Squashed between the Pacific Coast and Amazon Rainforest, with the Andes Mountains running down its spine, Peru is a patchwork of contrasting regions, each with its own unique landscapes and ecosystems.
While this geography makes Peru an exciting country to visit, it also makes it a challenging one to navigate. Paved roads between regions are often absent, the railway network is sparse, and most flights require a connection through Lima, the capital city.
However, don’t let the logistics discourage you – exploring this country is a real adventure and worth every minute of extra planning. Here’s our guide to getting around Peru.
Public Transport Options Are Complicated
Most travelers arrive in Peru via Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport. They are then quickly introduced to the country’s public transport as micros (buses) and combis (vans) barrel down the avenues and residential streets of the capital.
Public transport in Peru is a developing service. Therefore, road safety concerns such as erratic driving and speeding top the list, along with seemingly little organization – you’ll be hard-pressed to find a set schedule. However, it is an extremely cheap and easy way to get around.
In metropolitan cities such as Lima, Arequipa, Cuzco, and Trujillo, passengers can commute by bus to the other side of the city for less than S/4 (nearly US$1). With constant drop-offs and pick-ups, however, travelers should not expect a swift arrival to their final destination.
For instance, a 40km (25-mile) bus ride from the Comas district in the north end of Lima to Chorrillos in the south can take around two hours.
For an exceptionally local (albeit nail-biting) experience, combis are fast-driving, overly-packed vans that turn into discos at night, blaring reggaeton and illuminating the streets with their fluorescent lights.
There is no set schedule for micros or combis, and the routes are not readily available online, so ask locals waiting at the bus stop for timing and destination details. Alternatively, the cobrador (the person who assists the driver by receiving each passenger’s fare) can tell you where to get off.
Picking the Best Bus Company is Key
For longer, interregional routes, various companies offer organized coach services. This is one of the most economical ways to get around Peru. However, it is crucial to research your choice of service first as they are not all created equal.
One of the most reputable bus companies in Peru is Peru Hop, which caters specifically to tourists. The service allows passengers to hop on and off along the route, with travelers deciding how much time they want to spend at each destination. Keep in mind that the bus routes are largely limited to the south of Peru.
If you’re itching to head north to the beaches of Máncora (15 hours by bus from Lima), the quaint jungle town of Oxapampa (10 hours), or perhaps towards Huaraz (8 hours) to trek the Andes, recommended bus companies include Cruz del Sur, Oltursa, and Movil Tours.
Tip for traveling around the highlands: Buses can be significantly delayed during the rainy season (January to April), particularly in the highlands and the jungle.
Getting Around by Car Isn’t Cheap But Gives You Options
Traveling around Peru by private car can be an adventure, but should only be undertaken by those with time on their side, a forgiving budget, and the ability to be unfazed by the chaotic traffic.
Running north and south, the most important highway in Peru is the Carretera Panamericana, part of the Pan-American highway.
Long stretches of the coastal desert can become mundane at times, but look forward to stopping for fresh bread when heading south, or discovering a secluded beach en route to the north.
Rental cars are not cheap in Peru; they are more suited to short mini trips than a complete tour of the country. When renting a car, especially if heading towards the jungle or Andes, opt for a model with four-wheel drive due to the rough terrain.
Taxis and Moto-Taxis: A Cheap and Cheerful City Option
Taxis can help tourists move quickly and relatively cheaply within a city or town. Just be sure to ask locals about standard pricing to avoid inflated fares.
Lima is the most expensive city in Peru for transportation; however, compared to the US and Europe, taxis are incredibly cheap, with an average fare usually costing no more than US$4.
Taxis in major cities can be waved down on the street or ordered through a rideshare app for greater safety and consistent pricing.
In smaller jungle and highland towns, moto-taxis replace the conventional taxis and are far cheaper. Spotting these moto-taxis (Peru’s answer to Thailand’s tuk-tuks) indicates that the area has yet to be gentrified. Most rides will cost no more than S/4.
Enjoy World-Class Scenic Views from the Train
The train serves a handful of destinations within Peru, but the landscapes along these routes are impressive, making them worth planning an itinerary around.
The most famous train ride in Peru is the scenic journey to the Inca citadel, Machu Picchu. Departing from Cusco or the Sacred Valley town of Ollantaytambo, passengers can enjoy views of the Vilcanota River and the verdant valley hills mixing with the Amazon Rainforest as they approach Aguas Calientes.
From here, it’s a 30-minute bus ride to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The two rail companies for this route are PeruRail and Inca Rail, both offering various price points and levels of comfort.
For those looking to savor every transition in Peru’s geography, PeruRail’s Andean Explorer offers luxury sleeper trains between Cusco and Puno, as well as a Cusco-Puno-Arequipa route.
Moreover, the Ferrocarril Central Andino is an exceptionally thrilling ride, connecting Lima to Huancayo, reaching a height of 4782m (15,689ft) above sea level.
Move Between Regions Quickly by Air
Air travel is one of the most common and efficient ways for travelers to visit all regions of Peru. The main airline is LatAm, operating domestically and internationally.
Small domestic airlines offer cheaper prices but have limited dates and sparse destinations. Most flights between cities other than Lima require a connection in the capital city.
While planes provide a convenient way to travel, they lack the unique atmosphere found on Peru’s long-distance bus or train rides. Consequently, they are also more harmful to the environment.
Tip for arriving in Peru: Many international flights arrive in the early hours, so passengers should consider booking a nearby hotel in advance. Airport Express offers shuttle services with multiple stops throughout Miraflores and includes amenities such as free Wi-Fi.
Accessible Travel in Peru
Peru has much work to do regarding inclusive access and accommodations for travelers with mobility issues. Lima has made strides in new infrastructure, with ramps and elevators becoming more common in public places.
However, basic accessibility features like smooth sidewalks and signs in braille are sparse or nonexistent in many areas. Within Lima, the light rail does offer wheelchair access and fellow passengers are legally required to give preferential access to those with disabilities.
Useful resources for disabled travelers in Peru include Conadis, a government agency offering information and advocacy, and Apumayo Expediciones, which provides trips for travelers with mobility issues to Machu Picchu and other iconic sites.
