R.O. Kwon’s Ultimate Food and Shopping Guide to Seoul

1. Overview

This article explores the vibrant culture, culinary delights, and art scene of Seoul as experienced by author R.O. Kwon, a native of the city, during her recent visit.

2. The Allure of Seoul

Over the past few years, Korean culture has been captivating every corner of the globe. Here’s how Korean-born author R.O. Kwon visits her home city. Seoul might be the most stunning city in the world. Not everyone may agree; it’s the city of my birth, so I may be a little biased. And yet, this spring, I was there, walking along the city wall, which was first built in 1396, and gazing at the jumbled skyline. It’s a gloriously chaotic tumult of tall, shining buildings and tiled hanok roofs, all of it surrounded by mountains. Cherry trees had burst forth, a frothing revel of short-lived blossoms. Wind stirred the boughs, lace-pink petals nodding as though saying yes to my renewed faith: there isn’t a more beautiful place to be on earth.

3. Cultural Renaissance

Despite any doubts regarding my secret opinion about Seoul, it’s indisputable that many people—including Koreans, travelers from abroad, and diasporic Koreans like myself—consider it an especially thrilling city to visit these days. Seoul has emerged as a hub of food, art, film, television, literature, beauty, and fashion. Some of this energy is driven by the Korean cultural wave, fueled by the success of BTS, Blackpink, Squid Game, Parasite, and a wealth of K-pop and K-dramas, highlighting the local culture to the world.

4. Returning Home

Excited yet fretful, I returned to my birthplace. I left Seoul with my family when I was three years old and have lived in various cities, such as Los Angeles and San Francisco. Ever since my first trip back at the age of 12, I’ve felt vexed by the knowledge that I’m also foreign to Seoul. Regardless, I embarked on this journey filled with nostalgia and apprehension.

In one of the first taxis I took, the driver and I talked. He noted the increasing presence of gyopo, or diasporic Koreans, in Seoul these days. He praised my Korean, saying, “You’re fluent.” I was touched by his kindness amid my feelings of inadequacy.

5. Culinary Adventures

One must-visit place was Mongtan, a wildly popular barbecue restaurant that opened in Yongsan in 2019. Guests are required to get on the waiting list in person for the day of the meal. Arriving early, I was thrilled when my table was ready upon return from a stroll along the city wall.

Mongtan was buzzing; the atmosphere was lively, and the tables were full of diners enjoying their meals. I ordered the signature dish, udae kalbi, or beef rib. Its succulent flavors combined with the delightful banchan made for an extraordinary dining experience. I savored every bite, finding the frozen minced kimchi especially unforgettable.

Though I would have left satisfied just with the banchan, the kalbi was exquisite. The attentive waiter guided me on how to experience the full flavors of the dish, which felt both nourishing and comforting—a reminder of family gatherings.

6. A Night Out in Gangnam

Later that night, I explored some of Gangnam’s innovative cocktail bars. My first stop was Le Chamber, a speakeasy hidden behind a faux library facade. The cocktail artistry being crafted was unparalleled, with bartenders dedicated to their craft; many have made a name for themselves in competitions.

Next, I ventured to Zest, known for its sustainable practices and creative cocktails made with locally sourced ingredients. The experience was refreshing; discussing innovative techniques with the bartenders deepened my appreciation for Seoul’s evolving cocktail culture.

7. A Culinary Journey

Returning to tradition, I dined at Eatanic Garden, a serene restaurant featuring cuisine that melds nostalgia and innovation. Chef Jongwon Son creates dishes that highlight seasonal ingredients, leading to a dining experience that is as much about memory as it is about exquisite flavors.

8. Art and Culture

After lunch, I visited Art Sonje Center, which focuses on young and emerging artists in Korea. The growing art scene in Seoul is garnering international attention, making it an exciting time to be in the city. With exhibitions that inspire conversation and reflection, it’s a destination for art lovers.

9. Final Thoughts

Making my way back to my hotel, Signiel Seoul, I marveled at the views of the bustling city from the 94th floor of the tallest building in South Korea. The view was an artwork in itself, mesmerizing and tranquil. The city’s blend of skyscrapers and nature provides a backdrop that highlights the beauty of Seoul.