Getting around Bordeaux – a compact city that contains a dazzling mosaic of architectural styles – is a feast for the eyes. This is, after all, the world’s largest urban World Heritage Site, encompassing some 18 sq km (seven sq miles) – or half the city. Since time immemorial, vessels of various shapes and sizes have navigated the mud-brown Garonne River that winds gracefully through the port city, into the Garonne Estuary and beyond into the Atlantic Ocean.
Pedestrians have crisscrossed Bordeaux’s medieval heart for centuries, while neighborhoods are well served by what might be the sharpest, most efficient public transport system in France. Moreover, bike-mad locals are the biggest advocates of carbon-cutting modes of transport. Here are all the best ways to explore this beautiful city.
Zip from Bordeaux Airport into Town by Tram
With no overhead cables to mar the city’s architectural harmony, Bordeaux’s state-of-the-art tramway is a thing of beauty. Hop aboard at Bordeaux airport, 10km (six miles) west in suburban Mérignac. Tramline A departs every six to 10 minutes, between 5am and midnight, from the tram stop in front of Terminal A; in the city center, alight at the Hôtel de Ville stop (40 minutes), on the southern side of the cathedral. From here, tramline B follows the river north to Chartrons and La Cité du Vin, stopping en route at TBM’s tree-shaded hub Esplanade des Quinconces. To reach Bordeaux train station from the airport (one hour), take line A to the Porte de Bourgogne stop, then tramline C for a further four stops to Gare St-Jean.
At the airport, when purchasing a ticket from the machine by the tram stop, consider how many times you’ll use public transport that day. A two-/10-journey ticket (€3.20/€14.50) or a 24-/48-/72-hour ticket (€5/€9/€12) might be better value than a pricier single fare (€1.80, valid for one hour). The same tickets will work on TBM buses and boats.
Planning tip: To save paper and queue time at ticket machines, download the TBM app (available for iOS and Android) to buy tickets. Once on board, simply scan your phone at ticket-validator machines.
Take the Slow and Scenic Route to La Cité du Vin: by Boat
Since the heritage-proud Bordelais affectionately refer to their city as Port de la Lune (Port of the Moon), it’s only appropriate during your stay that you view the city from a watery perspective. Scenic Bat3 riverboats – cheaper than any organized river cruise – dock at five stops along the Garonne. These include right-bank Stalingrad (convenient for exploring La Bastide) and, along the left bank, Quinconces, Les Hangars (the “shoppers’ stop,” directly in front of the Bord’eau Village shopping center) and La Cité du Vin. Use a regular tram/bus ticket, or buy a pricier €3/€4 ticket valid for one/two journeys aboard. Bikes can be taken on board.
Planning tip: Bat3 boats run from 7am to 7:30pm (and from 9am on weekends). Sailings are only every two hours or so – so plan ahead.
For a Deep Dive into Bordeaux’s Sassy Street Art Scene, Pound the Pavement
Do the literary likes of Balzac, Baudelaire and other celebrated French flâneurs proud – and just walk. Bordeaux is a city that was created with slow, indulgent meandering in mind. There is no finer means of admiring the elegant symmetry of iconic Place de la Bourse, eyeballing grimacing mascarons (faces) on gold-stone facades, or drinking in the city’s contagious cosmopolitan energy than by getting from A to B to Z on foot.
With its web of disheveled alleys and backstage squares peppered with provocative street art by artists, the historic wine-trading district of Chartrons is particularly conducive to explorative walking.
Go Local and Explore by Bicycle
With a giddy mix of cycling lanes, shared bus and bike lanes, and bike-only streets, Bordeaux is an incredibly bike-friendly city. TBM’s public bike-sharing scheme V3 is cheap (€1.70 to register, 30 mins free, then €2 per hour) and efficient, with approximately 2000 bikes – half electric-powered – and 186 docking stations around the city. Download the TBM app to locate stations and available bikes. Alternatively, consider independent rental shops run by passionate cyclists who are ready to share insider tips and favorite itineraries.
However, keep in mind that anyone on foot will encounter an abundance of bicycles during their stay. Sharing the pedestrian promenade along the river can lead to frequent close calls. Cyclists should note: on car-free streets and pedestrian areas, the maximum speed is 20kph/12.5mph, and pedestrians always have priority.
Grab an E-Scooter to Speed Riverside with Skaters
To ensure no one misses out on the riverside fun, free-floating electric trotinettes (stand-up scooters) provide an option for transportation. Download the smartphone app to locate, pay, and unlock them. Officially, users must be at least 18, and it’s important to stick to one person per vehicle.
Rent a Car to Road-Trip Between Châteaux and Vines
There’s no need to have a car in Bordeaux. Traffic is heavy, parking is challenging, and public transport or bicycles are often faster. Nevertheless, your own ride provides the opportunity for dreamy road trips ribboned with vineyards in Médoc wine country. Car rental agencies have desks at Bordeaux airport.
A ring of 25 park-and-ride car parks (parc relais in French) around Bordeaux city center encourages motorists to park and take the bus or tram for the final leg into town. For those who insist, expect to pay around €1.80 to €2.50 per hour for metered street parking; download the Easy Park or Flowbird app to pay by smartphone.
Accessible Transportation in Bordeaux
Cobbled and stone-paved streets in medieval St-Pierre and St-Paul can be difficult for travelers with disabilities to navigate. All four tramlines and city buses are wheelchair accessible, complete with ramps to board, priority spaces, and audio and visual stop announcements during the ride.
Transport Passes
The cent-saving Bordeaux City Pass (24/48/72 hours €34/€44/€50), sold online and in various locations throughout Bordeaux, includes unlimited use of public transport and a free guided tour alongside admission to major museums.