Gage & Tollner: A Landmark Restaurant Reimagined in Brooklyn

When Gage & Tollner reopened in Downtown Brooklyn in April 2021, it not only revitalized the local dining landscape but also captured the attention of architecture enthusiasts. The building, which served as the restaurant from 1879 to 2004, boasts a landmarked exterior, while the dining room is recognized as one of the few interiors in New York City to hold landmark status, alongside the New York Public Library and Grant’s Tomb. Since the original Gage & Tollner salon was designated a landmark, New York City has acknowledged 119 other landmarked interiors, yet only a small number are restaurants.

We had the opportunity to interview St. John Frizell and Ben Schneider, who took over the lease in 2018 with Chef Sohui Kim, about the hurdles they faced while reopening this classic dining establishment amid numerous closures and how they successfully preserved a crucial piece of New York City’s culinary heritage alongside the architectural significance of a landmarked structure.

Following its closure in 2004, the restaurant site was temporarily transformed into a TGI Fridays and even housed the world’s most beautiful Arby’s. An online fundraising campaign emerged in 2018 aimed at reopening Gage & Tollner, leading to renovations that graciously respected the restaurant’s historic charm. The landmark designation played a crucial role in ensuring that the original features were preserved, allowing Frizell and Schneider to revive the space, reminiscent of the vibrant atmosphere when martinis were served to the stylish clientele of the 1940s.

The Italianate four-story structure, constructed in the mid-1870s, showcases a neo-Grec wooden storefront, likely added when Gage & Tollner moved in after previously occupying another location on Fulton Street. Within the dining room, patrons can admire 36 gas-lit lamps (now converted to electric), silk brocade wall panels adorned with a Gilded Age fruit motif, and tall, arched mirrors framed in cherry wood that line three sides of the room. The original designer employed these mirrors as both decorative elements and practical artwork, contributing to the room’s grand aesthetic. Out front, Schneider faced the arduous task of completely reconstructing the original revolving door from 1919, as the walnut doors had understandably suffered from wear over the century.

The dining area has been lovingly restored with only slight modifications. New deep-red velvet banquets have been installed, along with modern restrooms and an updated kitchen. “We sanded and stained the floor, which had originally been carpeted,” Schneider explains, adding that they received approval for minor adjustments to optimize the bar station. “With permission from the landmarks commission, we expanded the bar. It transitioned from a cramped two-station setup to a more spacious two-and-a-half, nearing three-station bar.”

The newly extended bar stands out as a focal point of the restaurant, serving an impressive array of cocktails, including an extensive martini menu and beloved classics like Rob Roys and Sazeracs. These drinks fit seamlessly into the Victorian ambiance, pairing wonderfully with the raw bar selections and Parker House rolls. Enhancing the retro vibe, a vintage payphone sits adjacent to the bar; Frizell has ambitions to revive it to play a recorded history of the restaurant, piquing the curiosity of patrons who lift the receiver.

During its original tenure, the restaurant gained acclaim for hosting the celebrated Southern chef Edna Lewis from 1988 to 1992. Her culinary influence is evident in many dishes on the new menu, featuring her iconic recipes like creamy she-crab soup and fried chicken, alongside nostalgic favorites such as oysters Rockefeller and devils on horseback.

The grand opening was inevitably delayed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. “We essentially started with no operating capital because it had been fully utilized to secure the space,” Frizell acknowledges. Thankfully, the landlord showed leniency with much-reduced rent, although challenges remained.

After a 13-month hiatus related to the pandemic, Gage & Tollner finally opened its doors to a warm welcome and acclaimed reviews. The demand quickly surged, prompting the team to revitalize the second floor, transforming it into a tiki bar that launched in November 2021. The overwhelming interest demonstrates the resilience of New York City’s dining scene, alongside the historic charm inherent to the iconic structure housing Gage & Tollner.