I’m an Adelaide-based travel writer and photographer, capturing adventures across Australia – although, shamefully, I hadn’t visited Sydney since the pandemic lockdowns. So when an invitation arrived to go to the harbor city for a special event, I took it as a sign to return.
My biggest splurge was on accommodation, which you can easily trim by staying at a central hostel or a room outside the city center. Weekend public transport was surprisingly cheap, with a daily fare cap limiting my spend to $9.35 per day (excluding airport fees). I recommend pairing a few indulgences with free activities; a must in a notoriously expensive city.
Pre-trip Spending
All prices are in Australian dollars.
Accommodation: $560 for two nights at the central, classy, and convenient Ace Hotel. A 10-minute walk from Sydney’s Central Station and close to the city’s downtown core, it eliminated the need – and temptation – to take pricey Ubers.
On the Ground
Friday
11am: I touch down at Sydney International Airport, collect my luggage, and head toward the domestic terminal’s underground train station.
To avoid the minimum spend required to buy an Opal card (Sydney’s tap-on, tap-off metro pass), I use my contactless credit card across the weekend, delivering the same benefits as an Opal adult card without carrying the extra plastic.
The feeling of frugality is short-lived as the airport’s “Station Access Fee” surcharge ($17.34) hits me on top of the fare to Museum Station ($2.94) in central Sydney.
12pm: After a brisk train ride and a downhill stroll, I drop my bags at Ace Hotel and I’m back outside, within 30 minutes.
To shake off the post-flight stiffness, I walk the 1.5km to the White Rabbit Gallery in Chippendale for my lunchtime catch-up with old workmates. I’m ravenous by the time I arrive and we waste no time loading our table with handmade dumplings and aromatic teas (my share $17.50).
I wave my comrades back to their office and battle a food coma while roaming the gallery’s four levels of contemporary Chinese art (free).
3:30pm: Still hungry, I wander to the nearby Brickfields bakery and snack on a Sinner’s Schmear, a sweet cinnamon brioche with vanilla glaze ($8).
Continuing my urban food crawl, I head 20 minutes north, where the Chinatown Friday Night Market (free) has just kicked off. The air is thick with spice, and I eye off a braised pork belly Chinese crepe ($17) for an early dinner. With juices dripping down my arm, I complete my short circuit back to the hotel.
Friday total: $62.78
Saturday
8:15am: I’m up early to take advantage of Sydney’s unseasonably warm winter day. I hop on the 373 bus ($3.05) toward the city’s iconic eastern shores. My first stop: Coogee Beach.
A block from the water, The Little Kitchen cafe buzzes with chatty regulars and the aroma of a hot cake special. I snag the last table and settle on the halloumi and roast field-mushroom bap ($16) with my coffee ($4.50).
10am: I fill my water bottle (free) at the foreshore reserve and join the stream of walkers sweating their way north along the Coogee to Bondi coastal walk (free).
By the time I reach Bondi Beach 6km later, I dive into the icy wash (free), a sharp reminder that winter isn’t quite over.
Once dry(ish), I catch the 380 bus ($3.05) northbound and finish my morning’s exercise exploring Sydney Harbour National Park (free).
1pm: With skies too sunny for indoor dining, I head to Doyles Fishermans Wharf Takeaway by the Watsons Bay ferry terminal. I opt for separate orders of fish ($10.90) and chips ($7.70), shaving $3 off the combined fish ‘n’ chips price, and feast beneath the shoreline’s stately Moreton Bay fig tree.
Next, I’m on the water, and I reach my daily public transport fare cap on the ferry ride to Circular Quay (daily cap $9.35), admiring Sydney’s iconic Harbour Bridge and Opera House from the glistening water.
Back on land, it’s a five-minute walk to the Royal Botanic Gardens (free), where I treat myself to an ice block ($4) from the cafe. With 17,000 steps already logged on my phone, I find a shady lawn, lower my cap, and rest my eyes.
I rouse to a message from an old footy mate, suggesting we catch up at his friendly neighborhood pub, the Bellevue Hotel. I jump on a train (now free) from Circular Quay to my hotel, rinse off the salt, dress casually, and ride the 440 bus to Paddington.
6:30pm: Lindsay and I trade old stories over dinner, distracted by pups wandering this dog-friendly bar. I go for the hearty beef and Guinness pie ($25) and a crisp Pinot Grigio ($11). We take a digestive stroll through the ‘burbs, say our goodbyes, and I hail the bus (still free) back to the hotel.
Saturday total: $88.45
Sunday
9am: With winter’s sun still beaming, I set my sights on Sydney’s northern beaches. I catch a train ($2.94) to Circular Quay, followed by a ferry to Manly Wharf (hitting the daily fare cap); the breezy 20-minute voyage begins to shake my morning slumber.
The coffee ($5) from Fika completes the wake-up call, while their “Scando Avo,” smashed avocado on rye with feta, strawberries, pickled chili, and an extra egg ($21.50, plus $2.70 in surcharges) preps my stomach for the day.
With my legs weary from yesterday, I switch walking for paddling and hire a kayak ($55 for three hours) from Manly Kayak Centre to explore North Head’s secluded beaches. I grab a raspberry white chocolate ganache cruffin ($9.50) and a sumo mandarin ($2.50) at the nearby Manly Markets.
12pm: Weaving through an armada of bobbing yachts, I paddle beyond Manly Wharf, where a salty breeze meets me. Passing luxurious waterfront villas transports me momentarily to the Mediterranean coast – until a eucalyptus branch brushes against my bow.
At Store Beach, I unwrap my snacks and enjoy them while strolling along its tree-lined shore.
Next, I kayak to neighboring Quarantine Beach, where I pay for the stunning harbor view in the form of an apple cider ($12 plus $1.40 weekend surcharge) from Wharf Cafe & Bar.
After navigating back to the Manly Wharf against an increasing headwind, I board the ferry (now free) and then train (yep, free) back to the hotel, with ample time to freshen up and prepare for dinner.
6:30pm: I meet a few others who have arrived for the event that brought me here, and we dine at LOAM, located in the Ace Hotel lobby. Food envy is shared equally as the dishes arrive. I indulge in the portobello katsu burger ($26), a smooth Amo Vino ‘Ramato’ orange wine ($15), and a baked rice pudding ($16) while adding the credit card surcharge ($2.29) plus tip ($2.96).
Sunday total: $180.91
The Final Tally: $892.43
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Accommodation: $560.00 (two nights)
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Public transport: $38.98 (including airport surcharge)
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Food and wine: $229.10
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Activities: $55.00
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Hidden surcharges and tips: $9.35
Notes
This budget excludes air, bus or train fares and, as mentioned, there is cheaper accommodation available across Sydney. Prices listed on menus in Sydney already include taxes and tips. However, extra surcharges may appear on your bill. Credit card fees are sometimes added to cover the processing costs banks charge. Surcharges on weekends and public holidays are sometimes applied to offset higher demand and increased labor costs (typically between 10 and 15%).
This article was first published Aug 14, 2019, and updated Oct 18, 2024.
