Enjoy a Peaceful Weekend in Montauk Amid Growing Popularity

How my family found a quiet slice of one of the East Coast’s most popular summer destinations.

It was an oppressively hot afternoon in late August when I arrived in Montauk with my husband and our one-year-old son. Consequently, the baby was grumpy and restless, tired of being strapped into his car seat and no longer sated by snacks or distractions. We had just concluded a three-hour drive from Brooklyn, with the last third spent sitting in Hamptons traffic, through which my husband and I stared silently at the cars ahead. We barely registered the giant houses with their perfectly manicured lawns and white picket fences; instead, we prayed our child would keep napping for a little bit longer.

Finally, we pulled into the parking lot of Marram Montauk, a 1960s motel that was transformed into a chic beachside resort in 2019. The dunes in the courtyard were planted with tall marram grass that gives the hotel its name, and notably, the cedar paneling on the building’s exterior had already acquired a gentle patina from the salt air. Seagulls circled overhead, and the air was a few degrees cooler than it was in the city, yet the sun felt gloriously warm.

We checked in quickly and dumped our bags on the floor of our ocean-facing room before changing into our swimsuits and walking just a few paces down to the beach, where an attendant set us up with umbrellas and towels. The stifling humidity of the city was all but forgotten as I plunged into the ocean for the first time that summer. Our son, shaded by the wide umbrella, played happily in the sand. “There’s nothing better than this,” my husband said.

While Montauk has become yet another weekend destination for New York City’s wealthy, it continues to appeal to those who are decidedly not — thanks mainly to its bayside campgrounds and beloved beachfront motels. Moreover, it still manages to feel raw and unspoiled.

We first visited Montauk at the start of the pandemic, spending three glorious summer months at a friend’s house. The hamlet has a permanent population of around 4,000, though that number swells to almost 40,000 in summer. The name Montauk is derived from Montaukett, the Algonquian-speaking community that once lived on the land (today, almost none of their descendants remain in New York State).

The simple allure of the place captivated me, marked by the minimal distractions of shopping and high-end boutiques. Montauk has become a revered surf destination, mingling wealth with the comfort of camping — a delightful contrast that helps it maintain its rustic charm.

I was also intrigued by the cultural history of Montauk, which was a haven for artists in the late 1960s and ’70s. Notable residents included the playwright Edward Albee, who bought a house along the old Montauk Highway, and Andy Warhol, who invited notable figures to his expansive compound.

Montauk served as both inspiration and name for a 1974 novel by Swiss writer Max Frisch, who documented his experiences exploring the area. Frisch’s reflections evoke the essence of Montauk, with its unique charm captivating visitors and artists alike.

In its strange wildness, Montauk manages to conjure other parts of the world. Most notably, it has remained somewhat untouched, reflecting a history where it served as grazing land for livestock before development began in the 1920s. Consequently, people continue to retreat here to embrace its natural beauty.

Because the hamlet rests on the very tip of Long Island—a popular Instagram hashtag is #montaukendoftheworld—the waves seem rougher than elsewhere, and Montauk Point Light serves as a historical beacon guiding ships. Here, the full moon feels as if it hovers above you, while the relentless waves crash against the shore.

There is not much to do at Marram except relax, but for us, that wasn’t a problem. I feel compelled to mention that the hotel can arrange surf lessons and offers a morning yoga class, both of which I might have had the energy to do if I hadn’t been chasing and carrying a one-year-old around. For the next few days, we gave ourselves over to the rhythms of the sun and the sea.

In the mornings we explored Mostrador Marram, a restaurant worth a visit for its casual atmosphere and delicious offerings. We indulged in medialunas, an Argentine croissant, and a variety of pastries that perfectly complemented our beachside experience. We took turns watching our son and enjoying the beach before retreating to the pool where laughter filled the air.

However, there was more to explore, and we decided to pack our bags and venture east to Ditch Plains, a prime surf beach. This area allowed dogs in the early morning, captivating my toddler as we waited for breakfast burritos at Ditch Witch. As I gazed at the tall sand cliffs, I recalled the Montaukett people who once inhabited these lands, using them as lookout points.

By 8 a.m., Ditch Plains was bustling with energy, where polished New Yorkers and local surfers emerged from the water, creating a lively atmosphere that added to the charm of the beach.

Additionally, I spent time visiting the shops on Montauk’s main street, engaging with Quincy Davis, a notable surfer and owner of her store. Browsing through her offerings, I found myself drawn into the stories of the local community and their connections to this beautiful coastal haven.

For lunch, I visited Joni’s Kitchen, where Montauk native Joan Brosnan serves delicious smoothies and hearty meals. We took our beach gear to Gin Beach, where the tranquil waters offered a perfect escape for my son to explore and play.

As the sun set, I took a stroll along the beach to Montauk County Park, embraced by the charming scene of families enjoying their evening, reminiscent of my own childhood experiences in northern California.

As artists began migrating to the Hamptons, Montauk’s cultural identity flourished, becoming a haven for creativity and exploration. Today, Montauk boasts notable galleries like South Etna and the Ranch, further enriching the landscape with contemporary art.

Moreover, the rejuvenated artistic scene at the Ranch adds depth to Montauk’s charm, where visitors can immerse themselves in art while surrounded by the region’s natural beauty. Levai’s keen interest in history propels his passion for maintaining this unique connection between art and place.

As Levai and I walked through the cool, empty stables, he shared his obsession with Montauk history, particularly the story of Carl Fisher, who envisioned Montauk as a luxurious destination, reminiscent of Miami Beach. Despite the failed aspirations of the past, Montauk’s unique character has persisted, blending affluent tastes with the raw beauty of nature.

I reserved the final days of our trip for Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa, a storied seaside inn with weather-beaten cedar shingles and a backdrop of stunning ocean views. The sense of hospitality within the resort made our stay colorful and relaxing.

Gurney’s occupies one of the most glorious beaches on Long Island, and it was hard not to be swept away by its sheer size and the majesty of the view. The staff are attentive, enhancing the experience. In the evening, we savored dinner on the deck at Scarpetta Beach, where the atmosphere felt grand, a perfect conclusion to our trip.

Nevertheless, for me, Montauk’s allure will always reside in its remoteness and fascinating contradictions. I enjoyed the juxtaposition of being surrounded by equine art installations one moment while relishing the simplicity of summer traditions the next. Montauk’s unique character captures a spirit that I hope continues to flourish.

A version of this story first appeared in the August 2023 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “A Haven at the End of the World.”