Returning to Japan Post-Reopening: Travel Insights
One travel writer ventured back to Japan after it reopened to foreign travelers on Oct. 11, 2022. Here’s what you need to know to plan your trip, and what it feels like on the ground.
After more than two-and-a-half years, Japan reopened its borders to individual travel on Oct. 11, 2022. Three weeks later, I touched down in the Land of the Rising Sun.
After my first visit to Japan in 2016, I fell completely in love with the country. It’s a destination that has the perfect marriage of culture, food, and dramatic landscapes, and I felt right at home from the moment I landed. After that life-changing trip, I began spending one to three months in Japan every year—until the pandemic hit.
I was last in Japan in early February 2020, right before COVID-19 really began to rear its head. I had to return to the United States earlier than expected due to a personal matter. I thought to myself, it’s okay, I’ll be back soon. Little did I know that it’d be more than two-and-a-half years until my next visit.
Reopening of Japan’s Borders
Japan held off reopening for a long time. In June, the country began to slightly loosen restrictions, allowing only escorted tour groups to visit—with a daily cap of 20,000 visitors. By September, non-guided travelers on “package tours” could enter the country. However, as of Oct. 11, 2022, everyone is welcomed into the island nation and can roam around the destination without hindrance.
Once I received word, I quickly texted my cousin and her boyfriend, and we reconfigured our schedules so that we could leave as soon as possible. After just a matter of days, we booked our flights to arrive in Tokyo on Oct. 30. Just like that, we were going back.
Entry Requirements
Japan’s borders have now completely reopened and tourists are allowed to move freely about the country. To enter, you must be fully vaccinated (including your initial vaccination course and a booster) or show proof of a negative COVID-19 PCR test taken within 72 hours of your departure flight.
Before departure, you’re also required to download the MySOS app. It’ll ask you to fill out a pre-registration form where you’ll have to answer a Fast Track questionnaire and upload photos of your passport and either your vaccination card or COVID-19 test results. The final review process took about an hour to complete, but I’d recommend doing it at least a day before you depart for peace of mind.
Travel Tips and Highlights
I used my American Airlines miles to book a flight on Japan Airlines (both are part of the One World alliance). Award flights started from 70,000 miles for a roundtrip economy ticket, which is 10,000 more points than pre-pandemic rates.
We were able to check in online but had to wait to obtain our boarding passes at the airport. At the check-in counter, the ticketing agent asked to see our passports and the MySOS app results. Once we boarded our 12:30 p.m. flight to Narita International Airport, JAL staff informed passengers that masks were required on board. The policy is strictly enforced, so much so that I saw an attendant wake up a passenger to put theirs on.
Our flight was about 75% full and arrived in Japan a few minutes before our scheduled 3:45 p.m. arrival time. Connecting passengers (heading to a second destination within Asia) were asked to stay seated while those staying in Japan deplaned. Many fliers stayed on the plane, which indicated to me that I likely wouldn’t run into too many American tourists on this trip.
How the JR Pass Has Changed
The iconic Japan Rail Pass, which allows you access to the Shinkansen (bullet trains), has been greatly improved since 2020. There’s now an option to purchase them online, which also allows you to make train reservations ahead of time. If you purchase online, you still need to pick up your actual pass and tickets at a JR office, but it allows you to plan ahead (which will come in handy once tourism is back in full force).
In addition to being able to purchase passes online, there are now also dedicated machines at train stations where you can reserve seats with your JR Pass. Furthermore, the pass is now issued as a ticket rather than a laminated booklet, allowing you to use automated turnstiles.
Bullet train costs can add up. Therefore, if you’re planning on visiting multiple destinations, the JR Pass can help you save a lot of money. The rail pass is sold in seven-, 14-, and 21-day increments and provides unlimited rides on JR trains and buses.
What It’s Like in Japan Right Now
Here’s the short answer: normal, but much less crowded. Intra-Japan tourism has always been high in the country, but there was a notable lack of Western faces on my trip, with the exception of Kyoto. There were, however, plenty of Asia-Pacific visitors.
Once we arrived at The Peninsula Tokyo, we were greeted with warm smiles. The hotel is lauded for its exemplary service, where hospitality, or omotenashi, is highly valued. After checking in, we quickly made our way to our suite that overlooked Hibiya Park and the Imperial Palace grounds.
We decided to explore the nearby Ginza shopping district and indulged in local delights. After a couple of hours of melding into the vibrant atmosphere, we returned to our suite and ordered room service, opting for ramen from the renowned Ippudo.
During our time in Tokyo, we ventured to various popular neighborhoods, sampling local favorites like chicken katsu sandwiches and sushi at Toyosu Market. We also visited teamLab Planets, an immersive digital art museum that provided a feast for the eyes.
Following our three-night stint in Tokyo, we traveled to Takayama, where we stayed at the unique Temple Hotel Zenkoji. This quaint city allowed us to taste different variations of famous Hida beef while indulging in the local food scene.
Our journey continued as we explored Kanazawa, where we sampled exquisite seafood at Omicho Market. Lastly, our visit to Kyoto included hikes through the iconic torii gates at Fushimi Inari Taisha, culminating in unforgettable experiences.
As our time in Japan neared an end, I couldn’t help but appreciate this country even more. I’m already in the midst of planning another visit, eager to explore more of this fascinating nation.
