Exploring the Reopened Trans-Bhutan Trail: My 60-Year Adventure

The 250-mile trail officially reopened in September.

Hearing my breathing, you might have thought I’d just finished a flat-out 400-meter sprint. My erratic panting was alarming enough for Tshering Tobgay, my Bhutanese guide, to kindly pause for frequent breaks along the 2,000-foot ascent — a trail steep enough in parts to force me onto tiptoe. Eventually, we reached the top, 11,150 feet above sea level, and I plopped down on a convenient wooden bench. A cool breeze rustled the leaves. A gap in the tall, slender blue pine trees revealed a swath of thick, lush forest at the bottom of the valley and a range of shadowy peaks beyond.

The Trans-Bhutan Trail (TBT)

The first climb of my 10-day, 90-mile hike along the Trans-Bhutan Trail (TBT) was, thankfully, the hardest; I soon acclimatized and found my climbing legs. This was fortunate because in the mountain kingdom of Bhutan — a tiny country sandwiched between China and India — there’s no shortage of uphill slogs.

The TBT runs 250 miles across the middle of Bhutan, connecting trails from Haa in the west to Trashigang in the east, topping out at around 13,000 feet. The paths lead through dense pine and rhododendron forests, around crumbling Buddhist stupas, across frothy blue rivers, up to high mountain passes with fluttering Tibetan prayer flags and views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks, through tiny farming communities and rice terraces, and into pocket-sized towns on the valley floor.

Accessibility and Local Connections

While serious trekkers will be drawn to the northern Himalayan region of Bhutan, the beauty of the TBT is its accessibility. As walkers are never too far from a road and the luggage-carrying support car, it’s easy to mix and match sections to suit fitness and ability, thus making it manageable for everyone. This flexibility can be a relief, particularly on challenging days.

Although officially reopened on Sept. 28, the only new aspect of the TBT is the name; the trails are hundreds of years old. Up until the 1960s, when the first roads were built, everyone— traders, pilgrims, messengers—had to journey on foot or by horse, mule, or yak. Historical figures have traversed these paths, connecting communities long before modern transportation.

Conservation and Community Support

The idea of restoring these cross-country footpaths came from Bhutan’s fifth king, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. The Bhutan Canada Foundation funded the clearing and signposting of the trails—carried out by teams of local volunteers during the pandemic—and the establishment of TBT, a nonprofit organization that created a series of itineraries for international tourists. By tidying and marking the trails, TBT also aims to encourage more Bhutanese to use these old paths.

Today, even in places connected by roads, the king is known to hike between villages—and it seems some have taken to emulating His Majesty’s love of walking. I noticed that local dignitaries often show up in new hiking boots, indicating a renewed interest in exploring these beautiful paths.

Post-Pandemic Tourism in Bhutan

I visited shortly after Bhutan reopened its borders on Sept. 23, following a 2.5-year closure due to COVID-19. Tourism is the second biggest industry after hydropower, making this reopening crucial for the nation’s economy.

The cautious attitude extends to Bhutan’s tourism strategy, which has pursued a “high value, low volume” model since first welcoming travelers in 1974. Consequently, this year, the daily Sustainable Development Fee was increased from $65 to $200, a decision that has raised eyebrows among some locals.

Accommodations Along the Trail

When it comes to lodging, the TBT offers diverse options. I stayed at various places, including three-star hotels, homestays, and campsites. Each provided a unique glimpse into Bhutanese life.

At a camping spot in central Bhutan, I awoke one morning to find my water bottle frozen solid. Peering outside, I found the surrounding farmland fields covered in pearly frost over which ice-blue mist hovered in the weak early light.

In the east of Bhutan—a quiet, rural region, far less visited than the west—I stayed with a Buddhist lama named Ugyen Wangdi. He’s lived there his entire life, embodying the region’s simplicity and peace.

This intimate connection to the local culture enriched my trekking experience. One of the things I most enjoyed about the TBT is that it connects communities rather than circumventing them as many hiking routes do. This ensures that every step along the trail is filled with stories, friendships, and cultural exchanges, making every trekker’s experience unique and memorable.