As the mercury soars and beach resorts fill up along the coasts of the Mediterranean, there’s one place where you can still stake out your own patch of shoreline far from the crowds. Here, you can wander through Roman ruins all by yourself and even visit the sands of the Sahara and the beach in the same day.
Tunisia is hungry for visitors. North Africa’s smallest country is often overshadowed by its looming neighbors and its own recent history. The country’s tourism industry was shattered in 2015 by a set of terrorist attacks after already limping along in the wake of the 2011 Arab Spring revolutions. Following a security overhaul, the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office relaxed its advice on visiting Tunisia in July 2017 and again this June.
iBestTravel returned to Tunisia for the first time in nearly a decade to update all of its information about the country, and the findings were astounding. Tunisia lies in plain sight while still being off the radar for most travelers; here’s why now is the perfect time to visit.
Sun, Sand and Sea
Tunisia’s original drawcard for travelers continues to be one of its most compelling features. Many visitors blissfully relax along the country’s thousand-kilometre Mediterranean coastline for weeks on end. The country is fortunate to have vast stretches of sand, with some areas frequented more by local fishermen and goat shepherds than tourists, particularly the wild beaches around Cap Bon. Although Cap Bon and Tunisia’s east coast are renowned resort territories, this does not mean that they are devoid of untouched natural beauty. Beyond the last resort enclave in Hammamet, a beautiful stretch of wild beach extends to the horizon, accessible and free for all.
Tunis: The Camera-Ready Capital
Tunisia’s capital, Tunis, is much calmer than its North African counterparts. The lively atmosphere in the tightly packed alleyways of Tunis’ UNESCO-listed medina feels less like hassle and more like genuine hospitality. The medina is adorned with bold doors in vibrant hues that open onto hidden mansions and exquisite restaurants flaunting ornate tiles. Tunis is also home to one of the world’s most impressive museums, the Bardo, which houses thousands of Roman-era mosaics and other archaeological treasures. Further north, some remnants of history can be explored at the historic settlement of Carthage. A short train ride leads you to the cliff-top village of Sidi Bou Saïd, which stands out as one of Tunisia’s most Instagram-worthy spots with its distinctive blue-and-white aesthetic and charming cobbled streets, making it a favorite haven for artists.
Lonely and Lovely Roman Ruins
To the ancient Romans, modern-day Tunisia was known as Africa: the name given to this land jutting into the Mediterranean. Roman Africa served as the breadbasket of the empire, exporting olives and grains across the sea. Remarkably well-preserved ruins of ancient cities are scattered across Tunisia’s landscape. Exploring places like the enchanting theatre embedded in the hills at Dougga, the intact temples of Sufetula, and the imposing El Jem amphitheater—second in size only to the Colosseum in Rome—reveals that Tunisia’s Roman ruins are as impressive as those in Italy, often at a fraction of the cost and with far fewer tourists.
Go on Set with Star Wars in Tunisia’s Saharan South
Tunisia’s stark desert landscapes may appear extraterrestrial, yet they also served as the setting for the original Star Wars films. Notably, Tatooine, the home of the Skywalkers, derives its name from the Tunisian town of Tataouine. The cloaks worn by the characters closely resemble traditional Berber djellabas. Visitors can even stay in Luke’s childhood home at the Hotel Sidi Driss in Matmata. Tunisia’s striking desert environment has welcomed four Star Wars films, with some constructed sets still intact but crumbling to the elements; the domed buildings at Mos Espa are particularly well-preserved.
Country of Culture
In a compact area, Tunisia packs a significant cultural punch. Kairouan is deemed one of Islam’s holiest cities, next in importance to Mecca and Jerusalem, with colorful rugs adorning every inch of the floor in the 9th-century Great Mosque, which features columns salvaged from ancient Roman and Byzantine towns. The island of Djerba is one of the oldest enclaves of Jews in North Africa, with the extraordinary El Ghriba synagogue serving as the focal point for the annual Lag B’Omer pilgrimage, during which thousands commemorate the memory of a rabbi through prayer, song, and dance. Berber culture can also be explored in Tunisia’s heartland and in the Sahara, particularly in central Tunisia’s abandoned Berber villages perched on lofty hilltops. Enterprising residents are striving to revive these deserted settlements, especially in Takrouna, where one can savor orange-blossom-tinted Turkish coffee at the Le Rocher Bleu cafe.
History Happens Here
Tunisia has played a critical role in Mediterranean history, often serving as the battleground for formidable empires. Around 1100 BC, the Phoenician empire established its base at Carthage, a city that ultimately succumbed after a series of devastating wars. The victorious Romans hurriedly built stunning cities, including Sufetula and Uthina, alongside remote frontiers like Ammaedara. Despite later reconstructions by the Byzantines and degradation by the Vandals, substantial remnants of their legacy persist. The Arab invasion in the 7th century was followed by Berber tribes regaining control a few centuries later. Layers of more recent history remain visible, from the exquisite decor of Turkish Ottoman palace rooms in the Bardo Museum to enduring bullet holes in Berber homes in Takrouna, where New Zealand troops made a final stand against the Nazis during WWII. Protests in the town of Sidi Bou Zid ignited the Arab Spring, a moment now marked by a simple graffitied monument to a fruit seller’s cart in the main square.
Traditional Tunisian Dars
Tunisia is often celebrated as the Arab Spring’s sole success story. While perspectives on this topic vary, one indisputable achievement is the rise of traditional guesthouses across the country. Dars, akin to Moroccan riads, offer a limited number of characterful rooms adorned with traditional textiles, vibrant geometric tiles, and colorfully painted wooden screens, typically centered around a picturesque courtyard. These houses, meaning ‘home’ in Arabic, are frequently located within a town’s medina, such as Dar 24—an exquisite 18th-century renovation situated in Tunis’ winding streets—and chic Dar Antonia, featuring a library and rooftop terrace in Sousse. Some guesthouses provide visitors with an intimate glimpse into rural life: nestled in a whitewashed French colonial farmhouse, remote Dar El Henchir lets you escape from the hustle and bustle of town, while Dar Boumakhlouf in Le Kef uniquely showcases regional dishes not often found in local restaurants.
Is Tunisia Safe to Visit?
The FCO has expressed satisfaction with the improvements to Tunisia’s security, having softened its travel advisories regarding the country in the last year. Following the 2015 terrorist attack at a beach resort in Sousse, security has been significantly heightened across hotels along the coast, with police patrols on the beaches and thorough inspections at resort entrances. Not all areas of Tunisia are deemed safe for travel, particularly near the southern border with Libya and in Jebel Chaambi National Park in the west. Therefore, it is essential to check your government’s advisory before planning your visit.
