Celebrating 30 Years of Culinary Revolution at St John
As St John restaurant marks its 30th anniversary, Noo Saro-Wiwa discusses its profound influence on Britain’s culinary landscape.
26 September 2024
The Evolution of Britain’s Fine Dining
Some revolutions are explosive, while others unfold quietly, as evidenced by London’s fine dining transformation since 1994. St John, founded by Trevor Gulliver and Fergus Henderson, has redefined culinary standards in this vibrant city.
A New Approach to Dining
The restaurant, celebrating its 30-year milestone, has fundamentally changed how we perceive food. It emerged in a mid-90s upscale dining scene dominated by extravagant presentations and avant-garde techniques. By adopting a ‘nose-to-tail’ philosophy, St John simplified fine dining.
Innovative Culinary Philosophy
Henderson championed the belief that every part of an animal, especially pig, should be utilized effectively. With innovative dishes featuring offal and often-overlooked cuts, St John showcased flavors that enriched the dining experience. Think roasted marrow bones with toast and the unique pig’s ear soup.
Simple Yet Impactful Execution
Thomas Blythe, St John’s general manager for 12 years, noted the restaurant’s confident presentation and straightforward menu. This clarity facilitated a deeper connection between diners and their meals.
Overcoming Initial Challenges
Despite starting in a less favorable location with minimal foot traffic, the duo established a loyal clientele. Initially hosting just 10 diners on busy nights, they persevered through lower rents, allowing flexibility for unconventional approaches.
The Enduring Legacy of St John
The restaurant became a favorite among celebrities and food enthusiasts alike, gaining prestige through the endorsement of culinary icons, including Anthony Bourdain. This boosted its status to legendary proportions.
A Supportive Workplace Culture
Henderson’s approach extended to staff management; the environment at St John was described as family-oriented, fostering relationships among all personnel. Such a culture has contributed to the low turnover, with many employees remaining for over a decade.
30 Years of Consistency and Evolution
Recently, St John celebrated its 30th anniversary, reflecting on its evolution whilst remaining rooted in its original ethos. Blythe remarked on the restaurant’s consistent approach, which has captivated diners through changing times.
The Influence on British Cuisine
Moreover, Henderson’s impact on British cuisine rivals that of notable chefs, shaping the culinary landscape throughout the country. The reverberations of his influence can be felt in pubs and restaurants far and wide, illustrating a remarkable legacy.
