Corn: The Heart of Mexican Culinary Culture
18 September 2021
The history of tortilla production in Mexico dates back to 500 BC, showcasing the deep-rooted connection the country has with corn. Crispin Somerville, co-founder of El Pastor, shares insights into the country’s tastiest corn-based snacks.
Corn with chicatana-ant mayonnaise at Molino El Pujol
San Martín, Malinalco
The daily food markets in rural towns across Mexico are treasure troves for stellar heirloom corn products. This traditional corn has been grown for millennia and stands as a quiet resistance to genetically modified crops. San Martín, located near the Magical Town of Malinalco, is a personal favorite for its commitment to preserving this culinary heritage.
Pig- and skull-shaped Day of the Dead tortillas at Expendio de Maíz
Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre, Mexico City
This establishment, from the creators of the legendary El Parnita, offers a reimagination of a pre-Columbian kitchen, delivering a uniquely immersive experience. Be sure to try the stuffed chilli-pepper tacos available next door!
Santa Clara de Juárez
Keep an eye out for vendors from Santa Clara de Juárez, especially outside Liconsa food stores in Mexico City. They are renowned for their blue-corn tortillas and tlacoyos (thick oval maize cakes).
Exterior at Molino El Pujol
Molino El Pujol, Mexico City
At the heart of renowned chef Enrique Olvera’s culinary empire lies the humble tortilla. Olvera has opened his own tortillería in La Condesa district, where he sells the heirloom tortillas he uses in his acclaimed restaurant, Pujol.
Tostadas at Criollo in Oaxaca
Itanoni Flor del Maiz, Oaxaca
This establishment embodies the significance of traditional corn, emphasizing the cultural importance of regional landrace crops. Their memelas (fried masa cakes) and tetelas (a kind of empanada) are exceptional, as is the fried egg on a single tortilla—an exquisite representation of corn’s versatility.
Dried heirloom corn varieties
Cultural Significance of Corn
Corn is often associated with sweet varieties found at roadside stands in Upstate New York, particularly at the end of summer. However, the most crucial harvest comes from field corn, predominantly found in Mexico during the autumn months, serving as a staple across the Americas and Africa. Many chefs are committed to fighting against industrialized monoculture in corn production.
Food writer and co-founder of the Mexican restaurant group Wahaca, Thomasina Miers, highlights corn’s dual identity: an ancient superfood filled with vital nutrients yet also a mass-produced commodity crop leading to health challenges due to its use in ultra-processed foods.
Tacos al pastor
Edson Diaz-Fuentes, co-owner of Santo Remedio in London, recounts a pivotal moment that ignited his passion for culinary arts—watching corn dough being pressed into tortillas at a kiosk in Acapulco. This experience marked the beginning of his journey into the world of cuisine.
Throughout Mesoamerica, corn has been nixtamalised and transformed into masa harina for millennia, serving as a cornerstone of sustenance, culture, and spirituality since ancient times. Crispin Somerville emphasizes corn’s significance, revealing how the El Pastor team values the use of surplus landrace corn grown by cooperatives in Mexico, ensuring each tortilla reflects a commitment to quality and heritage.
