Culinary Adventure in Normandy
AnneMarie McCarthy recently traveled to Normandy for an autumnal foodie tour packed with farm-to-table treats and cozy accommodations. Here, she shares insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
After spending most of 2023 working on the upcoming France guide, I was eager to experience the culture of Normandy in person. Inspired by descriptions of the region, I embarked on a foodie tour to explore its local food culture and savor the delights of the autumn harvest.
Accommodations: Where to Stay
We were fortunate to stay in three different locations, each offering a unique atmosphere. Les Canisses, located under a bridge, provided a peaceful view of the River Seine. The restaurant downstairs, featuring an open fire, created a homestyle ambiance. It’s merely a 12-minute drive from the Vernon Giverny train station, making it a great budget-friendly option, with room rates starting at €68.
The second night was spent at La Malherbière, a gîte overlooking the Camembert Valley, which comfortably accommodates up to nine guests. Breakfast options included apple juice and honey sourced from the estate. Although usually rented on a weekly basis, it’s an ideal stop for larger groups. Our last night was at the exquisite five-star Château La Chenevière, located just outside the fishing village of Port-en-Bessin. Renowned for its permaculture herb and vegetable garden, it offers an enticing dining experience accessible to non-residents, with a three-course menu priced at €72.
Culinary Highlights: Best Dishes
One standout dish was the scallops ceviche prepared at Château La Chenevière, featuring orange juice and carrots. We even participated in the preparation with Chef Hugo Genty. A close runner-up was the two-course lunch at Sara’zin creperie in Pont-Audemer, known for its winding streets. The main course was a galette filled with gorgonzola and apple, followed by a sweet crepe topped with sakura-infused pear.
Iconic Experiences: A Tourist’s Delight
We took a break from gastronomic delights to visit Monet’s House in Giverny, which features the famous water lilies that inspired the Impressionist master. Although the gardens were nearing winter’s end, their beauty remained captivating. Due to its popularity with cruise tours, visiting an hour before closing time is advisable to minimize crowds.
Memorable Moments: Favorite Photos
A favorite moment came at La Ferme de l’Institut, an organic farm producing its own Camembert. This picturesque location truly encapsulated the essence of my trip, showcasing a spread of good local food. I had the opportunity to speak with Dalila, one of the farmers, who shared insights into their sustainable practices and commitment to the quality of their products.
Souvenirs of Normandy
My suitcase overflowed with delicacies upon my return: semi-sweet cider from Mont Viné cidrerie, cider jam, and calvados from Calvados Busnel Distillery. These items reflected the passion of the people behind them, made even sweeter by the tours and tastings I experienced.
Undiscovered Activities: Hidden Gems
One unexpected delight was the Musée du Camembert in Vimoutiers. Run by volunteers, this museum offers a treasure trove of information on the history of Camembert cheese. The workshops, allowing guests to make their own butter, come highly recommended, especially since participants are rewarded with a tasting of local cheeses.
