Explore Belfast: A Guide to Northern Ireland’s Capital
You may not go to Belfast for the weather, but there are plenty of other reasons to visit Northern Ireland’s capital. This small, idiosyncratic city has long punched above its diminutive weight in terms of cultural impact.
This is the hometown of Ulster Frys and Belfast baps; of CS Lewis, George Best, and Van Morrison; of the RMS Titanic and the Harland and Wolff shipyard; and of deeply politicized murals enlivening its red-brick gable walls.
Though Belfast bore witness to one of the most violent civil unrests in 20th-century Europe – known, in an incredibly downplayed Northern Irish way, as The Troubles – the scars have begun to heal, giving rise to a rejuvenated city that reflects on, rather than shies away from, its history.
Belfast today has a thriving performing arts scene and a nightlife culture that fuses haute cuisine with cozy pubs and Irish folk music. Carefully curated museums and tours provide nourishment for history buffs, whilst walking enthusiasts can find nature on the city’s doorstep. And though locals might bemoan the rising price of a pint, Belfast remains an affordable travel destination for most budgets. These are the best things to do.
Dive into Belfast’s history at the Titanic Belfast museum
The Titanic Belfast museum, rising in star-like fashion from the grounds of Harland and Wolff shipyard, is much more than a mere maritime showcase. Told through interactive exhibitions, it’s a comprehensive exploration of Belfast’s storied history, from an 18th-century trading town on the River Lagan to the industrial explosion that gave rise to world-leading industries. The journey culminates with an extensive deep dive into the RMS Titanic, whose ill-fated Atlantic voyage in 1912 eventually crippled the city’s number one industry.
As the central hub of Belfast’s burgeoning Titanic Quarter, the museum nests under the watchful gaze of its twin industrial icons: a pair of large yellow cranes named Samson and Goliath. You’ll want to set aside a few hours to meander through the five-story museum followed by a walk along the harbor. Finish up in nearby public house Hickson’s Point for a pint of Guinness – it’s unmissable thanks to the Docker’s Rest mural on its exterior wall.
Watch a show at the theater
Belfast’s murky past has ensured that art and tragedy (and indeed comedy) deeply intersect, and perhaps nowhere is this more apparent than at the Lyric Theatre. First opened in 1968 – the same year the conflict began – Northern Ireland’s premier playhouse has cultivated a raft of world-renowned talent over the subsequent half-century. Be it conflict-era dramedies in the main auditorium or developmental pieces in the Naughton Studio, a night at the Lyric is a wonderful introduction to modern Belfast’s artistic prowess.
Serious theater heads should consider attending a show in the Grand Opera House in Belfast city center, the go-to venue for large-scale productions, including West End and Broadway shows as well as witty local pantomimes and Disney musicals. For independent productions and exceptional one-off performances, the Modern Arts Center, aka the MAC, and the Waterfront Hall are not-to-be-missed venues.
Go for a hike up Cave Hill
When the weather’s on your side (typically difficult to predict, irrespective of the season), take a hike up Cave Hill which rises to a humble height of 368m (1207ft) above the low-lying city. The most famous of Belfast’s surrounding cliffs, it also goes by the colloquial epithets ‘Napoleon’s Nose’, due to its sharp profile resembling that of the former French dictator.
A 4.5-mile round-trip, starting and finishing at Belfast Castle, is the optimal walking course. En route, you’ll pass by the Devil’s Punchbowl, the site where McArt’s Fort once stood, and captivating views of Belfast Lough to the east and the Mourne Mountains in County Down to the south. This walk is generally not congested, but expect some company on New Year’s Day and Boxing Day, which are popular for post-festive walks on Cave Hill. Solid footwear is recommended.
Visit Westeros in Belfast
Film and television have become major pillars of the Northern Irish economy, with HBO’s Game of Thrones being a primary catalyst. Visitors to the capital are treated to a flavor of Westeros in a place where much of it became a reality.
Start with the Glass of Thrones walking tour, which connects six stained-glass artworks depicting epic scenes from the series. Nearby locations enhance the experience, showcasing the connections to beloved characters and significant events within the realms of Westeros.
Bar hop in the Cathedral Quarter
In the Cathedral Quarter, you’ll find some of Belfast’s most iconic bars centered around a narrow walking street in the heart of the city. Grab a pint at the Duke of York, a cozy pub whose cramped confines are filled with hand-carved mirrors, chattering imbibers, and vintage ephemera from the nine counties of Ulster.
On long summer evenings, retreat to the beer gardens at The Thirsty Goat or The Dirty Onion (patio heaters and awnings included). The Harp Bar is roomy and chic with excellent live music throughout the week – and has Irish Harp lager on tap. Alternatively, Muriel’s is a suave hideout for craft spirits and artisanal cocktails.
While you’re in the Cathedral Quarter, take a stroll past the Umbrella Passage mural, portraying famous local faces crowded around a table under a canopy of umbrellas, and St Anne’s Cathedral, the grand Church of Ireland edifice from which the area gets its name.
Take a black taxi tour of Belfast’s political murals
As the late Northern Irish poet, Seamus Heaney, once opined, “The end of art is peace”; a sentiment the Belfast black taxi tour echoes. In the backseat of a black cab – many of which appeared during the early days of The Troubles due to a lack of public transport in north and west Belfast – you’ll chart a course through some of the city’s most divided neighborhoods and past a rich tableau of murals borne out of the late-20th-century tensions.
Many of those who contributed to the fractured sociopolitical landscape – martyred republican hunger striker Bobby Sands; 17th-century icon of Ulster unionism, King William of Orange; paramilitaries on both sides of the Unionist-Nationalist divide – are portrayed in the mural iconography of the tour. Each offers a visual aid to understanding the complex history of Troubles-era Belfast.
Indulge in a fish supper
Fish suppers are the quintessential, hearty fast-food repast of nearly every Northern Irish childhood. Taking advantage of its seaside location, Belfast is awash in “chippies” selling this enduring guilty pleasure. The composition features battered and deep-fried white fish (usually cod, occasionally haddock) on top of a bed of chips, with tartare sauce, mushy peas, and salt and vinegar as common additions.
On the recently gentrified Ormeau Road, Kings Traditional Fish and Chips has stuck to its roots and still serves up some of the finest fish suppers in south Belfast. Other local favorites include long-standing establishments, beloved for their quality and heritage. Your options are aplenty, and seldom does quality not match the quantity.
Break your fast on an Ulster Fry
No punches are pulled with breakfast food in Belfast either; a fact personified by the Ulster Fry. Taking its name from the Province of Ulster, Ulster Frys are a combination of eggs, bacon, sausages, beans, tomatoes, mushrooms, potato bread, soda bread, and white and black pudding. Most cafes and pubs will serve some version of this (often throughout the day).
Popular spots serve delicious Ulster Frys, including establishments nestled near Queens University and others with intriguing takes on the nation’s favorite breakfast.
Check out the street art at CS Lewis Square
Over the last decade, east Belfast has been subject to various district rejuvenation projects, most notably, CS Lewis Square; it’s a homage to the eponymous creator of the fictional world Narnia.
Head down to see the dramatis personae of Lewis’s bestselling series recreated in statue form: a distinctly Westerosi Aslan, alongside sculptures of the White Witch, Mr. Tumnus, the Beavers, and a replica of the Stone Table. You’ll also find the Luminaries and Legends mural, celebrating famous “easties,” including Van Morrison, Thin Lizzy guitarist Gary Moore, and CS Lewis himself.
Soak up the local music scene
Belfast’s Celtic roots have ensured the live music scene is baked into the foundations of its nightlife culture. The city became a UNESCO City of Music in 2021, recognizing its “rich musical heritage” and “the importance of music to its future.” From session nights at various pubs to performances at dedicated music venues, travelers on the hunt for live music will find themselves enchanted by twanging guitar chords and rippling fiddles.
Watch live sports – rugby, football, ice hockey
Northern Ireland has a rich sporting heritage, and watching one of the local professional teams in action is a great way to engage in the local culture. The Kingspan Stadium, affectionately known by its previous name “Ravenhill,” is the home of Ulster Rugby. The atmosphere is electric, with Guinness served on tap in the beer tents.
Windsor Park, Northern Ireland’s home football stadium, provides an enthralling experience as well, celebrated for its vibrant fanbase. Ice hockey fans can also catch a Belfast Giants game at the SSE Arena’s ice rink, offering a fun night out for the entire family.
Dine out on Michelin-star fare
Belfast’s burgeoning culinary scene was given another boost at the beginning of 2022 when its Michelin-star-rated restaurants retained their lofty status. The Muddlers Club, hidden down a cobbled entryway, specializes in creative tasting menus using homegrown produce, while Deanes Eipic offers delicate seasonal tasting menus paired with curated wine selections.
OX Belfast, started by a chef duo who underwent culinary training in Paris, offers elegant seasonal tasting menus that highlight the best of local ingredients.
Get thrifty at St George’s Market
St George’s Market in the city center, open from morning to early afternoon Friday through Sunday, is Belfast’s premier market space, crammed with stalls selling vintage clothing, Celtic jewelry, boutique artworks, handmade crafts, and gastronomic delights.
The market offers a mix of artisan goods with fresh local produce, making it a must-visit destination for both residents and tourists looking for authentic local flavor and craftsmanship.
Dark tourism at Crumlin Road Gaol
Opened in 1846, the Victorian-era Crumlin Road Gaol is a brooding prison that closed its doors in 1996 after 150 years of operation. Self-guided tours incorporate audio guides offering insights into its significant history and notorious inhabitants.
Ye olde history at the Ulster Folk Museum
If you want to travel further back in time, the Ulster Folk Museum is a recreated township in the rolling hills of Ballycultra on the outskirts of Belfast. It explores traditional life and linguistic roots through interactive experiences.