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We’re well-known for being a nation of committed foodies. While it’s easy to make a case for Brits shunning our own culinary history in favour of new flavours and cultures, we’re pretty good at picking up on a new food trend. These can be as wholesome and simple as nostalgic flavours that remind us of gut-busting suppers at Grandparents’ houses, or as extravagant as embracing the mob-wife aesthetic when we hit the town in search of good food. Following recent restaurant awards, we asked some of our resident gourmands to tap into the eating habits sweeping the nation. This is how we’re eating, collectively, in 2024.
There’s Good Food in Less Familiar Places
Reckon you could pinpoint the Howardian Hills on a map? A clue: they’re named after Castle Howard, the stately star of popular films. But it’s culinary pilgrimages rather than set-jetting we’re talking about here. The North Yorkshire district is now one of the UK’s most appealing food destinations, thanks to restaurants such as Pignut in Helmsley, Mýse in Hovingham, and Tommy Banks’s Abbey Inn. Also set your GPS for the Lancastrian village of Aughton (Moor Hall, Sō-lō), Chester (Covino and Twenty Eight), and Fife, whose gastronomy scene is so lively it recently held its first food and drink week. Whisper it, but are the most exciting menus being devised outside London these days?
Hyper-Regionality is Rising
Back in the day, it was enough to know that the food on your plate was simply Italian or Thai, never mind the culinary traditions of Umbria or Chiang Mai. Now, lesser-known cultures are being highlighted on London’s food map, with Akub bringing Palestinian sharing dishes such as red-lentil moutabal to the table, and Abby Lee offering a masterclass in Sarawak and Penang heat at Mambow. Meanwhile, third-culture cuisine – traditional dishes fused with British ingredients and techniques – informs the Filipino menu at Donia and the Korean plates of Sollip. What’s next? Well, the first Scottish café in London, The Shoap, by Gregg Boyd of Dalston stall Auld Hag, has just opened in Angel – scran and a dram, anyone?
Farm-to-Fork Continues to Flourish
How does your garden grow – with cardoons and brassicas and nasturtium flowers, all in a row? Farm-to-fork has been a mantra for years, but sustainably led restaurants are blooming, inspired by Simon Rogan’s Our Farm in Cumbria, Canterbury’s The Goods Shed, and Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall. They reduce food miles to mere feet for hyper-seasonal menus, such as the Jerusalem artichoke salad at Chalk on the Wiston Estate. Some are secret walled-garden restaurants, while others create ecosystems to nourish the local scene, like Higher Ground in Manchester, which shares ingredients from its Cinderwood Market Garden.
Nostalgia is So Now
In times of uncertainty, do we run for the apron strings of our childhood food memories? The post-lockdown success of Norman’s Cafe in north London, a homage to the traditional English café, would seem to say yes, as does the recent opening of Café Britaly in Peckham, where fried eggs rest on spaghetti carbonara. More cheffy interpretations include the rarebit crumpet at Bath’s Beckford Canteen and the oxtail steamed pudding and mash at The Palmerston in Edinburgh. Hash browns are everywhere – Victorian nostalgia for a few, ’80s-era McDonald’s for most. Try the ones topped with caviar at The Dover.
Price Still Matters
Affordability is often not associated with dining out in the UK. For some chefs, accessibility is a priority. When Jackson Boxer took over at the rebooted Cowley Manor Experimental last summer, he aimed to keep prices down: starters and mains from £12. Big sharing plates are the way forward for those wanting to eat at top restaurants for less, as are set menus that reduce food waste and costs. For example, try Angela Hartnett’s Murano, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, and Luca for excellent value experiences.
The Fire Burns Hot
The most enduring recent trend is also the oldest – around a million years old, actually. Fire dining, rather than fine dining, is searing meat and blowing wood smoke around the country. You might notice this at restaurant names such as Mayfair’s Humo, where a 13-foot grill fires up British-Japanese plates. If you’re interested in culinary fire pits, you can reach out to chefs inspired by international flavors.
The Pub is Back
“All those pubs you hear about closing down must have been a bit lackluster,” says Oisin Rogers of The Devonshire, highlighting the renewed pub culture. This Soho boozer with a restaurant above has been jam-packed since opening in late 2023. The Chickpea Group is busy reviving fading inns around the West Country, and pub culture is being championed as a social hub of the community. The resurgence of the pub scene is palpable.
Foraging Gets More Sophisticated
Catch the dawn light on the Pembrokeshire coast, and you may spot Matt Powell gathering seaweed for his menu at Annwn. Foraging has evolved to become more nuanced and informed, with edible flowers and pine taking center stage. Foraged food is now the star at festival-style feasts popping up around the country.
OTT is In
Maximalist excesses are turning heads, with vibrant interiors making dining out even more exciting. Whether it’s retro-Italian-American spots or dynamic “clubstaurants” that combine exceptional dining with entertainment, the food scene continues to evolve.
West African has Gone Mainstream
This year’s breakout cuisine is West African, with restaurants showcasing diverse culinary traditions. No one has led that trend quite like Adejoké Bakare, who recently became the first Black woman to earn a Michelin star. Her menus celebrate traditional ingredients like scotch bonnets and okra in new, exciting ways.
Pie Possibilities are Endless
When discussions about British cuisine arise, the pie is often a point of reference. Infinitely adaptable and comforting, pies are experiencing a renaissance. From lobster pies to traditional favorites, culinary creativity is abundant across the country.
