Summary
With thousands of stupas and payas to explore, there is no single optimal itinerary for visiting Bagan’s collection of temples. The temples featured in this article are recognized as Bagan’s most significant, scenic, and popular sites. Consequently, they should definitely be included in any temple-hopping itinerary that lasts longer than a day.
For those planning half-day visits, my guide Aung Kyaw Moe suggests sticking with two key stops: “For a half-day trip, you should visit Shwezigon and Ananda temples,” says Mr. Aung. “If you have already been to these two places, that’s totally fine.” For longer excursions, structure your temple visits around the highlights detailed here.
It is essential to note that for two of these temples (Htilominlo and Shwesandaw), local inspectors will check if you possess a valid Bagan temple pass; random checks may also occur elsewhere. Additionally, if you plan to visit all six temples in one day, opt for a Bagan transportation option that provides optimal efficiency (a car with a driver is advisable; a horsecart is not recommended).
Shwezigon Temple: The Stupa that Started it All
Shwezigon’s architectural similarities to Shwedagon in Yangon are intentional. Completed in 1086 AD, Shwezigon has influenced many subsequent temple designs throughout the empire. The grandeur of Shwedagon, completed four centuries later, is evident, yet it remains inspired by Shwezigon’s beauty.
Ordered by the great founding king Anawrahta and completed by his successor Kyansittha, Shwezigon’s design reflects a blend of both eras. Like Shwedagon, it functioned as a sacred place for kings to offer prayers: the southwestern corner specifically reserved for this purpose.
The name itself tells you much about its significance: “Shwe means golden, zigo means ground or victory,” explains Mr. Aung. “If the king had an important matter, they stood there to pray for what they desired, believing their wishes would be fulfilled.”
Around the impressively tall golden spire, a series of pavilions provide both educational and sacramental experiences. One pavilion showcases dioramas of Buddha’s initial encounter with the Four Sights; another features a whimsical alms bowl setup where visitors can try their luck tossing coins.
Shwezigon serves as a center for nat (spirit) worship, hosting icons representing Myanmar’s 37 recognized nats, allowing locals to offer prayers for protection or support.
Htilominlo Temple: Ode to an Umbrella
King Htilominlo (reigned from 1211 to 1235 AD) earned his reign through a superstitious ceremony; notably, his royal umbrella fell indicating his ascendance. The temple’s name reflects this event — “hti” (umbrella), “min” (king), and “lo” (wonderful desire) suggest divine selection of the young prince.
Although not the largest temple in Bagan, Htilominlo is undoubtedly one of the most graceful. Its spire rises 150 feet over the plains, each side measuring about 140 feet across. Surrounding the temple, market stalls create a bustling atmosphere, offering artwork, clothing, and souvenirs.
Constructed from red bricks, the temple displays sophisticated brickwork techniques, with an interior showcasing four gilded Buddha figures facing the four cardinal points. Hallways connecting chambers are adorned with frescoes illustrating Buddha’s life and teachings.
Ananda Temple: The One Perfect Temple
The Ananda Temple stands as a monumental structure, noted for its grandeur and spiritual importance in Bagan.
Commissioned by King Kyansittha — the son of Anawrahta who oversaw the completion of Shwezigon — Ananda was completed by 1105 AD. The temple’s exceptional design has led to some darker legends.
It is said that after finishing the temple, Kyansittha ordered the architect-monks to be killed, ensuring no other perfect structures could rival Ananda. Another tale involves his desire to be buried alive within Ananda’s relic chamber but he was persuaded against it by his chief monk, Shin Arahan.
“If you aim to create a sacred space, do not encase yourself!” Mr. Aung imagines Shin Arahan admonishing his king. “If you do, it will not remain a temple but rather become a tomb.”
The floor plan of Ananda resembles a Greek cross, with corridors extending to the cardinal points, leading to a hall that houses one of four Buddhas, each crafted from gilded wood and standing approximately nine feet high. The temple is cleverly designed for airflow and lighting, ensuring a pleasant atmosphere despite the inflow of visitors.
Dhammayangyi Temple: Bad Karma
As Bagan’s largest temple, Dhammayangyi was constructed by the tyrant Narathu, known for his violent ascent to the throne and the tragic end of his rule. His attempt to avoid karmic retribution involved erecting the tallest temple in all of Bagan.
Uniquely pyramidal in form, Dhammayangyi features exceptional brickwork quality, reflecting the high standards Narathu enforced upon his builders.
“Narathu sought to build Dhammayangyi higher than any other temple, exceeding the quality of masterpieces like Ananda,” Mr. Aung relays. “He required the masons to lay bricks so tightly that a needle could not fit between them; failure would often result in dire consequences.”
Ultimately, Narathu’s violent reign met a swift end, leaving Dhammayangyi incomplete. Locals often avoid the temple at night, as rumors of its haunting circulate.
Manuha Temple: The Hall of Sadness
Manuha Temple, named after the exiled Mon king who constructed it, features four immense Buddha sculptures—three seated and one reclining. This temple is unique as it was built by a king in exile.
King Manuha, who governed the Thaton Kingdom before it was conquered by Anawrahta in the 11th century, spent his final years confined in Bagan. He famously sold a ruby ring to finance the construction of this four-chamber temple.
With three Buddhas facing east and one reclining facing west, the temple’s design symbolizes King Manuha’s sorrow: the middle Buddha displays “unhappy eyes and lips,” while another exhibits a swollen chest indicative of his inner turmoil.
The 90-foot-long reclining Buddha in the rear encapsulates Buddha on his deathbed, prompting reflections on existence. “Even the Buddha had to die one day,” Mr. Aung notes. “No exemptions apply; where there is birth, there is death. However, if we engage in good deeds and adhere to the right meditation practices, death itself becomes less intimidating.”
Shwesandaw: The Sunset Stupa
Shwesandaw is among the few terraced temples visitors are allowed to ascend; its views from five expansive terraces are reputedly the finest in Bagan.
Climbing to the top involves steep stairs, with a steel railing available for those requiring support. Shwesandaw stands at 328 feet from the base to its top, where visitors can admire stunning views of the Ayeyarwady River and nearby temples like Thatbyinnyu, recognized as Bagan’s tallest temple, along with the Bagan Archaeological Museum.
The 1975 earthquake notably impacted Shwesandaw, with the present hti acting as a replica of the original toppled by the quake, now housed safely in the Archaeological Museum. This temple is currently missing numerous clay reliefs depicting the Jataka Tales.
Shwesandaw remains open year-round, but for optimal viewing conditions, visit during Bagan’s winter season from November to February for clear skies and excellent visibility. Timing your visit for sunrise or sunset enhances the experience, casting a warm orange glow on the adjacent temple bricks.