Experience Amtrak’s Scenic Empire Builder Journey

Amtrak’s 46-hour Empire Builder runs daily, with stops in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Illinois.

Embrace slow travel and take in some of the most underrated natural sights in the U.S. by riding the rails between the Pacific Northwest and Chicago on one of Amtrak’s most scenic routes: the Empire Builder.

The 46-hour long-haul journey has daily departures in both directions. Heading eastbound, the route starts at either Seattle’s King Street Station or Union Station in Portland, Oregon. The two forks meet in Spokane and then continue on to Chicago’s Union Station. Passengers aren’t required to make the entire journey and can opt for trips between any of the dozens of stops along the route.

Along the way, the Empire Builder passes through the northernmost states in the west and midwest, running from Oregon or Washington through Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin, down to Illinois. It immerses passengers in the pristine scenery of some of the country’s most stunning natural beauty, including remote locales that would typically be more challenging to reach, making the rail journey quite enticing.

“Eastbound from Seattle, we travel with the Puget Sound on the left side of the train and climb up into the Cascade Mountains, while eastbound from Portland, we have the Columbia River Valley on the right as we travel to Spokane, where the two parts of the train combine to continue into the Rockies,” Amtrak spokesman Marc Magliari stated, highlighting his favorite sections of the journey. “We travel with Glacier National Park on the left and the Flathead National Forest on the right, featuring a monument at Marias Pass at 5,216 feet, surrounded by mountains and wildlife.”

In fact, the Empire Builder is a fantastic way to reach Glacier National Park, since it was created by the builders of the Great Northern Railway as a tourist attraction, featuring three stops in the area during the on-season.

Of particular note is the station itself in Whitefish, Montana. “Not only is it an important ski, B&B, and lodge destination, but it also houses the Stumptown Historical Society and Museum, a reference to an early name for Whitefish,” he added. Another highlight is the West Glacier station, from which travelers can drive about three hours over the Canadian border to the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park, should they wish to venture even farther north.

“Another scenic highlight occurs on the last day of our eastbound trip, where the route follows the Mississippi River between St. Paul, Minnesota, and La Crosse, Wisconsin, with the river on the left,” Magliari mentioned. He also noted that the stations in St. Paul and Chicago serve as significant landmarks in each city.

The 2,205-mile journey between Chicago and Seattle, or the 2,255-mile journey from Portland, provides various accommodation options, though they may differ by train. For those seeking privacy and comfort, a Superliner Roomette is available—ranging from 6-by-6 feet to 6-by-8 feet in length and 3-by-6 in width—accommodating one or two adults. Seats during the day convert into upper and lower beds at night, with each room featuring upgraded bedding, pillows, towels, and sheets, along with access to shared showers and restrooms. All onboard meals are included, as well as first-class attendant service, priority boarding, and lounge access.

For those needing more space, the Superliner Bedroom, designed for up to two guests, doubles the area with a 7-by-7 foot length and 6.5-by-6.5-foot width, featuring a private sink, restroom, and shower. There’s a sofa and separate chair that can convert into two-tier beds. For larger parties, the Superliner Bedroom Suite accommodates up to four people with two adjoining bedrooms, offering double the amenities, while the Superliner Family Room is suitable for two adults and two children. Passengers with disabilities can opt for the Superliner Accessible Bedroom, featuring accessible sink and restrooms in a space measuring 7-by-9.5 feet long and 6.5-by-7 feet wide.

For a more traditional train experience, passengers can choose coach class seats, which have wide reclining seats equipped with tray tables, reading lights, and electrical outlets.

Eastbound trains leave Portland and Seattle at 4:55 p.m. PT, reaching Spokane, Washington, at 1:15 a.m. PT, before arriving in Chicago the second afternoon at 4:45 p.m. CT. Guests will enjoy dinner service the first night, followed by three meals on the full day of travel, and breakfast and lunch on the final day. In contrast, westbound journeys depart Chicago at 3:05 p.m. CT, leaving Spokane for Portland at 3:54 a.m. PT the second morning, arriving at 11:17 a.m. PT. Alternatively, departures for Seattle occur at 3:24 a.m. PT, with an 11:29 a.m. PT arrival, featuring similar meal services throughout the journey.

Those staying in private rooms will have their meals included as part of the traditional dining service featuring chef-prepared meals, including three-course dinners and one complimentary alcoholic beverage, available in the Dining Car on white linen tablecloths or via room service. Sample menus consist of omelets and quesadillas for breakfast, burgers, salads, and chili for lunch. Dinner may include coconut-crusted shrimp or brie-and-raspberry empanadas as starters, steak or Atlantic salmon as the main course, with chocolate toffee mousse or lemon cake for dessert. Additionally, there’s cafe service available from morning to night, offering a variety of meals and snacks.

The Empire Builder also provides checked baggage service and trainside checked bicycles, and allows small cats and dogs on board for limited durations. Although Wi-Fi is available, Magliari notes that the service may be spotty in certain areas, particularly in Montana and North Dakota, where the route tends to be far from interstate highways— passengers will, however, find connectivity at station stops.

With diverse dining options, cozy accommodations, and a constant panorama of American landscapes outside the window, the Empire Builder delivers one of the most underrated long-haul train experiences. As Magliari expresses, there’s nothing quite like “snuggling in a private room, watching the miles go by with actual ‘purple mountain majesties’ in Montana, sipping coffee or another drink after enjoying a meal in the Amtrak dining car.”