Fabienne Fong Yan worked in the first coffee shop to ever open on Hanoi Train Street and saw what life was like along the tracks before Instagram changed everything.
Once just a neglected street with train tracks running through the middle, Hanoi Train Street became a tourist hotspot thanks to a single café that piqued travelers’ interest. Two years later, it was one of the most famous spots in Vietnam. However, the excitement came to an abrupt end in October 2019 when local authorities shut it down.
Before the Hype: A Neglected Hidden Gem
When I first stumbled upon Train Street in 2017, there were no cafés or plastic stools—just a quiet ambiance and a few elders chatting on their doors. Despite being located minutes away from the bustling Old Quarter, this area went unnoticed by most in Hanoi.
Living conditions were far from ideal for the families present there, who faced the daily challenge of trains passing their home. The area’s initial perception was dark and neglected, devoid of the glamour later portrayed on social media.
How Do You Live with a Train on Your Doorstep?
Thao Quach, the visionary behind The Railway Hanoi café, opened the first coffee shop along the tracks despite its anonymity. Our friendship grew as I volunteered in the café, transforming my routine into an immersive experience of local life.
Serving drinks and guiding travelers on culinary tours became a passion, although the locals viewed my presence with skepticism. With no running water during the day and tiny houses accommodating multiple generations, life along the Train Street was a constant challenge.
A Lesson of Persistence and Community Love
Thao aimed to connect foreign volunteer teachers with local children in need of English lessons, fostering a bridge between travelers and the community. She shared stories of long-time residents, highlighting the deep connections that existed long before the tourists arrived.
The children, including the endearing Ngoan and An, quickly became friends as they embraced the novelty of our café and shared their laughter and stories, intertwining our lives with the community.
The Rise and Fall of Hanoi Train Street
By early 2019, Hanoi Train Street gained international attention as a favorite photographic opportunity. Travelers flocked to capture glimpses of the train passing through, as hashtags surged on Instagram. However, with newfound popularity came exploitation; business interests began to overshadow the community.
Upon my return from vacation in May 2019, the street had transformed drastically with new cafés. Families were already being pushed out; the very essence of the neighborhood seemed to evaporate.
In October 2019, the local government ordered the shutdown of the area due to concerns over safety, leaving a lasting impact on the residents’ way of life.
What’s the Future for Hanoi Train Street?
As authorities blocked access to the once-vibrant street, residents expressed feelings of confinement and nostalgia. Changes loomed over the community as the future of Train Street remained uncertain.
Amidst negotiations and plans, the fate of this beloved street could determine the path of its vibrant culture and community relationships. It’s vital that the local families’ voices are heard in discussions about the future of Hanoi Train Street, representing the heart that beats within its confines.
