Culinary Delights of Nevis

On a long-awaited return trip, one writer finds that the island’s homegrown cuisine—shaped over centuries and rooted in the verdant land—is as enticing as ever.

An Introduction to Nevis’ Culinary Scene

The best meal of my life happened halfway up a volcano. My wife and I were on our honeymoon, enjoying an Olympian view of the calm, silvery Caribbean from the leeward side of Nevis Peak. The restaurant, Bananas, a local favorite, had come highly recommended. Under foxtail palms, our table groaned with roasted-pumpkin gnocchi, Moroccan lamb, ceviche of squid fished from the balmy waters below. The air was bursting with jasmine. It was all ridiculously romantic.

Sometime after dessert—cardamom panna cotta and Bollinger with bits of passion fruit—I felt so happy that I started singing Drake’s “Passionfruit” loud enough to make the bride reconsider her recent decisions. Fortunately, one of the chefs, named Katie, emerged from the kitchen, warmly shook our hands, and shared the centuries-long story of how African and South Asian flavors flowed around the region during the slave trade and the colonial era, leaving traces in Nevis’s diverse cuisine.

Those who know and love Nevis—a gem-shaped isle off the tail of St. Kitts—regard it like a long-treasured friend. Each trip we’ve taken since our honeymoon has been more dazzling than the last. Whether it’s the volcanic soil, the skills of the chefs, or the memories of distant homelands in every island kitchen, Nevis has emerged as an essential destination for travelers who believe great meals are the key to falling in love with a place.

Dining at Bananas

On our most recent visit this past October, we eagerly toured our favorite spots while also making time for some new ones. We arrived via speedboat at Pinney’s Beach, where Sunshine’s Beach Bar & Grill has held court for over 30 years. Originally the operation of Llewellyn “Sunshine” Caines, who started making sandwiches for construction workers building a nearby resort, it’s become renowned for its jerk and barbecue, as well as its signature rum cocktail, the Killer Bee.

Sunshine’s Beach Bar & Grill

The scene at Sunshine’s is notable—once, I even saw the entire contestant roster for Miss Caribbean Culture wander through, sashes and all. A soccer ball’s kick away are the breezy, open-air cabanas of Lime Beach Bar, where fresh fish and a martini that tastes exactly like a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup await you.

The next morning in the neighboring village of Charlestown, we grabbed a table at Sip on the Square, known for its Gen-Z vibe and matcha lattes, to watch Nevisians greet another day.

Exploring Mango & Other Dining Options

Looming regally at the top end of Pinney’s Beach is the Four Seasons Resort Nevis, where we stayed this time around. The property recently underwent a renovation, offering upgraded dining options including On the Dune, where Indian-born chef Picco Alapatt explores Caribbean culinary traditions.

Nearby, Mango serves a variety of dishes including octopus carpaccio and West Indian stew. On the terrace, we enjoyed the slow dissolve of sunset on one side, and the nightlife of St. Kitts glittering away across the Narrows on the other.

Discovering Hidden Gems

Taxis are essential for transportation across Nevis. We took a quick ride to the roadside joint Indian Summer, home to the best saag paneer I’ve had outside of India. Nevisian culinary options continue to surprise, including exquisite butter chicken and delicious pizzas at Yachtsman Grill.

Curving around the northernmost point of the island, the newly opened Drift is a rustic cabana and art gallery with incredible dining options. Delighting our palates, we savored pesto linguine alongside a West Indian curry and a warming ginger bread cake.

Farther into the interior, the Golden Rock Inn, a former sugar plantation, is a highlight with its famous lobster roll and local specialties, surrounded by lush greenery synonymous with the region.

Slowly emerging from one of the strictest and most successful lockdowns in the region, Nevis promises even more cuisine to experience on future visits. It’s clear there is too great a bounty for just a single trip. The honeymoon continues.

A version of this story first appeared in the February 2022 issue of iBestTravel under the headline No Place Like Nevis.