Explore the Wonders of Naples, Italy
Including the best places to stay, eat, and see
21 April 2021
The force behind maximalist Milanese label Etro, Veronica Etro finds inspiration in Naples, the corner of Italy where splendid palaces, lava-clad ruins, and gritty street life merge.
What’s Your Connection to Naples?
‘My great-grandfather was Neapolitan, so I feel partially rooted here, but what appeals to me most is the authenticity. Everything here is unique – the food, the people, the places, and the traditions – it’s a world of its own. When I think of the area, I recall the sorbet hues, the blue horizon between sea and sky, positivity, and the relaxed attitude: things that have significantly influenced my work.’
Where to Stay?
‘A favorite is Hotel Excelsior, on the tip of the coast beside the port of Santa Lucia – the ocean views are magical. It’s one of the city’s original grand hotels, with belle époque ballrooms and marble everything. It’s the perfect base for exploring, especially if, like me, you want to dive into the streets and experience true local life. For relaxation, the best hotel is Mezzatorre on the nearby island of Ischia. It has that charming riviera feel, with striped parasols and swimming pools built into the rock.’
Your Favourite Places to Eat?
‘I recommend trying street food such as pizza di scarola, a traditional pizza pie more like a doughy panino, made with olives, capers, anchovies, pine nuts, and raisins. You’ll find them being whipped up along the crowded narrow streets in the centre of Naples. They are typically made on Christmas Eve or at Easter. If I were to choose a restaurant, it would be Zi Teresa, down the road from the Castel dell’Ovo, for its delicious seafood and waterfront tables so good you’re almost sitting in the harbour.’
Good Pit Stops
‘My go-to is Gran Caffè Gambrinus, a striking 19th-century building. You can’t miss it if you’re a coffee enthusiast wanting to taste a real Neapolitan espresso. In the evenings, I often sip a glass of wine beside the water in the Marechiaro area, which has an old fishing port.’
Shops for Local Craft
‘I love the stores on the Amalfi Coast selling ceramics – these handcrafted objects are true pieces of art, covered in incredible drawings. Vietri sul Mare in Salerno is great for colorful pottery stalls. Also, I’ve enjoyed discovering the shops in the heart of Naples, packed with good-luck charms and amulets. According to tradition, the famous red horn-shaped talisman should be gifted and not bought for yourself, and it must be activated by a certain ritual – Neapolitans are very superstitious!’
Best Things You’ve Bought Here?
‘I’ve picked up a few classic pieces of the nativity scene – a very common Italian souvenir – on via San Gregorio Armeno. It’s one of the best-known and most picturesque streets in the city, full of artisanal stalls and religious tokens.’
The Loveliest Outdoor Spaces
‘I really liked visiting the Royal Palace of Caserta, to the north of Naples. I particularly admired its huge, impressive park with waterfalls and fountains. The other highlight is, of course, Mount Vesuvius – I climbed the active volcano before the pandemic, and it was fascinating.’
Culture Fix
‘The mosaics at UNESCO-listed Herculaneum and Pompeii, which were buried when Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, are worth a trip. The ruins are remarkable museums out in the open. Also, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli is renowned for its Roman finds, but I go to see the Egyptian section – one of the largest in Italy. Another must-do is the Napoli Sotterranea tour through the town’s underground passages.’
Day Trips to Recommend
‘A big draw of this area is that you can reach beautiful islands in just one hour on the ferry. Capri is wonderful, with rocky coastlines, small caves, and deep, clear waters the shade of emeralds. There aren’t many beaches here, so the best way to experience the isle is by boat, taking in the scenery and passing under the legendary Faraglioni rock formations.’
Getting Off the Beaten Track
‘Villa Oplontis, also known as Villa Poppaea, believed to have been built by Emperor Nero as a gift for his second wife, is part of a Roman archaeological site in Torre Annunziata, which is not too far from the city and significantly less crowded than Pompeii.’
Influence of Naples on Your Latest Collection
‘During the first lockdown, I started up my old record player with my grandfather’s vinyl collection – one Neapolitan melody from the 1950s became the starting point of inspiration. I visualized the landmarks, the indistinguishable colors, landscapes, and flavors of my holiday spent there. This led me to blend nautical elements with graceful archival foulard prints from the 1990s, echoing sumptuous palazzo frescoes. I titled the collection Estate Italiana, or Italian Summer; a fresh, vibrant, uncomplicated mood full of optimism.’
