Edinburgh is well-known for its meandering cobbled streets, its atmospheric old town lined with Gothic architecture and, in among the history, a diverse cultural scene and a smattering of trendy shops and eateries. What the hilly hub is perhaps less associated with is a thriving waterside scene – but Leith, to the north of the city, is home to dynamic creatives and longtime locals, helping to give the area a cool, ‘out of hours’ feel. Once the main trading port for the city in the 18th century, the salty air and earthy feel remain but the crowd has decidedly upscaled, and so have the independent boutiques and eateries that pepper the shore. Dubbed the Shoreditch of Scotland’s capital, the port district is unpolished, spirited, and authentic, a must for foodies and history buffs.
1. Grab a Coffee at William and Johnson’s
Tucked away in a backstreet, this achingly cool coffee shop, roastery, and art space at Custom’s Wharf offers more than just good quality coffee and perfect crema. The flagship café invites visitors into its airy loft space to learn more about the entire bean-to-brew process and meander through the gallery space and gift shop. Those sipping on their single-origin shots commend the quality of the coffee and the knowledge of the microbrewers here, making it a not-to-miss destination in Leith.
2. Stroll Along the Famous Water of Leith
Running alongside the Water of Leith river, which stretches from the Pentland Hills into the port of Leith, is a rustic, forest-clad pathway. The native herons and otters frolicking in the river come as a surprise to unsuspecting visitors traversing the walkway for the first time. It’s a much-loved amble opportunity, and the locals who stroll here are likely to share their local recommendations if you ask.
3. Grab a Bite at The Pitt Street Food Market
Every neighborhood worth its salt usually has a grassroots food market, and Leith is no different. Established in 2015, this street food hub has injected new life into an old industrial yard and proved so popular that it extended into a larger space in 2019. Open from Friday to Sunday, grab a craft beer or a glass of organic wine and dig into the vibrant culture here. Ròst, serving seasonal and local Scottish street food with a creative twist, is a particularly popular option, including the iconic crispy pheasant burger.
4. Indulge in Relaxed Fine Dining at Heron
Opened just last year, Heron is the brainchild of two of Scotland’s hottest chefs, Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke. This fine dining restaurant offers a farm-to-table experience with a menu that changes regularly to showcase the best of Scotland’s seasonal produce, all in a mellow setting that invites diners to indulge and unwind.
5. Live Like Royalty at Scotland’s Only Floating Hotel
This five-star Fingal hotel, once a Northern Lighthouse supply ship, boasts 23 discreet cabins, a fine dining restaurant, and a stunning ballroom. Located alongside the working docks of Leith, this polished accommodation option draws on 1930s Hollywood influences and Art Deco touches while providing a peaceful retreat.
6. Tuck into Fresh Seafood at Fishers on the Shore
Known for its fish and chips, Fishers on the Shore is set at the base of a 17th-century windmill. This seafood bistro provides an enchanting mix of fresh seafood and maritime decor, offering oysters, fish cakes, and an array of chilled seafood platters. Known for its effortless flavors and ambitious cooking style, it promises a delightful dining experience.
7. Enjoy a Nightcap at Smoke & Mirrors
Smoke & Mirrors is a quirky cocktail bar that offers a range of locally brewed beers and cocktails. With a cozy ambiance adorned with plants and fairy lights, it’s the perfect spot to unwind in the evenings, mingling with the area’s trendiest locals.
8. Sample Local Wares at Leith Farmers Market
Right beside the Water of Leith, small, independent traders gather on Saturdays to offer a taste of local food, crafts, and original artwork. This vibrant market atmosphere allows visitors to taste the area’s flavors and stock up on unique souvenirs.
9. Board the Royal Yacht Britannia
The Royal Yacht Britannia, once home to the Queen and her family, now welcomes over 400,000 visitors annually. This popular attraction allows guests to step aboard and discover the rich history of one of the world’s most exquisite Royal residences.
10. Get Your Culture Fix at the Biscuit Factory
Originally built in 1947, the Biscuit Factory now serves as a hub for creative businesses and hosts a variety of events. Featuring a gin distillery and art exhibitions, this space allows visitors to experience the cultural richness of Leith while surrounded by historic architecture.
