The St Patrick’s Festival in Montserrat
The St Patrick’s Festival has become one of Montserrat’s most popular annual events. This year marks the return to the island’s first in-person festival since 2020, and it promises to be unforgettable.
I first attended the St Patrick’s Festival in 2003. At that time, Montserrat was still experiencing periodic volcanic eruptions, and the makeshift festival grounds at Little Bay were dusty with gray ash. The scene was framed by coconut fronds that framed small shacks set up for the Slave Feast.
Frying pans bubbled with Johnny Cakes and fried chicken while string-band music played on the stage. Initially, this was a more intimate, locals-only event occurring over two or three days. However, it has since evolved into a larger celebration that attracts visitors from around the globe, with many Montserratians returning for 10 days filled with culture, revelry, and delicious food.
Why Celebrate an Irish Holiday in Montserrat?
On March 17, 1768, Montserrat’s martyrs of freedom attempted to overthrow the island’s leaders while they celebrated the Irish feast of St Patrick at Government House. A woman overheard the enslaved people’s plans and reported the plot. Consequently, the rebellion was thwarted, resulting in the execution of nine ringleaders and imprisonment for others.
In the early 1970s, the local campus of the University of the West Indies began organizing lectures and exhibitions around this time to foster national pride. These activities eventually centered in the village of St Patrick’s to create a day of celebration, similar to other communities that celebrate St John’s Day every December 27. Montserrat first officially recognized St Patrick’s Day as a holiday in 1985.
Reasons to Attend the Festival
Many of Montserrat’s villages and family names retain the legacy of Ireland’s influence during and after slavery. Montserrat’s interpretation of St Patrick’s Day offers a tribute to the sacrifices made in the fight for freedom.
The festival presents a complex contrast between a painful history and the vibrant culture of Montserrat, which mirrors the lush greenery seen in Ireland. Attendees don leprechaun hats and four-leaf clovers, while gaining insight into the community’s resilience through imagery of broken chains and African apparel, complemented by music and dance that highlight a culture revitalizing itself after challenges.
When Is It? The 2023 Festival Schedule
The festival takes place from March 10 to March 19, featuring events across the island, including Salem in the south and Little Bay in the north. The landmark Montserrat Cultural Centre in Little Bay serves as a performance center for concerts, theater productions, and national ceremonies. One of the festival highlights, the Heritage Feast, occurs at noon on St Patrick’s Day (March 17) in Salem village, transforming the community into a hub of activity.
Getting There and Staying in Montserrat
Montserrat is a small Caribbean island, roughly a 20-minute flight from Antigua. There are daily international flights arriving in Antigua from various destinations including Europe, Canada, the United States, and other Caribbean nations.
Accommodations on Montserrat range from luxurious villas in the south to intimate B&Bs in Baker Hill, with the island’s lone hotel located a short drive from the airport. Many visitors also stay with family and friends during this festive period.
Key Events to Attend
The festival is packed with events, performances, and ceremonies, offering something for everyone. Here are some highlighted events:
Art and Culture Events
The festival commences with the Lighting of the Flame in Cudjoe Head, honoring enslaved and freedom fighters throughout history. Follow this with various plays, dance performances, and local musical acts.
Day and Night Festivities
Be prepared for vibrant day fetes, car races, and late-night DJ competitions. Signature parties like Boozey Brunch and Leprechaun’s Revenge ensure a euphoric atmosphere throughout the festival.
Culinary Experiences
Indulge in local flavors during the festival, with opportunities to try traditional treats like guava cheese, coconut tart, and tamarind balls. The Heritage Feast highlights local cuisine, providing an authentic taste of Montserrat’s culinary heritage.
What to Pack for the Festival
With various events and activities, comfortable footwear is essential for walking and standing. Extra batteries for cameras and a reusable water bottle are also recommended to enhance your festival experience.
