Summary
1. Location and Journey
Traveling to the northernmost region of Japan’s main island, Honshu, requires a journey filled with adventure. From Tokyo to Aomori Prefecture, my partner and I embarked on a trip that took seven hours, involving three trains and two buses. We were eager to experience Aoni Onsen, expecting a cluster of onsen ryokans, but found only the charming Lamp no Yado, aptly named “the inn of lamps” because of its warm, ambient lighting.
2. Unique Ryokan Experience
Lamp no Yado stands out from typical onsen ryokans, offering a truly isolated experience. With no electricity, phone signal, or Wi-Fi on the premises, guests are encouraged to immerse themselves fully in the serenity of nature. Despite the harsh winter conditions with heavy snowfalls, each room is equipped with a kerosene space heater and an oil lamp, ensuring comfort without modern distractions. It is a simple yet memorable experience where guests set up their own futons and use wooden buckets for their showers.
3. Onsen Options
The ryokan features four different onsen baths: three indoor baths for each gender and one large outdoor co-ed onsen. Mixed onsen, known as konyoku, were common in Japan before the 1970s and have made a comeback in northern regions, offering a unique bathing experience. Initially apprehensive about bathing nude among strangers, I quickly found comfort in the warm waters, sharing the moment with my partner amidst the falling snow. This blend of hot and cold created a mesmerizing atmosphere.
4. Gourmet Dining
At mealtimes, Lamp no Yado impresses with an array of dishes that highlight local ingredients and flavors. Their dinner encapsulates a sea-to-table experience featuring small seafood plates. My favorites included the freshly grilled river trout and locally cherished minced squid cutlets, showcasing the richness of the region’s culinary offerings.
5. Immersed in Nature
While the ryokan’s natural surroundings provide an immersive experience, they also come with challenges. A sudden rooftop avalanche startled us one night, leading us out to the outdoor baths to witness the sunrise over the snow-laden landscape. The tranquility of the environment allowed us to explore without flashlights, as our eyes adjusted to the shifting light levels.
6. Travel Tips
Planning is essential when visiting Lamp no Yado, as it is only accessible via shuttle bus due to the treacherous winter roads. Missing a bus means a strenuous five-hour trek back. Moreover, this ryokan may not suit everyone — some guests have left upon realizing the absence of modern connectivity. However, for those seeking a digital detox, this experience can be incredibly rewarding, offering quality time away from the distractions of daily life.
7. Final Thoughts
My recount of Lamp no Yado often begins with excitement: “This incredible ryokan completely disconnects you from the outside world but provides an unforgettable experience.” Indeed, the journey to this hidden gem is worth every moment for travelers seeking solace in the beauty of Japanese onsen culture.
