Experiencing Portugal Travel During the COVID-19 Pandemic

From QR codes to new cleaning procedures and test requirements, here’s what I encountered while visiting Portugal amid the COVID-19 pandemic.

For U.S. travelers dreaming about a vacation in Portugal, it might be some time before that dream becomes a reality, as the country remains off-limits to Americans seeking nonessential travel.

However, Portugal seems to have a head start for if and when that time comes. I can say this from experience as I witnessed firsthand how public health and safety policies are being implemented—not only for the well-being of travelers but also for hospitality workers and locals.

While American tourists can’t visit Portugal now, I was permitted to travel there through a business exemption—as a journalist to observe and report on how Portuguese tourism was coping and preparing for reopening. I flew on TAP Air Portugal’s new nonstop route from Boston to Ponta Delgada, which ceased for the winter and will recommence in the spring. I traveled with Azores Getaways, first to São Miguel Island and Terceira Island in the Azores, and then for an overnight in Lisbon.

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To enter the Azores, Americans must provide proof of a negative COVID-19 RT-PCR test taken 72 hours before departure. Consequently, I scheduled two tests—the second one as a backup. I acquired travel insurance with coronavirus-related coverage, packed a ton of masks, and as much hand sanitizer as TSA sizing requirements would allow. Additionally, I prepared letters in English and Portuguese, explaining that I was there to observe how officials were responding to the coronavirus pandemic.

My preparation included uploading a Risk Assessment and Early Detection of SARS-CoV-2 questionnaire to receive a form with an identifying QR code that I had to bring along.

Moreover, I researched Turismo de Portugal’s Clean & Safe program, which awards a yearlong stamp of approval to tourism, hospitality, and entertainment businesses, including TAP, that comply with COVID-19-related hygiene and cleaning requirements. Importantly, Portugal was among the first destinations to receive the World Travel & Tourism Council’s “Safe Travels” endorsement in May.

After having my temperature and test results checked at the airport gate before boarding, I received an antibacterial wipe packet on my way to my seat. We were required to wear face masks during the flight, except during dinner. Plus, TAP’s fleet of new Airbus Neo aircraft features HEPA filters that clean the air several times a minute.

Exiting João Paulo II Airport on São Miguel Island felt almost post-apocalyptic. Hazmat suit-wearing workers directed us along a line similar to customs next to open-facing container workspaces. While traversing what I assumed was the line for negative test holders, I was directed to a counter. I presented my paperwork to an official, answered some questions, signed a document, and received the nod along with a slip of paper that permitted me to enter Terceira Island in a few days. The process was efficient, taking no more than 20 minutes.

At the Hotel Marina Atlântico, I encountered plexiglass windows between guests and the reception desk, with hand sanitizer bottles and stations throughout the common areas. A fixed seal on my room door indicated that it was cleaned, and no one had been inside since that cleaning; I would tear it upon entry. Inside my room, I noticed the TV remote was placed in a bag, as it is often prone to gathering germs.

In the hotel restaurant, as I found at other properties, masked waitstaff provided paper placemats with QR codes for accessing menus on our phones, along with cutlery sealed in bags.

At the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel in Furnas, the check-in process was notably shorter. Reception called guests in their rooms to provide details instead of reciting information on amenities at the desk. Two housekeeping teams were responsible for room cleaning; one would remove everything after checkout, while the other conducted cleaning and sanitization. In the restaurant, diners received a bag to store their face masks when eating—a much-appreciated gesture, especially since mine often ends up crushed in my pocket or purse.

The Terceira Mar Hotel had similar safeguards, plus a dropbox at the reception desk for sanitizing keys after checkout.

In Portugal, tourist attractions remained open but quiet, especially during the week of my visit. From Pico Do Carvão and Caldeira das Sete Cidades on São Miguel to Terceira Island’s Algar do Carvão and Gruta do Natal, I felt like we had the place to ourselves.

At dining establishments, patrons appeared comfortable eating indoors, as I observed one morning at Quinta dos Açores and at night at Taberna do Teatro on Terceira. At present, only five diners can sit at an indoor table; cafés and bars close between 8 and 11 p.m., and restaurants by 1 a.m..

In Lisbon, I found a varying number of people out and about on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Praça do Comércio was nearly empty, Time Out Market Lisboa was semi-vacant, and crowds at Avenida da Liberdade were scant. Portugal’s government has started requiring masks in busy outdoor spots.

At Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa, the property transitioned from offering their popular breakfast buffet to sit-down meal service, in addition to cleaning commonly used surfaces and objects several times a day. Importantly, the hotel reopened on July 31 after closing in late March.

Currently, guests are mainly traveling from Europe, according to Joana Jeunehomme, regional director of public relations for Minor Hotels Portugal, which includes Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa. She notes that public awareness of the measures being taken to ensure safety—such as temperature checks and sanitization practices—is key to the recovery of tourism.

I thoroughly enjoyed my first time in Portugal, but as a traveler, I will likely wait until further research advancements occur before returning. As public health regulations and travel policies continue to evolve, so too will our planning.

It’s crucial to follow updates on government websites and news reports before considering a trip. According to the Johns Hopkins Coronavirus Resource Center, Portugal has reported over 160,000 COVID-19 cases and more than 2,700 deaths.

With a final temperature check in Portugal, at the gate for my TAP flight from Lisbon to Newark, I wiped down my airplane seat area with peace of mind. Now, it’s onto quarantining and a follow-up test.