclusive sailing adventure, consider The Gypsy, known for its intimate setting and luxurious amenities, ensuring a premium experience on the Mekong.
Exploring Thailand
A visit to the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle promises a luxurious retreat, featuring rescued elephants roaming the area amidst a lush forest backdrop.
