Exploring St Petersburg: A Cultural Journey
Design maestro at Italian power-dressing label Max Mara and frequent visitor Ian Griffiths shares his guide to Russia’s one-time imperial seat, synonymous with gilt-edged grandeur and literary giants.
What was your initial impression of the city?
‘I had dreamt of it ever since I read War and Peace at school. On my first visit, my guide was a Russian friend, a bon viveur rather like a character from the novel, and I felt as if I had just wandered onto the set of a BBC dramatisation. The whole city is very stylised. It was built in little more than a generation, and most of its architects were Italian, so there is a singular vision of neoclassical order and harmony that runs through its design, art, food, lifestyle – everything. You become completely immersed.’
Most Fascinating Examples of Architecture
‘The building that enchants me the most is Yusupov Palace. The eponymous family was second only to the Romanovs, and their power is reflected in the splendour here. Charismatic couple Prince Felix and Princess Irina were the last inhabitants, and they were destined to play their part in history. Felix famously assassinated Rasputin in a basement and the pair subsequently fled Russia to escape the revolution with a few rolled-up Rembrandts and some diamond earrings said to have once belonged to Marie Antoinette. Walking around the mansion, I can easily imagine them in its gilded salons at the height of the belle époque.’
Dining Recommendations
‘There’s a cluster of world-class contemporary restaurants that serve a new take on traditional dishes, such as CoCoCo by chef Igor Grishechkin and Harvest, which has a modern open kitchen. For an old-school feast, I would recommend the classic Literary Café on Nevsky Prospect. Luminaries including Dostoevsky and Pushkin regularly dined at this spot – in fact, the latter made his last public outing here in 1837 before being killed in a duel. It’s decked out in elaborate chandeliers and tableware, ornate chairs and polished parquet floors. And the menu is typically Russian: borscht, herring, blinis with salmon and, of course, caviar – it’s eaten with every meal, it seems!’
The Best Place to Soak Up Culture
‘You can’t go to St Petersburg without visiting the State Hermitage Museum with its monumental spaces and staggering exhibits. I was lucky enough to go on a private tour of the archive, where I saw the extravagant outfits worn by the Yusupovs and guests at their glittering balls and masquerades. The State Russian Museum is also unmissable. Its early-20th-century galleries reflect the country’s enormous contribution to the “isms” – modernism, constructivism and futurism.’
Your Favourite Corners
‘While reminders of Tolstoy and Pushkin are everywhere, in the grand palaces, avenues and squares, the spirit of Dostoevsky is harder to find. But it’s worth the effort, because those out-of-the-way shabby streets, where characters from Crime and Punishment lived out their lives, are just as much a part of the story. I once took a 40-minute walking tour to see the novel’s key landmarks, and went to the author’s former apartment on Kuznechny Lane.’
A Typical Evening Here
‘Spending a night at Mariinsky Theatre is a highlight of any trip. It was the leading national music theatre in the 19th century, where masterpieces by Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky and Rimsky-Korsakov premiered. For an off-the-beaten-track cocktail, I love Bar Mitya, the secret room at the bohemian Café Rubinstein. It’s tiny – less than 110 square feet – and always busy. A cult hit.’
The Loveliest Shop
‘The Lomonosov Imperial Porcelain Factory is exquisite. For me, its neoclassical restraint completely encapsulates the city’s look. It was founded in 1744 under the decree of Empress Elizabeth, Peter the Great’s daughter. There’s no better address to buy Russian porcelain than the one where it originated. If you only pick up one thing, make it a caviar dish with an elegant, sturgeon-shaped handle.’
An Ideal Way to See the Sights
‘Provided you’re dressed for the weather, it’s a delight to explore on foot, but to appreciate the scenery, go by boat. St Petersburg consists of 42 islands connected by waterways. On a summer evening, during the period of the White Nights when the sun never really sets, a river cruise – accompanied by a shot of crisp local vodka and a spoonful of black caviar – is a magical experience.’
Fashion Inspiration
‘I think that fashion is about storytelling, and here I found the narrative I was seeking. There’s poetry in the magnificent and immense beauty, which made me want to unlock the brand’s romantic side. The elaborately embroidered costumes I saw in the Hermitage were the direct inspiration for handkerchief-hemmed dresses and skirts. The ceremonial uniforms worn by princes, counts and generals gave me the idea for the antique-looking braids that highlight the seams of tuxedos and wide-legged trousers. In a new colour-block take on the kosovorotka peasant shirt, you can clearly see the influence of abstract artist Kazimir Malevich. It’s all about contrast, just like the city itself.’
