Zapata Ranch: A Peaceful Escape in Colorado

It’s late June and I’m zipping down an open stretch of Highway 150, a sparsely populated, high-desert swath of rugged southern Colorado terrain. About three and a half hours west of Denver, this rural corridor hugs the eastern tip of the mysterious San Luis Valley, flanked by the towering Sangre de Cristo Mountains. My destination: Zapata Ranch.

For years, I’d been following the ranch’s Instagram account, smitten by the photos of the region and its wildlife — in particular, the bison — not to mention, the fashionable wrangler attire. Much like my solo road trip along California’s Highway 1, I’d once again come to find solitude.

Experience Peace and Adventure at Zapata Ranch

I had a serious case of the blues — my mom had died a few months before, and I was looking to connect with nature in an immersive way. Because my mom loved the Cristo range and horses, it only seemed fitting that I came. The American West beckoned — not only for its low-tech, don’t-watch-the-clock ways but also for that languid, old-timey nostalgia.

Zapata Ranch, owned by The Nature Conservancy and managed by the conservation-minded Ranchlands, has more than 100,000 acres, including a sprawl of 2,000 free-roaming wild bison, 300 cattle, and a herd of working horses. Moreover, guests can explore Ranchlands’ participation in modern ranching practices.

Exploring the Ranch and Its Offerings

Pulling up, I was struck by the simplicity of the 15-room property. The main house, a historic 1800s homesteader surrounded by sturdy cottonwood trees, was perfectly suited for its setting. Comfortable seating, well-thumbed field guides, and woven rugs adorned the interiors. Outside, visitors could enjoy the mercantile, which offered chic leather belts, Guatemalan palm leaf hats, and organic lavender products from Albuquerque-based Los Poblanos. The dining room, lined with picture windows and long wooden tables, served delightful meals that highlighted the ranch’s organic bounty, including bison and trout from the nearby Arkansas River.

You don’t wind up at Ranchlands by accident. Most guests find the place after searching for an authentic experience away from golf and spa trappings. During my visit, I met a venturesome father and daughter duo training for the Mongol Derby, the world’s longest horse race, a woman from Munich seeking a rigorous riding program, and other adventurers. Consequently, the shared love of adventure travel, horsemanship, and community was palpable.

Activities and Experiences Available

Over the next three days, I went out on horseback in small, intimate groups where wranglers encouraged freestyle riding during the three-hour-plus excursions. My first ride was on the Zapata side of the ranch, where I spotted deer, jackrabbits, and a lone coyote. The following morning, on the robust horse named Little Richard, I was in awe of the wild bison roaming free.

If horses aren’t your thing, additional activities include a hike to nearby Zapata Falls for breathtaking valley views, rock-climbing excursions, fly fishing, whitewater rafting down the Arkansas River, and soaking in natural hot springs, revered by native Ute tribes for their healing properties. Furthermore, there are workshops in photography, writing, and painting available, providing options for creative exploration.

A Personal Journey of Healing

On my last morning, I took a small velvet satchel of my mom’s ashes and spread some under a juniper tree, behind the shadow of her beloved Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Leaving the ranch, I no longer felt blue because I now had a handful of new adventures, friends, and a cherished memory of my mom intertwined with the land. This experience beautifully encapsulated the natural rhythm of life, connecting me deeply with nature and community.