Don’t worry, thankfully you aren’t required to properly pronounce the name of the Tsuglagkhang Complex to get inside!

Located in McLeod Ganj, just above the town of Dharamsala, India, the Tsuglagkhang Complex is the official home of the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso. This complex houses the Photang (Dalai Lama’s residence), Tibet Museum, Tsuglagkhang Temple, and Namgyal Gompa.

Tsuglagkhang is the premier attraction for visitors to McLeod Ganj as well as a pilgrimage site for Tibetan exiles. Pilgrims visit to do a circuit around the complex, spinning the prayer wheels during their walk.

Visiting Tsuglagkhang

The Tsuglagkhang Complex is located in the southwest corner of Mcleod Ganj. To reach it, walk south all the way down Temple Road. The complex features a large iron gate with signs reading “Entrance to Temple.”

You will need to pass through a security screening and bag check to access parts of the complex. Cameras and phones are allowed only when teachings are not occurring. Security will hold cigarettes and lighters until you exit. Although photography is permitted in most areas, it is not allowed inside the temple. Always travel responsibly by respecting local customs and rules.

Keep in mind that the complex serves as both a temple and residence; thus, it’s essential to show respect by maintaining a low voice and not interfering with genuine worshipers. The Tsuglagkhang Complex is open to visitors from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Tips for Inside the Temple

• Prayer wheels should always be turned in a clockwise direction as you walk around the temple area.
• Remove your shoes before entering the temple space.
• Photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple itself.

The Tibet Museum

The small Tibet Museum, located just inside the Tsuglagkhang Complex, should be your first stop during your visit to McLeod Ganj. The ground floor features poignant photos and videos about the Chinese invasion and the ongoing Tibetan struggle, equipping visitors with a deeper understanding of the local people’s situation.

The museum hosts excellent documentaries daily at 3 p.m. Make sure to check out Contact, a local publication with events, opportunities, and news from the Tibetan community. The entrance fee is Rs 5, and the museum is closed on Mondays.

Watch the Monks Debate

If you visit Namgyal Gompa inside the Tsuglagkhang Complex on an afternoon, you might witness monks engaging in lively debates. This captivating experience unfolds as monks break into small groups; one member passionately presents a point while the others listen with playful skepticism. A loud clap and stomp complete each argument, creating a spirited atmosphere. Although some debates may seem intense, they are conducted in a good-natured manner.

Do a Kora

A kora is the Tibetan Buddhist ritual of walking around a sacred site in a clockwise direction. The serene walking trail around Tsuglagkhang is not only peaceful but also offers excellent views and a beautiful temple adorned with prayer flags. Allocate about an hour to enjoy the surroundings.

Pilgrims and worshippers make a clockwise circuit of the entire Tsuglagkhang Complex. Starting from the left of the iron entrance gate, descend the hill and follow the trail to the right. You will pass through a wooded area filled with prayer flags and numerous shrines and prayer wheels before looping back up to Temple Road.

See the Dalai Lama

After being forced into exile by China in 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama made Tsuglagkhang Complex his official home. Although private audiences are mostly reserved for Tibetan refugees, there remains a chance to see the Dalai Lama during public teachings, which occur when he is in residence.

These public teachings are free and accessible to everyone; however, they do not adhere to a regular schedule. As seating is limited, it is advisable to prepare in advance and bring two passport-sized photos. For those interested in translation, bringing an FM radio with headphones can be helpful, as discussions are conducted in Tibetan. Don’t forget to bring a cup; you may have the delightful opportunity to sample free butter tea, a staple of Tibetan cuisine.

Inside and Around the Tsuglagkhang Complex

• Examine the impactful sign displaying photos of Tibetans, predominantly in their 20s or younger, who self-immolated in protest against the Chinese occupation.
• The Tsuglagkhang has a bookshop offering an excellent selection of works by the Dalai Lama as well as general texts on Buddhism.
• A small café inside the complex serves cakes and vegetarian meals.
• A souvenir shop within the complex sells flags and bracelets, with proceeds supporting Tibet.
• Temple Road, leading up from Tsuglagkhang, features an array of street stalls offering everything from antiques to imitation Western-brand clothing. Cafés with outdoor seating along Temple Road provide a great vantage point to observe the monks as they travel to and from town.