Summary
Fall comes twice in this part of the U.S. — and it’s extra spectacular along the shoreline.
The fall colors in Minnesota don’t get the attention of the foliage in Vermont or Maine; however, while every other leaf peeper heads east this autumn, our tip is to head north, where fall comes twice. Along Minnesota’s North Shore, which runs along Lake Superior between Duluth, Minnesota, and the Canadian border, there are two distinct fall foliage seasons: the colorful maple trees in the mountains, followed by the aspen and birch trees that run along the shore.
It’s all easy to see along the North Shore’s scenic byway, which stretches 154 miles along the shoreline between Duluth and Grand Portage, Minnesota, near the Canadian border. In fact, the drive is so spectacular, it was designated as an “All-American Road” by the U.S. Secretary of Transportation.
Along the way, road trippers wind their way along the Lake Superior shoreline, where waves crash against jagged cliffs and waterfalls tumble into the great lake. The route passes a whopping eight state parks and a handful of small shoreline towns known for their local fish and lakefront views. As an added plus, the cool fall weather makes hopping out of the car for a hike in the Superior National Forest more appealing.
Here’s what to see and do along the scenic byway, including cool places to stay for the night and side trips worth the effort.
What to Do and See Along the Route
We recommend that you start your journey in Duluth, which is home to North America’s largest freshwater estuary, a 12,000-acre wetland that is in the final stages of restoration and is a great place for kayaking and canoeing. If you’re looking to visit the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness — which is arguably the North Shore’s biggest draw — turn off at Two Harbors, Minnesota, and head north.
However, to continue on the scenic byway, pass through Two Harbors until you reach the pebbly shores of Kelsey Beach, which is also the perfect place to enjoy a slice of pie from Betty’s — more on that later. From the beach, you’ll drive through Gooseberry State Park and Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, home to the iconic Split Rock Lighthouse, one of the most photographed and visited spots in the state.
From the lighthouse, it’s just another 20 minutes to Tettegouche State Park, which is home to some of the state’s biggest waterfalls. It’s a great place to stretch your legs on the trail that runs along the cliffs or to hike the Cascade Trail to the Cascades Waterfall. From there, you’ll pass through Caribou Falls State Wayside and Temperance River State Park before reaching Lutsen, a tiny town with a ski area that transforms into a summer and fall mountain haven when the weather warms. Here, you can ride the Summit Express gondola for a bird’s-eye view of the lake, mountain bike, or hop on the adrenaline-inducing alpine slide.
The coastal town of Grand Marais is the next big stop. The small community has a surprisingly good food scene and a robust art community that includes the renowned North House Folk School, where you can learn traditional northern crafts. Continuing on, you’ll be treated to great views of Tombolo, one of the lake’s iconic North Shore islands, before you reach the town of Grand Portage at the end of the route.
Where to Stay
You can drive the entire route in just around the hours, but to really enjoy the North Shore (and this iconic drive), we recommend splitting the trip into a couple of days. In Duluth, rest your head at Solglimt, a five-room bed-and-breakfast with Lake Superior beach access, or the waterfront Fitger’s Hotel.
Midway through the route, consider a night at The Mayhew Inn in Grand Marais, which has expansive rooftop decks with views of the harbor and The Gunflint Trail (another local must-do).
There are also plenty of campgrounds en route, providing a great opportunity to connect with nature.
Where to Eat
In Duluth, don’t miss a trip to Lake Superior Brewing, which underwent a reinvention in 2022 and now has a fresh location and an expanded menu. Their Smashburger is a local favorite.
Further down the road is the New Scenic Café, an intimate, Scandinavian-inspired restaurant with a garden and lake views directly off the scenic byway. Nearby, across the street from Kelsey’s Beach north of Two Harbors is Betty’s Pies, a world-famous pie destination that’s been open since 1956.
In Grand Marais, there are two spots well worth a visit. The Fisherman’s Daughter doles out baskets of “dock-to-table fish + chips,” as well as fish tacos, beer-battered fries, and tater tots. Nearby, the Angry Trout Cafe offers lakefront indoor-outdoor dining out of an old commercial fishing shanty.
When to Go
The best time to drive the North Shore scenic byway is in the fall when the weather has cooled and the fall colors start to pop. The maple trees found in the Sawtooth Mountains tend to change first, typically reaching their peak in mid-September and continuing through early October. Along the shoreline of Lake Superior, where road trippers will be spending most of their time, the aspens and birch trees tend to peak between late September and mid-October.
