iBestTravel’s Culinary Guide to Lyon
Interestingly, my visit to Lyon was not primarily driven by the food. Traditional bistros, known as bouchons, never truly appealed to me. However, exploring the city revealed a vibrant culinary landscape featuring fusion food, vegetarian options, street delicacies, and haute cuisine. It’s hard to find another city that boasts such diversity.
A Brief History of Lyon’s Culinary Fame
Lyon’s culinary reputation is a result of savvy marketing, a touch of luck, and the vital contributions of women in the food industry. In 1900, the Michelin brothers, tire manufacturers from Clermont-Ferrand, devised a strategy to spur tire sales by creating a guidebook. This included road maps, restaurants, and hotels, encouraging people to travel more by car, directly benefiting the gastronomy of Lyon which sits between Paris and Nice.
As a consequence, Lyon’s bouchons gained popularity among tourists and restaurant critics. In 1933, Eugénie Brazier, a pioneering female chef from the Ain region, made history by becoming the first individual to earn six Michelin stars. Despite Paul Bocuse’s esteemed name today, it was Brazier who played a crucial role in shaping the culinary landscape, having trained Bocuse himself.
Fast forward more than 90 years, and while many bouchons retain their traditional charm, Lyon’s culinary scene has evolved. Young, innovative chefs consistently arrive, enticed by the affordable living costs compared to Paris. Despite France’s traditional dining customs, Lyon’s mealtimes are celebrated with great reverence.
Breakfast Delights
Croissants may symbolize a sweet morning in France, but nothing quite compares to Lyon’s breakfast specialty: pink praline brioche. While the origin of the bright pink color of praline remains a mystery, its nutty, sticky sweetness combined with buttery brioche is a blissful experience. Pralus offers generous sharing-sized brioches, perfect for festive gatherings. For a convenient snack, look for Antoinette Pain & Brioche, which serves delightful pink praline babka. If you prefer something savory, breakfast croques from Le Desjeuneur in Croix-Rousse are a must-try.
Coffee Culture
In Lyon, when it comes to coffee, a decent espresso can be found nearly anywhere, often for less than a euro. Un Brin de Folie stands out not only for its quality coffee but also for its enchanting atmosphere, nestled in a florist’s shop. If you’re searching for the best flat white, Grimpeurs, a bike shop and café hybrid, serves a phenomenal version, albeit at a higher price point. Their hot chocolate infused with warming spices is also worth savoring.
Lunch Experiences
While grab-and-go meals may expose tourists, Lyon’s street food is irresistible. Toke’s quirky empanadas, which feature fillings like moussaka and palak paneer, and La Coquetterie’s impressive gyros are delicious options. Food Traboule is another celebrated venue, housing twelve eateries within its covered passageways. This foodie haven can become quite busy, so visiting during off-peak times is advisable.
For a more upscale experience, Lyon boasts 21 Michelin-starred restaurants. Jérémy Galvan’s eight-course lunch menu offers a unique sensory adventure where diners wear headphones for certain courses, enhancing the overall experience.
Evening Drinks
The choice of my apéro (pre-dinner drink) spot shifts with the seasons. As days lengthen, I relish an Aperol Spritz on the rooftop bar Les Muses, which offers stunning views of the city. Velcroc is another favorite, set by the Rhône, blending a café and bike repair workshop with a lively ambience for people-watching and occasional live music.
Dinner Options
Ayla captivates diners with its ever-changing Franco-Lebanese small plates that turn even the mundane vegetables into culinary masterpieces. Additionally, Vico Pizzeria consistently ranks as the top pizza destination in Lyon, known for its impeccable dough-to-sauce balance. For an extraordinary experience, Alebrije offers a Franco-Mexican tasting menu prepared by Chef Carla Kirsch Lopez, where delectable margaritas accompany the meal.
Nightlife in Lyon
Reflecting on my first trip to Lyon, I recall evenings spent at Le Sirius, a charming live-aboard narrowboat bar. Amazingly, more than a decade later, it still remains a favored spot for a dynamic nightlife experience. Another bustling venue, La Faute aux Ours, showcases a captivating blend of vintage decor and contemporary fun.
