Once upon a time, Lyon was the city that kitted out the royal wardrobe, thanks to the silk trade. Now, its offerings are much more varied. This is a city of creators, where sewing machines still clack on the slopes leading up to Croix-Rousse, the former silk-weaving district. Artists set up easels by the river to capture Vieux Lyon’s eclectic mix of tightly-packed buildings. Moreover, it’s a city renowned for its gourmet produce, including wine from Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley, and cheese from Auvergne and Savoie.
However, shopping in Lyon can be a bit challenging due to inconsistent hours. Many independent boutiques are closed from Sunday to Tuesday, and staff often take long lunch breaks on the other days. Below, we’ll explore some of the favorite shops in this vibrant city.
Best Place to Buy a Souvenir: Satriale
It would be a sacrilege not to buy wine in Lyon. Satriale, a unique wine and vinyl shop, features a pint-sized bar where five friends showcase their passion for wine and music. Keen to promote lesser-known wine regions, you will find selections from Auvergne and the Ardèche, alongside well-represented local wines. Additionally, a distinctive feature is the option to play your favorite vinyl records while enjoying some natural wines. I recommend trying the house wine, Satriale. Supplied from a vineyard in Savoie, you can fill your own bottle right from the tap for just €14, or €13 upon returning your last bottle.
Best Local Design Store: Les Artpenteuses
A collective of 13 artists from Vienne, Les Artpenteuses offers a heady mix of ceramics, cyanotypes, clothing, and recycled glassware. Each month, they showcase a local designer outside their collective in a prominent window display. This store is perfect for gifts, and I often find something unique, such as a handmade bumbag priced at €64 that is nearly as spacious as a handbag.
Best Secondhand/Rental Store: Les débraillé.e.s
If you’re looking to travel light, consider renting clothes from Les débraillé.e.s. They offer a commitment-free month-long rental for €49.99, allowing you to choose three pieces at a time and swap them as needed. With vibrant colors and bold styles, this womenswear store diverges significantly from the typical French couture aesthetic, making it a great option for those wanting to try before they buy.
Best Food: Au Chien Sous La Table
Au Chien Sous La Table (the Dog Under the Table) is where you will find some of the best cheese in Lyon. Featuring a delightful variety of cheeses, including the phenomenal Cœur de Neufchâtel, priced at only €5, their cheese platters are a must-try. The shop boasts a selection ranging from enormous wheels of Comté to the local soft cheese known as cervelle de canut. This shop is definitely a cheese lover’s paradise.
Best Bookshop: Damn Fine Bookstore
One of the first places I sought out in Lyon was Damn Fine Bookstore. This cozy bookshop features an impressive selection of contemporary reads, primarily in English, alongside a collection in Spanish, German, and Italian. The café within the store is a perfect spot to unwind with a cup of coffee and your latest book purchase. Enjoy browsing through the pages of dictionaries adorned on the walls for a unique touch!
