Discover Iwate Prefecture: A Hidden Gem in Japan

A beautiful natural landscape from mountains to dramatic coast, a traditional craft-making culture, and regional food specialties that include a noodle challenge are just a few reasons to detour north and explore Iwate Prefecture as part of a Japan itinerary.

Furthermore, travelers who do make the effort to visit this little-known swathe of Tōhoku will find it refreshingly light on tourist crowds.

The Great Outdoors

With one of the lowest population densities of any prefecture in Japan, Iwate is defined by its natural features. Mountain ranges, deep gorges, beech forests, volcanic peaks, and caldera lakes make it a prime destination for hiking, onsen soaking, and escaping the hustle and bustle of city life. In winter, the landscape transforms into a winter wonderland, featuring low-key ski resorts (such as Hachimantai, at the base of mountain Iwate-san) that see relatively few international visitors.

To the east lies the stunning and varied Sanriku Kaigan (Sanriku Coast), stretching about 220km and passing through three prefectures. Here, sheer cliffs and jagged ria formations meet the expansive Pacific Ocean, with the Kitayamazaki Cliffs in Iwate’s north as one of the many highlights. The Sanriku Kaigan region is perfect for a road trip; however, for deeper exploration, consider walking part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail. This series of trails takes you through diverse scenery, ranging from sandy coves and woodlands to steep bluffs and rural hills, while stopping at charming small towns along the way.

Oodles of Noodles

Iwate is the place to take the wanko-soba challenge: discover how many mini servings of noodles you can quickly slurp down, one after another, in a single sitting. This is said to be a 300-year-old tradition, with one notable venue being the atmospheric restaurant Azumaya in Morioka. Here, servers stand by with trays of noodles ready to refill each bowl the moment you empty it. Diners who manage 100 bowlfuls (which surprisingly is not uncommon!) receive a commemorative plaque.

If you prefer less pressure, the tasty Morioka reimen is another interesting local specialty worth seeking out. These firm, chewy noodles are served in a chilled broth, typically topped with a boiled egg, vegetables, and kimchi—a spicy nod to the dish’s Korean origins.

However, it’s not all about noodles. With a long coastline, Iwate boasts excellent fresh seafood, while its fertile farmlands produce some of Japan’s best-known dairy products (be sure to try cookies and cakes from Koiwai farm). Additionally, surprising finds such as L’auréole, a restaurant perched on a remote clifftop in the north of the prefecture, offer French-inspired dishes prepared with local ingredients.

Traditional Crafts

The northern region of Japan is home to many traditional crafts, with artisans practicing techniques honed through centuries. Iwate’s most well-known contribution to this legacy is Nambu Tekki (Nambu Ironware), with a history believed to span at least 400 years. At Iwachu ironworks close to Morioka, visitors can observe craftspeople casting and detailing the iron, followed by browsing a tempting array of beautifully made ironware items in the attached shop—from traditional and contemporary tea kettles to wind chimes and candle holders. (Just remember to have your passport on hand to receive a tax refund if you spend more than ¥5000.) Nambu Tekki items can also be viewed and purchased at Morioka Handiworks Square, where several workshops demonstrate various crafts from around the region, with opportunities to try your hand at creating your own pieces.

Heritage and History

If it’s the Japan of quiet temples and contemplative gardens you seek, Iwate has plenty to offer. Hiraizumi, a former feudal town, houses the wooded temple complex Chūson-ji, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The highlight here is the 12th-century Konjiki-dō, a fully gilded and elaborately decorated pavilion (kept behind glass for preservation), beneath which are the remains of three generations of the Ōshu Fujiwara clan, who once ruled the region. Nearby is the garden of Mōtsū-ji, which centers on a large pond. Also dating back to the 12th century, this garden is one of the very few remaining examples of a Pure Land Buddhist garden in Japan, designed to resemble the Buddhist paradise that devotees hoped to reach.

About 80km northeast and a few hundred years younger than the sites of Hiraizumi, the carefully maintained farmhouses of Tono Furusato Village offer insights into rural life in Edo times (1603–1868). This open-air museum features several thatched-roof, broad-beam houses relocated from around the region, arranged on the leafy grounds surrounded by hills. Visitors can explore inside the houses, where household items and tools from the era are on display, and witness the open hearth crackling in the background.

Crowd-Free, Feel-Good Travel

While Iwate may not have the cachet and big-name attractions of Tokyo and Kyoto, it is largely free from overcrowding, and the rustic charm of some areas is a significant part of its appeal. This region is home to many inspiring and welcoming communities that continue to rebuild and revitalize since the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 2011. Iwate is a destination for unhurried travel: enjoy a road trip through the mountains, stay in an onsen hotel, or take a scenic train ride along the coast. Although it’s off the beaten path, reaching Iwate is still convenient via the bullet train.

Make It Happen

• When to Go: Every season has its appeal. Autumn colors are stunning, while spring is popular for cherry blossom viewing. Although snow in winter can disrupt travel, it offers picturesque landscapes. Rugby fans should head to coastal city Kamaishi during the Rugby World Cup, as two matches will be held here (25 September and 13 October) at the newly built Kamaishi Recovery Memorial Stadium.

• Getting There: It takes about 2½ hours by shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Morioka, the capital of Iwate Prefecture.

• Getting Around: Hiring a car is the most convenient way to navigate Iwate, but local trains are available—the most notable being the scenic Riasu line, which hugs the Sanriku coast, creating a 160km train journey along the Pacific Ocean.

Laura Crawford traveled with support from Iwate Prefecture. iBestTravel contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

This article was first published July 2018, last updated September 2019.