Discovering Turku, Finland
Cultural Excursion in Turku
In Finland, this destination delivers an exciting mix of culture, cuisine, and cosmopolitan appeal.
Turku isn’t a place many people know much about. Even many Finns only vaguely recognize the city of around 195,000 residents on the country’s southwestern coast. Due to its location, they sometimes refer to it as the “backside of Finland.”
Turku is Finland’s oldest city and was once its capital. However, it lost that designation in 1812 after Russia gained control of the country from Sweden during the Finnish War. As Jonathan Clements in “An Armchair Traveller’s History of Finland” mentions, Turku has “seethed in snooty resentment ever since the Russians relocated all the action to Helsinki.” Moreover, in 1827, a catastrophic fire destroyed much of the city, exacerbating its struggles for recognition.
Today, however, the people of Turku are taking pride in their city. The local tourism bureau has launched the cheeky “Kiss My Turku” campaign, generating enthusiasm that has transformed the once-sleepy Aura River, now thriving with pathways and vibrant dining options. This revitalization has led to comparisons with Paris, as Turku even stood in for the French capital in a recent film about Tove Jansson, author of the beloved Moomin books.
Culinary Delights
My visit to Turku in late June coincided with the festive time of Juhannuspäivä, or midsummer. This season brings an air of intensity, as locals embrace the delightful, longer days. In Turku, this exuberance was palpable as we strolled along the Aura River, which was bustling with life even late in the evening.
Turku has become known for its exceptional dining scene. The city boasts New Nordic cuisine, with establishments like Smör and Michelin-starred Kaskis leading the charge. Unique accommodations, like the Hotel Kakola, located in a former prison, and engaging museums such as Aboa Vetus Ars Nova showcase the city’s rich heritage. In the Turku Art Museum, visitors can appreciate the works of underrecognized Finnish women artists, like Helene Schjerfbeck.
As Turku considers itself “the food capital of Finland,” Turo Jokinen, the owner of Oobu, emphasizes the city’s culinary strengths, claiming, “Per capita, yes!”
Our exploration of Finnish cuisine began at the historic Turku Market Hall. Chef-owner Johan Hellsten of Herkkunuotta introduced us to a range of Finnish delicacies, including pickled Baltic herring and cold-smoked pike roe. The region’s culinary offerings reflect its natural abundance, featuring ingredients like zesty spruce shoots and fresh fish.
Exploring the Turku Archipelago
Turku serves as the gateway to the Turku Archipelago, an impressive chain of islands adorned with rugged landscapes and charming cottages. After a scenic drive and ferry crossings, we settled into the Hotel Nestor on the island of Korpo. Run by chef William Helmgren, formerly of the Michelin-starred Frantzén in Stockholm, the inn features a delightful New Nordic tasting menu.
During our island hopping, we cycled, hiked, and kayaked, immersing ourselves in the serene Nordic environment. On Nagu, we enjoyed a sail on the restored workboat, Tacksamheten, led by Sami Uotinen, surrounded by the stunning scenery and timeless architecture of Finland.
Turku invites travelers into a world where relaxation and nature take precedence. Jokinen noted the distinction between the Finnish mindset and that of American visitors, emphasizing the joys of simply being present and appreciating the tranquility of the archipelago.
A version of this story first appeared in the February 2023 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “Time for Turku.”
