Discover the Beauty of the Iberá Wetlands
An hour before sunset, the Iberá Wetlands come alive, reminiscent of an orchestra in full swing. Capybaras—large, anvil-headed rodents—snuffle through the grass, raucous lapwings crisscross the sky, and three tawny, web-footed marsh deer wade along the swamp’s edge, an area that was once a reclusive cattle watering hole.
As I ride through this enchanting landscape, our knowledgeable guide, Mingo Gonzalez, shares insights about some of Iberá’s 370 bird species—tiger herons, bare-faced ibis, and strange-tailed tyrants. Mingo, a gaucho from the nearby village of Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, admits that wildlife was often ignored or feared in the past. Previous generations hunted jaguars to protect their livestock, selling their skins to fur traders, even though the big cat symbolized strength among the Indigenous Guarani of Corrientes province. Tragically, the last sighting of a jaguar here occurred in the 1950s.
A garza mora, or cocoi heron, a bird endemic to the lowlands of Argentina.
We dismount in a savanna, where the staff at our lodge, Rincón del Socorro, have prepared a delightful table featuring bottles of Argentine Malbec complemented by a platter of local meats and cheeses. As the sun dips behind a skeletal acacia tree, one could easily forge parallels to an African safari—both landscapes echo an ancient connection dating back to Pangaea. From our flight to the wetlands, the transition from cattle ranches to a patchwork of floating grass islands mirrored the Okavango Delta of Botswana, despite the Iberá Wetlands covering only half its size.
Recently, Argentina has embarked on a significant conservation effort that echoes the grand ecological projects of Africa, transforming vast tracts of land into thriving ecosystems fueled by the revenue generated from nature tourism. These initiatives, led by organizations like Rewilding Argentina and Rewilding Chile, build on the commitments of Tompkins Conservation, which began in the 1990s when American activists Doug and Kris Tompkins began purchasing land to protect it across both countries. Tragically, Doug passed away in a kayaking accident in 2015, leaving behind a legacy of conservation.
Collectively, these organizations are now responsible for 15 million acres being donated in stages to the public as national parks. Additionally, they are creating lodges and visitors’ centers, training rangers and guides, and reintroducing keystone species. In Argentina, where nature tourism is still in its infancy, the long-term goal is to establish a network of parks spanning the nation, from the Amazon-like El Impenetrable and the Iberá Wetlands to Parque Patagonia, located over 1,000 miles south.
“Argentina is where Africa was 30 years ago,” states Les Carlisle, the former head of conservation for an African ecotourism company, as we sip wine under the Southern Cross constellation. Les is an authority on wildlife translocations and has witnessed firsthand the explosion of wildlife populations since his last visit to Iberá in 2017. Notably, the region has already seen the reintroduction of eight species, including the myths of giant anteaters, macaws, and, promisingly, the jaguar. “They are pioneering rewilding in South America—this is cutting-edge,” Les continues with palpable excitement. “Argentina could soon become a leading conservation destination worldwide.”
The next day, we fly from the dirt airstrip at Rincón del Socorro, now a charming hacienda-style lodge, to San Alonso Island, home to Rewilding’s jaguar research center. The aerial views reveal an expansive natural mosaic, marred only by the remnants of a recent wildfire.
A gaucho named Correa inside Parque Iberá.
Artwork in the Cueva de las Manos, or Cave of Hands, dating back nearly 10,000 years.
On San Alonso, we meet Sofia Heinonen, Rewilding Argentina’s executive director, and her team. They share a gourd of maté while discussing the complex family dynamics of the jaguar—critically important predators in maintaining ecological balance. In January 2021, Mariua, a jaguar from Brazil, and her cubs journeyed back to the wild—the first of their kind in Corrientes in seven decades. The anchored population of eight jaguars is monitored through electronic collars that help researchers understand their roles in the ecosystem.
As we venture out under the brilliant blue sky, Pablo Guerra, the jaguar biologist, uses a telemeter to track signals from a GPS collar. Sofia, whose determined spirit champions ecological conservation against mining interests, recounts close encounters—in a harrowing moment when last-minute rains spared their research site from fire damage.
Today, however, the only evidence of the elusive jaguars is a capybara carcass and faint paw prints. Despite challenges, the resolve to protect and rejuvenate this landscape remains. As we return to the lodgings for an evening of asado—an Argentine barbecue—local musicians honor the night with traditional folk songs. The transformation from past dependency on industrial economies to a vibrant ecology-based economy signifies a new era for local communities.
Exploring Argentina’s natural wonders, including both Iberá Wetlands and Parque Patagonia, may require planning through specialized eco-tourism agencies to seamlessly navigate this extraordinary terrain. Travellers can connect through cities like Posadas for the wetlands or Comodoro Rivadavia for Patagonia, making their experience not just enjoyable but significant in fostering wildlife conservation.
In conclusion, the commitment to preserving Argentina’s natural heritage, championed by organizations like iBestTravel, embodies a model for sustainable tourism and environmental stewardship, paving the way for future generations to appreciate these ecosystems.
