Amid travel restrictions and lockdowns, we’re exploring our catalogue of great travel writing and digging deep into the stories of journeys big and small.
Immersed in Irish Culture
My mother’s mother was a McDonald, married to a Fitzgerald, and though I’ve never traced my lineage, I claim some ethnic identity as half Irish. In the spring of my fortieth year, joined by my wife and three children, I moved to Ireland for three and a half months to experience life in the land of my ancestors. Unlike most visiting Irish-Americans, I had no familial connections and thus found myself, with the help of the Irish Tourist Board, renting a grand eighteenth-century house just outside of Skibbereen on Lough Hyne, where I briefly embraced the role of (ersatz) lord of the manor.
First Impressions
Arriving at Shannon Airport in the foggy morning, I was burdened with enough luggage for an expedition. Our initial encounter with the Irish at immigration, however, was anything but smooth. The officers eyed us with suspicion, seemingly ready to send us back. Fortunately, my wife, calm and reasonable, managed the negotiations. Ultimately, when I introduced myself as a writer, their demeanor changed—recognition crossed their faces, and they stamped our passports enthusiastically.
Discovering Rural Life
After a grueling journey from Los Angeles, we navigated narrow, winding roads to reach our rental home. Upon arrival, local farmers Mary and Paddy Burke welcomed us and showed us around the expansive house, six times larger than our home in California. Outside, on the rolling lawns beside Lough Hyne, I spotted a dozen cows. Attempting to break the ice, I jokingly inquired if I should bring the cows inside during the rain, which amused Mary and sparked an instant friendship.
Schooling and Community Integration
My daughter, Kerrie, required schooling just as we arrived. On the following day, I reached out to the Master of the Rath School in Baltimore, Michael Collins, who kindly invited her to join the school even though we were not residents. My drive through narrow roads led to the remarkable discovery of the school nestled in a beautiful setting by the ocean. When I returned to collect her, she was cheered by fellow students, which was a heartwarming indication of her acceptance.
The Lifestyle Change
Experiencing life in Ireland was refreshing compared to the hustle of Los Angeles. I found joy in simple pleasures—the cows on the meadow, a bower of rhododendrons leading to the lake, and even the daily visits from the mailman. Living in a village setting not only enriched our family life but also helped me establish a routine focused on both writing and community.
Writing in Ireland
As I worked on my writing projects, I also discovered that Irish pubs offered both camaraderie and inspiration. Skibbereen, a town of about 3,000 residents, boasted numerous pubs. Initially hesitant, I eventually became familiar with the local watering holes. One rustic pub, adorned with gleaming aluminum kegs, became my favorite spot—a place where I could finally connect with locals and enjoy a pint of Guinness while reveling in the music of the community.
A Transformative Experience
Was my time in Ireland life-changing? While it might not have been as profound as discovering the works of Flannery O’Connor or John Coltrane, it undeniably allowed me to embrace life fully. I revisited classic texts by Joyce and attended local theater performances, deepening my understanding of culture. Each moment spent there resonated with lasting significance, linking my past with the present. Living in Ireland transformed my approach to writing and understanding life, creating lasting memories I cherish to this day.
