St. Moritz: A Guide to Charm and Luxury
While St. Moritz’s origins go back thousands of years to when rich mineral springs were discovered, today it’s better known as the birthplace of Alpine winter sports and the go-to European ski resort for well-heeled chionophiles. It’s home to glitzy hotels, sleek restaurants, secret drinking dens, excellent ski runs, and, during the winter months, Moncler’s chairman and CEO, Remo Ruffini. Here, Remo shares his insider tips for enjoying the storied Swiss ski resort, where he owns a chalet.
When did you first visit St. Moritz?
“When I was three years old, on holiday with my mum. I always went there as a child; it’s where I first learned to ski. It holds a special place in my heart. We used to stay in a simple hotel at the foot of the Morteratsch glacier, and we had to walk for half an hour along a trail of snow and ice without any trees – that image is firmly imprinted onto my memory.”
Where do you stay?
“I’m lucky to have a house in St. Moritz, but there are so many gorgeous hotels. The grand Badrutt’s Palace is the most iconic. Overlooking the lake, it’s very elegant and traditional, featuring a huge dining room window offering vistas of the entire valley. Suvretta House, perched on a mountainside plateau towards the south, retains an old-world atmosphere, with its snow-dusted turrets and coffered ceilings. It sits at the beginning of the ski slope with direct access to the Corviglia ski area, making snow easily accessible, even with children. For those who prefer small but charming, there’s the Historic Hotel Chesa Salis along the valley in Bever. It’s a 16th-century manor house with hand-painted walls, resembling something from a Swiss storybook.”
Where’s a great place to watch the world go by?
“It has to be a restaurant with a view. I enjoy a leisurely lunch at Paradiso, in the Corviglia area. The food is good, but more importantly, it faces south, overlooking the lakes.”
Where are the best places to eat?
“I love traditional restaurants that serve simple but well-prepared dishes in typical Engadine settings, thus creating a pleasant ambience. My favourite spots include Clavadatsch for its spectacular view; Kuhstall, at the foot of Corvatsch, which is a repurposed old barn; and Chesa Veglia, a chalet in the centre of town, which serves French cuisine but also local dishes such as bratwurst and lentil soup, which I adore. For an exceptional high-altitude experience, I always recommend Langosteria. Raclette is served everywhere, from fine dining establishments to local eateries, and I’m crazy for it. The aromatic smell lingers on your clothes, but that’s all part of the experience.”
To go for an evening drink?
“The best place to head to after dinner is the Dracula Club, a unique private members’ establishment in a charming little chalet. It’s not your typical club but more of a space to chat. As the name suggests, the decor is eerie, with bats and spider’s webs everywhere. In the summer, it hosts the Festival da Jazz, which has become a staple of the St. Moritz music scene.”
What are the coolest cafes?
“The most famous place in St. Moritz for a pit stop is Hanselmann, located on the main street. It captures the essence of the Engadine and inner Switzerland. It serves my favourite Engadiner Nusstorte, a delicious nut cake, and elaborately crafted handmade pralines. Then there’s Hatecke, a grocery store offering soups and small plates. It was opened by a butcher from the Lower Engadine, known for stocking high-quality Alpine dried meat. A classic on the slopes is Alpina Hütte, where I stop every day for the atmosphere – there’s plenty of music, and sometimes international DJs perform there. I always grab a glass of Braulio with ice, which energizes me to keep skiing.”
The best ski runs?
“There are beautiful skiing spots everywhere, each uniquely different. Corvatsch is the place to go in February since it faces north, ensuring it stays cold with snow until May. Corviglia is much more glamorous, sunnier, and emphasizes the experience of dining with friends over skiing. It also features the most interesting lodges. My preferred ski instructors are from the Swiss Ski School, also known as The Red Legends – they all wear Moncler apparel.”
The top shops?
“I always stop by Trois Pommes, a multi-brand fashion boutique with intriguing international labels and quirky pieces, perfect for menswear and women’s clothing. For ski equipment, Skiservice, at the beginning of the Corvatsch slopes, offers quality tailor-made products. I may be biased, but I also recommend the new Moncler boutique, the first flagship store in the world fully dedicated to Moncler Grenoble.”
Where do you soak up some culture?
“St. Moritz boasts numerous galleries, with the Vito Schnabel Gallery being the best. This contemporary art gallery showcases world-renowned American and international artists and is characterized by a clear identity and unique vision with works from postmodern artists like David Salle. The gallery has also curated public spaces in St. Moritz, extending its programming.”
Any secret spots?
“To experience the origins of St. Moritz, there’s a restaurant shack called La Baracca at the foot of the chairlift. It has live music in the evenings, creating a vibrant atmosphere. Additionally, taking in the Engadine and the entire valley from the Muottas Muragl viewpoint via a funicular railway is an unmissable experience.”
What draws you here?
“I consider St. Moritz my second home. I feel connected to nature and can truly switch off from the world. The cold revitalizes me, both physically and mentally. The forest in front of my home inspired a Moncler Grenoble collection in 2013, when we transformed New York’s Gotham Hall into a ‘human forest’ with 370 people dressed in shades of green, symbolizing a synergy of nature and community. Despite the spectacular landscape, it’s the people that truly stand out; the residents here pay meticulous attention to every detail, ensuring pristine lawns and well-maintained trekking routes leading to the cross-country skiing areas.”
