Experience the Unique Dining at nyloS in Maui

What might be the most exclusive restaurant on Maui is not much more than a hole in the wall. The tiny nyloS on the island’s north shore is a foodie’s dream — for those who can manage to snag a reservation.

Chef Jeremy Solyn’s Background

The 18-seat, 700-square-foot restaurant is the brainchild of chef Jeremy Solyn, who grew up in Ohio and moved to Maui in 2007 after cooking in notable locations such as the Hamptons, New York City, San Francisco, Chicago, and Tucson. He opened nyloS (named by reversing the letters in his last name) in 2017 on a side street in Paia, a laid-back surfers’ paradise with a vibe more fish tacos than foie gras.

Mom-and-Pop Operation

It’s a mom-and-pop operation, with Solyn working the kitchen and his wife Paulina running the house and serving (though on the night we went, she was out, a sweet and knowledgeable young man taking her place). Generally, the restaurant has two seatings, at 5 and 8 p.m.; however, the second seating didn’t happen when we went, meaning service was even more leisurely than usual. (This is not the place to go if you’re in a hurry.)

Unique Dining Experience

Dining at nyloS is a true chef’s table experience, with the open kitchen visible from every seat. Watching the chef work his magic — in board shorts and a t-shirt — is part of the fun. The menu changes daily, with Solyn relying on local farms and fishermen for many of his offerings. We started off with a dish of Ossetra caviar and Hudson Valley foie gras mousse, accompanied by a glass of bubbly (on this night, Jean-Charles Boisset No. 21 Cremant de Bourgogne) that’s always included.

Exploring the Menu

The tasting menu is typically six courses, featuring unpredictable combinations of flavors. Our second plate showcased king crab, white prawn, and bluefin tuna, followed by house-made spaghettini with a mushroom-truffle mix, and a sous vide braised prime beef short rib with grilled Maine lobster tail. Moreover, the freshly baked herb focaccia with garlic butter is almost always a feature of the menu. Solyn or his server carefully explain every plate in loving detail — if you didn’t know about things like moringa powder or micro amaranth before, you will after dinner at nyloS.

Pricing Overview

Dessert was an exquisite deconstructed Napoleon featuring local strawberries and vanilla crème, brushed with mint paint, gold dust, and Guittard chocolate. As a certified sommelier, Solyn offers an extensive wine list, including two five-pour pairings available at $70 and $110, along with options by the glass or bottle. Consequently, expect to pay a premium, with our dinner costing $225 per person before wine and gratuities. According to the restaurant’s website, prices generally range from $180 to $230.

As with most tasting menus, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed, and limiting the wine proved helpful. Still, the experience at nyloS is memorable, highlighted by a chef who makes his guests feel like they’re visiting friends in his home.