A Culinary Journey Through Mexico City
“Mexico City is upsettingly good,” Natalie Kitroeff tells me. The New York Times reporter is one of many young transplants to CDMX, as Ciudad de México is colloquially known. She’s referring to the myriad pleasures this city offers—sensual, social, spiritual, and gastronomic—which have attracted a diverse and multilingual crowd, turning the area into a vibrant hub of creativity. Even if you don’t speak Spanish, you’ll find that the servers, bartenders, and dog walkers in the trendiest neighborhoods will readily accommodate you. However, young locals express concerns about the rising rents and shifting authenticity due to new arrivals.
Mexico City’s global reputation for culinary excellence has been steadily rising, especially as the pandemic restrictions relaxed. This created an influx of adventurous youth seeking an unparalleled urban experience. The incredible array of fine restaurants makes journeys through the city both enjoyable and bearable, positioning CDMX as a culinary capital on par with renowned cities like Bangkok, Mumbai, Paris, and Rome. Local chefs, such as Enrique Olvera, have brought international recognition to authentic Mexican cuisine, with his restaurant Pujol being a consistent feature on the World’s Best Restaurants list.
During my five-day stay, every meal becomes an important occasion. I settle into the Ritz-Carlton, nestled among modern skyscrapers along Paseo de la Reforma. From my 45th-floor glassed-in balcony, I gaze over the lush expanse of Chapultepec Park, home to an 18th-century castle and the National Museum of Anthropology. To one side lies the upscale Polanco neighborhood, while the lively Condesa and Roma Norte on the other beckon with their vibrant allure.
First Culinary Stop: Contramar
Conveniently close is Contramar, famous for introducing fresh seafood to a meat-loving audience and igniting a culinary transformation over 20 years ago. Even during the extended Mexican “lunch hour,” which stretches from midday to 6 PM, the restaurant bustles with eager patrons. Although I face a one-hour wait initially, my pleading expression earns me entry. The atmosphere is lively and colorful, and the blue-and-white decor evokes distant seaside locations. Contramar’s chef, Gabriela Cámara, is not only talented but also an advisor to the Mexican president.
After joking about my obvious choice of dining there, I quickly learn from my social media followers that the tuna tostadas are a must-try. The combination of chipotle and avocado enhances the raw fish, offering a delicacy that feels like silk on the palate. This is followed by an afternoon mezcal and a refreshing ceviche of red clams and cherry tomatoes. Yet, the appetizer remains the highlight of the meal, with a soothing fresh fig tart capping off the culinary delight.
Exploring New Flavors with Friends
After a brief nap, I meet my friend David Lida, an expert on Mexico City. As we stroll through Roma Norte, he highlights the fascinating blend of old and new architecture. Our quest for seafood continues at La Docena, a Guadalajara transplant offering dishes prepared with fresh Pacific fish, cured meats, and exceptional Mexican wines. As the sun sets, we enjoy oysters paired with an impressive house rosé before diving into la Docena’s specialty, chilpachole—a spicy crab soup beautifully presented with radish slices, which brings tears of joy to my eyes.
Breakfast Adventures
Let’s be clear: Mexico City is a breakfast paradise. I indulge in a variety of breakfast spots, such as Fonda Margarita, famous for its chicharrón en salsa verde—tender enough to make you swoon—and traditional café de olla, a sweet delight. At El Cardenal, housed in an elegant Parisian-style mansion, I experience escamoles for the first time, exquisitely prepared, even for a hesitant entomophobe like me.
Cultural Delights and Cantina Experiences
The following day, I have the pleasure of exploring the Mercado de San Juan. There, I encounter unusual delicacies and discover local favorites, like quesadillas featuring corn fungus, lending a creamy texture reminiscent of blue cheese. Enjoying delicious tacos and coffee from local vendors highlights the city’s vibrant culinary scene.
Mexico City’s Cantina Culture
Next, I dive into the traditional cantina experience, which unites friends and enhances shared moments. One of the oldest cantinas, Tío Pepe, captures the essence of social connection over mezcal and lively conversation. Afterward, we venture to El Paraíso, where all-day drinking is paired with hearty meals enjoyed in a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Dining at Meroma and Em
In Meroma, an upscale Roma Norte restaurant, innovation flourishes alongside tradition. Their dishes showcase the vibrant palate of Mexico City, blending seasonal ingredients with culinary prowess. Em offers an elevated tasting menu, highlighting both local and foreign influences, ensuring a memorable culinary experience.
Blending history, flavor, and culture, Mexico City stands as a magnificent tapestry of dining adventures, showcasing why it is hailed as one of the greatest culinary destinations in the world.
