Celebrating Birmingham’s First Two-Star Michelin Chef: Aktar Islam
Date: 30 May 2024
“It’s great to win it, and keeping it for the year means you’ve done what you needed to do to maintain the same standard you hit achieving the first one,” says Aktar Islam. “If you let things slip, it’s gone.”
It’s a chilly January afternoon in Birmingham, and I’m inside Islam’s progressive Indian restaurant Opheem, having just congratulated him on the fifth anniversary of winning its first Michelin star back in 2019. Less than two weeks after our conversation, Opheem would become Birmingham’s first restaurant to receive two Michelin stars.
Islam is too driven to let any standard slip, and this latest accolade is more confirmation of why he’s now perhaps the city’s most highly-regarded chef (no small feat in a field that includes Glynn Purnell and Brad Carter).
A Long Culinary Journey
It’s been a long journey to the top. From working at his father’s restaurant in Solihull as a teenager to operating as chef director of Birmingham’s Lasan restaurant group, Islam stepped down in 2017 to open Opheem the following year. He’s made various appearances on TV shows, including Gordon Ramsay’s F Word and the BBC’s Great British Menu. However, it’s at Opheem where his personality and vision have flourished.
Opheem: A Personal Journey
Islam explains, “Opheem is a very personal journey. It links together my British upbringing, the produce we have, and what comes out of our seas and farms. We’re celebrating ingredients and Indian culture while respecting its culinary heritage.”
Birmingham boasts a rich Indian food culture, known to outsiders for its balti curry. Yet, Opheem has elevated that heritage, turning the ordinary into something extraordinary.
“For example, our renowned potato dish, Aloo Tuk, celebrates the pink fir potato with flavors from the Indian subcontinent. We focus on ingredients and their representation in a unique and personal way, while keeping our heritage evident throughout each dish.”
Exploring Culinary Diversity
Islam’s culinary influences extend beyond the Indian subcontinent. He has launched Italian and Argentinian restaurants and enjoys a wide variety of cuisines from around the globe. Chatting in a casual setting, he expresses his appreciation for local casual dining experiences, particularly highlighting a Thai restaurant in Stirchley called SOI 1268, known for its honest and robust flavors.
Top Michelin-Star Restaurants Recommended by Aktar Islam
With Opheem’s recognition in mind, here are five of Aktar Islam’s favorite Michelin-starred restaurants that showcase culinary excellence.
1. Ynyshir, Ceredigion
Islam praises Gareth Ward’s work, stating, “They’ve built an experience that’s an absolute standout, and there’s a reason why they’ve got two stars. In my opinion, let them have a third!”
2. Moor Hall, Lancashire
Mark Birchall’s culinary offerings are highlighted as captivating; guests enjoy a cozy ambiance by the fire while savoring exquisite dishes. The halibut and mussels are a standout, complemented by a white wine cream sauce with caviar.
3. Restaurant Mýse, Yorkshire
Nestled in a quaint village, this restaurant’s commitment to local produce and Scandinavian influences make it a delightful dining destination. The warm, homey feel of the place adds to the experience.
4. Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham
Islam refers to this restaurant as a place for culinary masterpieces. With a reputation for excellence and a list of successful students, it remains a pinnacle of fine dining.
5. House of Tides, Newcastle
Kenny Atkinson’s food offers a fantastic tasting menu experience that captures traditional cooking roots, highlighted through rich and flavorful dishes.
Birmingham’s food scene is riding a wave of success, with Opheem leading the charge. The restaurant embodies culinary innovation and cultural celebration, providing a unique dining experience in Birmingham.
