Síomha Connolly, a fashion writer from Dublin, Ireland, shares a snapshot of a recent trip to Nice, highlighting the best places to eat, drink and stay in — and what you shouldn’t miss.
Spurred on by a dream to visit one of my bucket-list hotels, I planned a visit to the South of France as an end-of-summer trip. Arriving at our first destination in Nice on the last weekend in September, temperatures were a balmy 24°C (75°F). The late summer weather was perfect for wandering around the city without being too hot, yet warm enough to sit outside and enjoy an afternoon drink or a swim in the sea. Avoiding the main tourist season allowed us to visit some popular spots without bookings and secured better accommodation rates.
I usually start the day in Nice with…
A walk around the city, taking in the sun-soaked buildings and finding a delightful spot for coffee. Unless it’s a luxury five-star resort, I never opt to include breakfast in my hotel stay, preferring instead to discover a local café or bakery.
One of my favorite activities while traveling is exploring local boutiques and craft shops. A charming spot in Nice was a tiny shopfront on Boulevard Stalingrad selling an array of straw souvenirs, from small basket bags to larger chairs, wicker tables, and handwoven textiles. We left with a lovely hand-crocheted bag to add to our growing holiday collection.
In Nice, you must try…
A cocktail at Le Plongeoir. After winding our way around Port Lympia and admiring all of the super yachts, we spotted a locals’ swimming area, Plage des Bains Military: a peaceful, small pebbled beach much quieter than the main promenade. While this calm cove would be perfect to cool off after a day of sightseeing, we had a cocktail in our sights, so we headed straight for Le Plongeoir instead.
While the restaurant operates on a reservation-only basis, the lower platform offers drinks and small snacks from a wood-fired oven. Visiting at the end of September meant we missed the summer rush and were seated immediately. The gentle sounds of waves, a view of yachts sailing by, and golden hour sunlight twinkling on the sea created the perfect atmosphere to enjoy our first evening in Nice.
The top spot for a classic dinner in Nice is…
At La Merenda. This restaurant is a Nice institution run by chef Dominique Le Stanc, serving a small menu of regional dishes made with produce sourced from the market at Cours Saleya each morning.
Inside the cozy 24-seat restaurant, colorful artwork lines the walls (many of the pieces bespoke for La Merenda) while a linen hopsack drapes from the ceiling, creating an inviting atmosphere filled with chatter from fellow diners. Do order the deep-fried courgette flowers and pesto pasta; you won’t be disappointed — and remember to bring cash; cards aren’t accepted.
In Nice, I stayed at…
Hôtel Vendôme. A last-minute booking that paid off, Hôtel Vendôme is a well-located hotel on Rue Pastorelli. The street has a tram stop just a two-minute walk away and leads you to the main shopping district, Avenue Jean Médecin. Additionally, it’s a 15-minute walk from Nice Ville train station and 25 minutes by tram from the airport, making it a convenient and central location for exploring the city.
Don’t miss the art installation in the hotel lobby; the neoclassical building features stained glass windows on the staircase. While rooms are basic, ours was on the fifth floor with a balcony overlooking the city. If you stay here, check out the nearby wine bar, La Part des Anges, where you can find a bottle to take away or enjoy a cheeseboard with small plates.
I got away from the crowds by…
Taking the train along the Côte d’Azur for a weekend trip from Nice. Tucked between Cannes and Saint-Tropez is the small port town of Saint Raphael, where you’ll discover an extraordinary boutique hotel called Les Roches Rouges. Perched right on the coast and situated opposite the Île d’Or (the golden island), the hotel boasts a seawater swimming pool carved into the rocks, offering breathtaking sea views.
The ultimate experience is waking up to a view from your private balcony and hearing the waves lap against the shore, splashing into the seawater pool — refreshing it just in time for your morning swim.
From Nice, you should bring back a…
Souvenir from the Cours Saleya market. On Mondays, the weekly market at Cours Saleya transforms into a brocante that spans the nearby streets and squares. Expect to find a variety of items, including fashion, ceramics, art, furniture, and trinkets. For example, during a recent visit, I spotted a vintage Dior trunk for €299 and a Balmain silk scarf for €25.
Allow yourself plenty of time to browse and wander through the squares. The stalls open around 9 am and begin closing around 4 pm, so plan accordingly and allow time for lunch when it gets too hot. We stopped at Le Rossetti, a small family-run restaurant just off Place Rossetti, serving wood-fired pizzas, socca, and deep-fried courgette flowers. Enjoy an aperitif or gelato by the fountain in Place Rossetti afterward to celebrate a successful shopping trip.
The one item I recommend bringing to Nice is…
Easy to match linen separates. These practical pieces are cool enough for daytime and easy to dress up for the night. My travel wardrobe consists of linen mix-and-match separates, which are functional and stylish.
