Discover the Untamed Beauty of Iceland’s Westfjords
If you’re looking for Iceland at its rawest, wildest, and emptiest, the Westfjords is most definitely where you’ll find it.
This off-the-radar peninsula in northwest Iceland is only 200km (124 miles) from Reykjavik – less than a day’s drive – yet fewer than 10% of visitors take the time to explore it, deterred by its remoteness, sparse habitation, and notorious unpaved roads.
Those who do visit return with tales to make other travelers green with envy. This is a land of craggy cliffs cloaked with seabirds, thunderous waterfalls, vast glaciers, epic valleys – and perhaps most compelling of all – hardly any other visitors to share these wonders with.
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If you’re one of the hardy few who make it to the Westfjords, bear in mind that the weather can be wild, whatever time of year you visit. The short Icelandic summer from June to August brings the most settled conditions and the longest days (in midsummer the sun never sets at all) but in winter, it’s the polar opposite: just a few hours of daylight a day, with heavy snowfall and ice aplenty.
Visitor numbers drop off sharply in spring and fall, making these good times to explore the region’s amazing hiking trails in solitude. Winter is reserved for hardy explorers, offering skiing at Ísafjörður and a decent chance of spotting the Northern Lights.
Optimal Times to Experience the Westfjords
Low Season (October–April): The Best Time to See the Northern Lights
Winter is the most challenging time to visit the Westfjords. Snow, ice, and blocked roads are common. Some of the more isolated communities of the Westfjords are cut off entirely for much of winter. However, it’s also a spectacularly beautiful time of year, especially for winter skiing or snowshoeing in an empty landscape or having front-row seats for the Northern Lights.
The aurora is actually visible for most of the year, but it requires clear, dark skies. October to April optimizes your chances. Winter driving in Iceland – particularly in the Westfjords – can be challenging; snow tires and/or snow chains are essential. Renting a 4WD is advisable.
Shoulder Season (May and September): Perfect for Quiet Trails
Spring and fall whizz by so fast in Iceland, particularly in the Westfjords, where there are few trees to mark the transition. Nevertheless, these are excellent times for walking along empty trails.
The Westfjords are noticeably quieter during spring and fall, making hiking more enjoyable. With fewer hikers on the trails, hotel rooms become easier to find and often cheaper. Larger roads and passes are likely open, facilitating road trips, although some seasonal shops and attractions may be closed.
High Season (June–August): Ideal for Outdoor Activities
During summer, the Westfjords open up for outdoor pursuits including hiking, mountain biking, sea kayaking, and wildlife spotting. All major mountain passes and cross-fjord ferry routes are operational at the height of summer, enabling straightforward travel.
Summer is also the time when the Westfjords experience their peak crowds. Therefore, it’s advisable to plan ahead for accommodations, particularly in the popular area of Ísafjörður. The endless daylight – 24 hours in June and slightly less in July and August – maximizes your exploration time.
Be Weather-Ready in the Westfjords
Regardless of when you visit, prepare for all weather conditions in the Westfjords. Sudden wintry conditions can arise even in midsummer. Wind and rainproof gear, sturdy boots, and warm layers are essential. Additionally, it’s wise to pack a spare tire and an extra can of gas, as petrol stations in the Westfjords are scarce. Carrying a road map and ferry timetables is also very useful; do not rely on cell signal out in the Westfjords.
Monthly Highlights in the Westfjords
January
With just three hours of daylight and average temperatures barely above freezing, January is a demanding month to visit. However, if you encounter clear weather, it’s an excellent time for winter wildlife watching, as Arctic foxes are often spotted in the wild. January is also peak season for aurora-watching; clearing skies can yield spectacular displays.
Key events: Þorrablót
February
In February, the days lengthen noticeably, with an average of around five hours of daylight, especially toward the end of the month. Though snow still blankets the landscape, aurora activity remains strong, but persistent grey skies can obscure the view.
Key events: Bolludagur (Cream Bun Day), Sprengidagur (Bursting Day), Öskudagur (Icelandic Halloween)
March
March offers up to ten hours of daylight, marking the height of the ski season in the Westfjords. Cross-country skiing, downhill skiing, and snowboarding are available at the main ski resort in Ísafjörður. For experienced skiers, the backcountry beckons (it’s advisable to hire a local guide for safety).
Key Events: Fossavatn Ski Marathon (late March or early April)
April
April is a transition month in the Westfjords, as winter still holds much of the landscape in its icy grip, while more sheltered areas begin to show signs of spring. Ski season persists in Ísafjörður.
Key Events: Ísafjörður Ski Week; Sumardagurinn fyrsti (first day of summer)
May
May typically witnesses the first significant thaws, opening sections of the Westfjords that have been snowbound for much of winter. Wildflowers bloom, marking it as an excellent time for birdwatching. Seasonal seabirds, such as guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, kittiwakes, and puffins, populate the region’s cliffs, notably at Látrabjarg, Iceland’s westernmost point. Snowmelt also provides opportunities for impressive views of mighty Dynjandi and other Westfjords waterfalls.
Key Events: Peak season for birdwatching
June
With the arrival of the midnight sun, the Westfjords enjoy 24 hours of perpetual daylight, facilitating exploration. This is also an excellent time for photography, especially during the elongated golden hour, despite temperatures rarely exceeding 10˚C (50˚F). Mountain roads and hiking trails begin to open in June, enabling ample trail time. Remember to pack an eye mask if you plan on sleeping.
Key Events: Sjómannadagurinn (Sailor’s Day); National Day of Iceland; Summer Solstice
July
Summer commences in the Westfjords, boasting plentiful wildflowers, outdoor activities, and a risk of sunburn. Although temperatures linger around 10–12˚C (50–54˚F), the summer sun in Iceland can be surprisingly strong, necessitating sunblock. This season also offers excellent wildlife viewing; humpbacks, gray whales, and orcas can often be spotted offshore, while playful puffins wander along the cliffs. This is also prime time for exploring the Hornstrandir wilderness area and taking a trip to Vigur Island.
Key Events: Swamp Soccer in Bolungarvík
August
August continues to be favorable for hiking, biking, and outdoor adventures, with abundant daylight (16 to 17 hours) and the year’s warmest temperatures, peaking at 14–16˚C (57–61˚F). Seabirds, including puffins, begin their migration south for the winter, so this is the last opportunity to witness them. Whale sightings also decrease, but trails remain busy, and popular hotels and campsites may be fully booked. Although it might not be beach weather, August is a lovely month to explore the Westfjords’ beaches, such as Breiðavík and Rauðasandur. Towards month’s end, the first hints of winter can be felt as darkness descends.
Key Events: Verslunarmannahelgi; Blueberry Days in Sudavik
September
If autumn is to arrive, September is when you’ll notice it – although, with hardly any trees in the Westfjords, don’t expect grand displays of fall foliage. With fewer visitors, it’s a fantastic time for tours; kayaking, photography, and guided hikes are in high demand.
Key Events: Icelandic Blues Festival in Patreksfjörður
October
As temperatures drop sharply, the first winter snowfall is likely in October. With temperatures nearing freezing overnight, 10-12 days of snow are common throughout the month. Additionally, October marks the reliable return of the Northern Lights in the Westfjords, making it an excellent time to view aurora displays.
Key Events: Start of the Northern Lights season
November
By November, the sun sets around 4 PM, prompting Icelanders to seek warmth and entertainment indoors. It’s an ideal time to visit Ísafjörður – the region’s largest town – to enjoy cozy cafes and pubs, explore heritage museums, and savor seafood bistros. Make time for the informative Westfjords Heritage Museum and the quirky Museum of Everyday Life.
Key Events: Christmas tree lighting across the Westfjords
December
Iceland embraces the holiday spirit in December, with homes adorned in colorful lights and festive events filling the calendar, from winter beer tastings to reindeer rides and Christmas markets. Fireworks illuminate the sky on New Year’s Eve, often competing with the aurora for attention.
Key Events: New Year’s Eve
Safety recommendations and restrictions during a pandemic can change rapidly. It is advisable for travelers to check with local authorities for up-to-date guidance.
