Discover the Enigmatic Beauty of Socotra

A rare glimpse of the hallucinatory landscapes and distinctive culture of Socotra, the Yemeni Island that remains tantalisingly untethered from the rest of the world.

29 October 2023

It doesn’t take long to feel the unique energy of Socotra: Black, grey, and cigarette-butt orange hues reflect the island’s stunning landscapes. Having landed only an hour before, the drive across empty coastal plains leads us to the vast, unbroken horizons of the Diksam Plateau. Stopping at a small cave overlooking a steep-sided, red-sandstone gorge, we are treated to a distant view into a gothic-black abyss. Our guide, Ahmed Saeed Suliman, stands beneath a dragon’s blood tree, sharing insight into its mythical properties and eerily blood-colored resin.

The Alluring Mystique of Socotra’s Nature

“Its smoke is used to chase devils… bad jinn… from the house,” Suliman explains, using the local term for spirits. The age of the dragon’s blood tree is as astounding as its appearance – it is over twice as old as the US independence and as significant as the Mona Lisa. “Yes,” Suliman agrees, “Middle-aged.”

Suddenly, the sky is alive with the sight of vultures, their silent but calculated presence creating an electric atmosphere. We scurry around and burst into laughter before settling down for a lunch of flatbread and beans. Looking across the gorge, we embrace the deep, preindustrial stillness of Socotra, captivated by its beguiling sense of otherness.

Adventure Awaits in Socotra

I’ve visited Socotra, celebrated for its curious endemic flora and remarkable geography, alongside explorer Henry Cookson, who aims to design an exclusive journey for adventurous travelers. Socotra feels like an untouched gem, and Cookson’s excitement is palpable. “There aren’t many places like this left in the world,” he states, highlighting the island’s reclusive nature and the challenges of accessibility.

Getting to Socotra

Socotra’s seclusion is part of its allure, but it remains stubbornly hard to access. It has only recently opened its door slightly ajar to the world. The island, often referred to as the “Galápagos of the Indian Ocean,” has seen visitor numbers dwindle to around 3,000 annually, primarily through a limited, often unreliable flight from Abu Dhabi.

Moreover, Yemen’s ongoing civil war presents further challenges. The UK Foreign Office advises against all but essential travel to Yemen, and the nearby risks of piracy add to concerns. However, these deterrents contribute to Socotra’s untouched beauty.

What Makes Socotra Unique?

With a population of only around 60,000, Socotra has retained its ancient charm and beauty. The ongoing rumors of development by the UAE’s control paint a precarious future for this isolated paradise. Each day presents an opportunity to explore Socotra’s mesmerizing scenery, where the surreal landscapes seem caught in time.

Camping Amidst Nature’s Splendor

After a long drive, we reach our camp nestled deep in the Firhmin Forest. Surrounded by mushroom-shaped dragon’s blood trees and bathed in the soft glow of evening light, the landscape feels other-worldly. Walking along the edge of the escarpment, the treetops resembling velcro provide an intriguing texture to the land, creating a unique visual experience.

Connecting with Local Culture

In the evening, our local hosts sacrifice a goat for us. Over a shared meal, Cookson shares experiences that have driven him to create an adventure-travel company, revealing his passion for uncovering remote corners of the globe. Conversations shift as we prepare for a camel-assisted hike to the Hajhir mountains, a stunning combination of culture and adventure.

Exploring the Wonders of Socotra

During hikes, visitors can witness the island’s rare flora, including croton and frankincense trees. Additionally, discussions about the impact of qat, a popular local shrub, open conversations about the balance between tradition and economic opportunities in Yemen.

As we ascend the rocky trails, the day’s sun sets behind jagged peaks, creating a mesmerizing backdrop for stories shared around the campfire, enriched by the warmth and camaraderie of local guides.

Relishing Socotra’s Untamed Beauty

On another day, exploration continues along Socotra’s picturesque coast, where dolphin pods dance in the shimmering waters. Experiencing the serenity of remote shorelines captivates the heart and soul. Socotra, with its natural beauty and rich culture, remains a true refuge for those seeking adventure and solace in isolation.

In conclusion, Socotra stands as a remarkable testament to nature’s artistry and humanity’s connection to the ancient world. For travelers seeking an authentic experience, the island offers an unforgettable journey into breathtaking landscapes that evoke awe and reverence for nature.