Why Skiing the World’s Toughest Slopes is a Must-Do Adventure

Nestled in Switzerland’s 4 Vallées region, Nendaz ski resort is the ultimate destination for beginners and families.

“It’s just a little snow. It’s just a little snow, Vanessa.” These were the words I repeated to myself over and over again as I peered into the vast white terrain ahead of me.

Perched on the edge of a sinuous Swiss mountain, with nowhere to go but down, it was time to show off what I’d learned over the last few days. Naturally, all I could think about were the numerous wipeouts I’d endured during my training, leaving me wildly unconfident in my chances of making it off this hilly slope in one piece. “You can do this,” I repeated to myself. “It’s just a little snow.”

Before this week, the closest I’d ever gotten to skiing was watching the Winter Olympics on television. It was an experience I’d always hoped to try, so when Switzerland Tourism invited me to explore the country as a first-time skier, I jumped at the opportunity and headed to Switzerland to learn from the very best.

After a long travel day that included an international flight, three trains, and one final bus, I arrived in the small town of Nendaz, a charming ski resort in the heart of Switzerland’s 4 Vallées (Valleys) in the Valais region. Snow-covered chalets and gorgeous mountains greeted me as I arrived at my hotel, Les Etagnes, just in time for dinner. As I headed to the dining room, I stumbled into a lively après-ski at the hotel’s Cheersbar, where friendly Swiss locals shouted, “Welcome to Switzerland!” As tempting as it was to join in on the fun, I knew I had a big day ahead of me, so I turned in early to get a good night’s rest before my first ski lesson.

Ski Lessons with Amandus Amacker

The following day, I bundled up in my sleek snow gear and headed to the Tracouet area in the center of Haute-Nendaz to meet my instructor, Amandus Amacker. Swarms of enthusiastic skiers and snowboarders buzzed around the entrance of the ski station, but sporting a fire engine red instructor’s suit, Amacker stuck out among the crowds.

At 67, Amacker was much older than the other instructors, and as I weaved through the chaotic scene to introduce myself, his warm smile and soft presence immediately relieved some of my initial nerves about hitting the slopes. Nearly everyone in Nendaz knows Amacker, who boasts over 45 years of experience. Even the employee who rented me my ski gear remarked that Amacker had taught him to ski as a child.

While I was grateful to have a true professional teaching me the ropes, Amacker could see the sheer terror on my face as we boarded the gondola because one of the first things he said was, “Don’t panic, it’s just a little snow!” Still skeptical, I tried to smile through the stress, and we continued up the slope for my first day of lessons.

We started on flat snow, where Amacker covered the very basics of skiing. From getting in and out of my boots to walking with skis on, the first hour of my lesson didn’t involve any skiing at all. Soon enough, however, it was time to practice gliding. After pushing off my poles, I felt my skis glide a few inches, but then fear kicked in, and I panicked, looking up at Amacker for help. I confessed I was terrified of falling. “Why are you afraid of falling?” he asked bluntly. “If you fall, you fall. It’s just snow!” He had a point, and I eventually managed to get a handle on the basic glide. Once we both felt I had the basics down, I moved on to the Bunny Slope.

I shuffled to the back of the line behind tiny children from the Swiss Ski School. It was quite a sight – me practicing my “pizzas” and “French fries” with other beginners, some as young as three years old. Amacker and the other instructors cheered us on, even when we ended up face-down in the snow. When you fall, you get back up and try again—an important lesson at any age.

For the next few days, I worked on maintaining a steady ski pace, learning to speed up, slow down, and stop—without falling. My biggest challenge came when I tried to add turns to my repertoire. I struggled to turn as Amacker instructed, feeling like a toddler trying to walk in her mother’s heels as I wobbled into the turns.

Amacker, ever patient, explained it differently. “Other sports are fast and bold, like rock and roll, but skiing is smooth, like a waltz,” he said, waving his hands like a conductor. With this analogy in mind, and my mental block about falling slowly melting away, I persevered, and after hours of trying, I finally got my turns down.

My Skiing Experience

On my last day of lessons, instead of heading back to Tracouet, Amacker took me to the Ski Station Les 4 Vallées for my final lesson. “Today, we ski from there,” he noted, pointing at the peaks of the sweeping mountain above us. I looked at him in disbelief while he chuckled at my instant panic. “Don’t worry,” he reassured me. “I wouldn’t take you here if I didn’t think you could do it.”

So there I was, standing on the biggest slope I’d tackled yet, mustering up the courage to ski down by reminding myself that even if I fell, it was just a little snow. With a deep breath (and a gentle nudge from Amacker), I pushed off and started skiing down the mountain. It wasn’t a perfect run and it certainly wasn’t fast, but using the skills I’d learned, I miraculously made it to the base without falling once. Amacker even took a video of me as I carved my way down, showing visual proof of my improvement from just three days prior.

“Excellent work, I knew you could do it!” Amacker exclaimed when we reached the bottom. His triumphant smile was contagious, and soon we were both grinning and celebrating my achievement. As I said goodbye to Nendaz, I felt immense gratitude for such an incredible first skiing experience and vowed that while it was my first time, it wouldn’t be my last.

What We Like About Nendaz

With access to around 255 miles of ski runs (about a third of which are blue pistes), Nendaz is ideal for beginner and intermediate skiers. Newbies can hone their technique in three beginner areas, while powder hounds can tour the ungroomed slopes of Mont-Fort, which reach nearly 11,000 feet. A number of ski schools cater to snow enthusiasts of all ages and abilities, making this one of Switzerland’s most family-friendly ski areas. Off the slopes, visitors can enjoy the world’s highest zip lines, sledding tracks, and snow tubing areas, ensuring non-skiers also have plenty of entertainment.

When to Go

The 4 Vallées ski area is open from November to May, depending on snow conditions. Lift openings vary by region, but gondolas typically operate between mid-December and mid-April. January and February are typically the snowiest months, but travelers visiting in March or early April may enjoy less crowded runs. For a special event, the Nendaz Freeride competition generally takes place from early January to early March.

Where to Stay in Nendaz

Les Etagnes

Les Etagnes is steps away from lift access and offers ski-in, ski-out convenience. With only nine mountain-view rooms, including connecting suites, and an excellent restaurant with a kid’s menu, the property is perfect for families and groups wanting to stay close to the slopes.

Hôtel Nendaz 4 Vallées & Spa

If you’re seeking pampering between ski days, consider staying at Hôtel Nendaz 4 Vallées & Spa. This 4-star resort is renowned for its 62 luxury guest rooms, upscale restaurants, and especially its Spa des Bisses, featuring multiple saunas, a steam bath, an ice cave, and more.

Mad Mount Hotel

Mad Mount Hotel is a modern boutique property just a five-minute walk from the Tracouet gondola. This carbon-negative hotel features 28 rooms with sustainable, alpine cabin-inspired décor (think clean lines and locally sourced wood). Amenities include a sleek spa with saunas and hot tubs, as well as a bright restaurant and bar.

Where to Eat

Restaurant Le Raccard

For traditional Swiss fare, try Restaurant Le Raccard. Conveniently located in the center of Haute-Nendaz, this restaurant offers mouthwatering meat and cheese fondue to help refuel after a long day on the slopes.

Mont-Rouge

If you prefer something a bit fancier, consider Mont-Rouge, which offers an elegant yet cozy atmosphere perfect for a date night. The restaurant’s menu features creatively presented French and Swiss dishes, made with local produce — earning it a Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.

Grill Mountain

For meat lovers, snag a table at Grill Mountain, where you can select and cook your own meat on a Himalayan salt block. With a lively atmosphere and a butcher shop-style vitrine packed with locally sourced meats, dining here is both fun and interactive.

Where to Après Ski

Edelweiss

Located in the heart of Haute-Nendaz, Edelweiss is the go-to spot for an exciting après-ski experience. This lively venue is known for its live music, daily DJ sets, and happy hours — you can hear the skiers and snowboarders dancing from a distance.

Cheersbar

For a more intimate experience after skiing, try the cozy Cheersbar, conveniently located next to the Tracouet lift. Relax here with a cup of vin chaud (mulled wine) after a day on the slopes.

Le Bob

Located off the blue run heading down to Nendaz, Le Bob is an on-slope bar worth stopping for. Enjoy a beer on the sunny terrace overlooking the valley and, if timed right, catch a spectacular sunset.

Off-Mountain Activities

Beyond skiing and snowboarding, numerous ways exist to explore the winter wonderland of the 4 Vallées. Skate on the outdoor rink at Nendaz resort, appreciate local culture at the Nînd’Art gallery, or embark on a thrilling tandem paragliding adventure with Element’Air. Cross-country skiing enthusiasts can also enjoy trails through the Pra da Dzeu meadow and Prachavio forest.

How to Ride

Tickets

Daily or weekly lift tickets, along with annual passes, can be purchased in advance online at a discount. Since the 4 Vallées ski area is extensive, lift tickets are divided by zones, though access to the entire domain is also available. Day passes for the Printse sector, which connects Nendaz, Veysonnaz, and Thyon, start at 58 Swiss Francs (around $65), while tickets for the entire ski area begin at 69 Swiss Francs (about $77).

Rentals

A variety of equipment stores offer daily and weekly ski and snowboard rentals. Favorites include Intersport – Ski Service, which also provides lockers, and OnTheMountain, known for its boot fitting workshop, ski and snowboard repair center, as well as ski school.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Boasting 205 marked runs serviced by nearly 100 lifts, 4 Vallées is one of the largest ski areas in Switzerland, rivaling destinations like Andermatt and Zermatt. The trails comprise two green runs (beginner), 77 blue (easy), 106 red (intermediate), and 20 black (expert).

Ski School Programming

Five ski schools in Nendaz cater to skiers of all levels. First-timers and families often enroll in the Swiss Ski School, which has been in operation for over 50 years, offering a range of private and group lessons (including a mini kids’ club for children ages two and a half to four). For advanced skiers, Neige Aventure Ski School offers ski touring lessons and workshops designed to elevate your skills.